94 XJ Lugnut Nightmare!
I can deal with a couple bucks but no way am I paying for what they screwed me on. And he is a good friend so I hope we just work it out.
He has all the welding equipment and whatever you can think of. And they can get it done. Perhaps the only ones who can. So I am gonna text him tonight and talk to him tomorrow. I am done.
He has all the welding equipment and whatever you can think of. And they can get it done. Perhaps the only ones who can. So I am gonna text him tonight and talk to him tomorrow. I am done.
I have been around auto tradesmen long enough to know that the word psycopath comes into play...no offence to mechanics..i upset one last time i said that lol
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: NJ
Year: 1994/ 96 engine
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight 6 Baby!
So I drove her to the mechanic...droppped her off. I bought 10 new lugnuts just for them to put on if/when they get the old ones off. He said worse case they will just melt them....I was like whatever you gotta do man. Bought 3 new studs just for them in case. I was gonna buy 5 but that is all autozone had at the time. It is in their hands now. Aside from all this here is what really made me crazy in the head. She still drives so nice and has plenty of power, shifts great, brakes well(obviously)....and I gotta dump her cause the engine is gonna crash at any time really. So unfair. Really upset me when I was driving her to the mechanic. Now I got 2 other monsters with their own problems I have to deal with. If only I had gotten the right engine my XJ would be my full second daily. Life really messes us up sometimes. Anyway I will let you guys know how the get the nuts off....they will....they are crazy mechanics. I also told em to put anti-seize on the new ones and make sure they dont overtighten them. So that is your update. Drives great, grinding metal, may not be worked on until Monday. I miss my baby.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
How is he going to melt them off with aluminum wheels? He'll wind up buying you new wheels!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 635
From: Hangover, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
it is specified that the mating surface be dry, as this maintains the clamping force, so it can only used on the thread very sparingly and carefully indeed
most mechanics wont do it...or use a torque wrench for lug nuts
a mate of mine who owns buses also owns a Snap On 3/4" Torque wrench to do them all by hand..he goes insane with rage if the tyre joint uses the imapact gun to tighten them
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: NJ
Year: 1994/ 96 engine
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight 6 Baby!
I think you guys are overthinking this. just let them do their thing and we shall see the outcome. I dont need new hubs or bearings or anything but it would be nice to salvage the rotors. And I did want the tires and rims intact. All I can do is see how they deal with it. I have seen them do amazing things. SO...I am just gonna chill and see how it goes.. I suggest we all do the same. But thank you for your concern!!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 635
From: Hangover, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 535
Likes: 101
From: Northern Indiana
Year: 2000, 1991
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Anxious to see the outcome. Hoping for the best for you DCWinter. What a pain.
For the future benefit of others that may look at this post to learn something, my preference is to first break a bolt free with a breaker bar. Put that big impact wrench down. With an impact wrench you don’t get a feel if the threads are galling, which is basically when metal is pulled from the threaded mating surfaces and jams everything up. Sometimes you can get through a galling situation by working the mating parts back and forth slowly, loosening then tightening a fractional turn along with some penetrating fluid or oil. Heat initially is your enemy in this situation. You do not want to run the fastener fast enough to build up excessive heat as this can contribute to galling. If nothing moves a trick I have had success with is to use a breaker bar with a jack under the handle, applying force to try to loosen the fastener. Using the weight of the vehicle is a lot easier than killing yourself trying to muscle it off. Typically something will break free, but it might be your tools.
Unless otherwise specified, when installing fasteners to a specified torque value a good rule is to make sure the threads are clean and dry. Use a wire brush or a thread restorer. (never a tap/die). Poor condition threads increase the chance that things will jam up. Typically, but not always, the manufacture intends the fastener to be installed without oil or anti seize on the thread. For those interested in the technical aspect, oil and anti-seize act as a lubricant to the threads and this reduces the apparent torque as indicated by your torque wrench or torque limiting device. If you torque to a spec that was intended to be dry but you have lubricated the fastener you will be over torqueing. In reality the 15% to 25% over-torque that can be achieved with a lubricated fastener interface probably does not make any difference for an automotive application, but it is something to be aware of. I am sure some have encountered fasteners such as head bolts from some manufactures that specify a torque angle or torque to yield approach. The reason is that that approach is more accurate and it gets around the lubricated thread torque error.
For the future benefit of others that may look at this post to learn something, my preference is to first break a bolt free with a breaker bar. Put that big impact wrench down. With an impact wrench you don’t get a feel if the threads are galling, which is basically when metal is pulled from the threaded mating surfaces and jams everything up. Sometimes you can get through a galling situation by working the mating parts back and forth slowly, loosening then tightening a fractional turn along with some penetrating fluid or oil. Heat initially is your enemy in this situation. You do not want to run the fastener fast enough to build up excessive heat as this can contribute to galling. If nothing moves a trick I have had success with is to use a breaker bar with a jack under the handle, applying force to try to loosen the fastener. Using the weight of the vehicle is a lot easier than killing yourself trying to muscle it off. Typically something will break free, but it might be your tools.
Unless otherwise specified, when installing fasteners to a specified torque value a good rule is to make sure the threads are clean and dry. Use a wire brush or a thread restorer. (never a tap/die). Poor condition threads increase the chance that things will jam up. Typically, but not always, the manufacture intends the fastener to be installed without oil or anti seize on the thread. For those interested in the technical aspect, oil and anti-seize act as a lubricant to the threads and this reduces the apparent torque as indicated by your torque wrench or torque limiting device. If you torque to a spec that was intended to be dry but you have lubricated the fastener you will be over torqueing. In reality the 15% to 25% over-torque that can be achieved with a lubricated fastener interface probably does not make any difference for an automotive application, but it is something to be aware of. I am sure some have encountered fasteners such as head bolts from some manufactures that specify a torque angle or torque to yield approach. The reason is that that approach is more accurate and it gets around the lubricated thread torque error.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: NJ
Year: 1994/ 96 engine
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight 6 Baby!
No I get where you are coming from. However my XJ was no longer on the road and not insured. And it was more like I thought I could do it myself but it turned into a death spiral. I like to fix things and I like a challenge. I never expected the lugs to be well you know....evil. Also I took the XJ off the street cause the rod bearings(at least one) are shot and causing massive internal grinding. So the engine could call it quits at any time. So I had many reasons to try it on my own. But I convinced my insurance company to give me temporary coverage and the registration expires in a month. So that is why I finally took her out to the mechanic. Did you ever work on something and you think you are about to fix it and it just gets worse? That kept happening. I certainly learned a ton from this experience. And maybe others will too with all the great suggestions in this thread. I am afraid Dave might be right..they may end up melting the rims. Oh well we shall see!
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: NJ
Year: 1994/ 96 engine
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight 6 Baby!
How come I never get any likes? Does everything I say suck? I gave out likes all over this thread. I suppose this is not a facebook thing....hahahah...But if I say something relevant I would love a like! That is all for now...After tomorrow we will know what the mechanics had to do....Tomorrow evening is the full update....
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There ya go, buddy! I never expected or asked for likes and look what happened to me! I don't do Facebook or Twitter or any other social media except for this forum and it's enough for me to pass on my knowledge and experiences this way. I've seen and done a bunch of S*** in my day and would like to not have other people go thru what I have. Enough said.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
No, I was just expounding on the virtues of passing on knowledge. I'm not looking for praise or recognition or anything like that. I just gave you a like because I like you! LOL! And the way you think.
Wait until the guys start ribbing you about something! Originally I got hot under the collar when they'd start their stuff, but I learned it's just their way of saying they like you. It's just one of the things that makes this forum so great. It never gets nasty like some I can think of.
Wait until the guys start ribbing you about something! Originally I got hot under the collar when they'd start their stuff, but I learned it's just their way of saying they like you. It's just one of the things that makes this forum so great. It never gets nasty like some I can think of.
Last edited by dave1123; Aug 18, 2019 at 05:18 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 279
From: United Kingdom
Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
".After tomorrow we will know what the mechanics had to do....Tomorrow evening is the full update.... "
Let her rip. Got plenty of popcorn (might need to make a beer run though as the night's still young).
Let her rip. Got plenty of popcorn (might need to make a beer run though as the night's still young).






