Hello all fellow XJ owners. I got my cherokee a while back, it was running but eventually blew a headgasket. so i did a whole rebuild on the motor. Its a 93 country with the 4.0 HO, Automatic.
My question is what is the timing for the drive plate? Because i think i might have put it in wrong, cause my cherokee will very roughly start and just die immediately. Keeping in mind it ran beautifully before.
I triple checked my timing and everything. Dizzy, spark plug wires, timing marks. Even CPS and it was none of that.
My only thought is the drive plate. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Im new to XJ's been in the Honda game for couple years now. I need her running lol
My question is what is the timing for the drive plate? Because i think i might have put it in wrong, cause my cherokee will very roughly start and just die immediately. Keeping in mind it ran beautifully before.
I triple checked my timing and everything. Dizzy, spark plug wires, timing marks. Even CPS and it was none of that.
My only thought is the drive plate. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Im new to XJ's been in the Honda game for couple years now. I need her running lol
tjwalker
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- Join DateNov 2010
- LocationIn the middle of Minnesota!
- Posts:5,840
- Year1999
- ModelCherokee
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I believe that the 93 still has a "ballast resistor". This is a resistor designed to reduce noise on the fuel pump circuit.
When it is bad, the symptom is that the engine will start (ballast resistor is bypassed momentarily when key is in the crank position), but the engine will die shortly after releasing the key.
This is a cream colored resistor, probably on the fenderwell of the drivers side; not sure exactly.
To troubleshoot this, simply bypass it with a piece of wire across both connections. It is safe to do this as later models don't even have this and the fuel pump can safely run with full voltage.
If that checks out, then I would concentrate on indexing your distributor. You could be 180 degrees out...........
When it is bad, the symptom is that the engine will start (ballast resistor is bypassed momentarily when key is in the crank position), but the engine will die shortly after releasing the key.
This is a cream colored resistor, probably on the fenderwell of the drivers side; not sure exactly.
To troubleshoot this, simply bypass it with a piece of wire across both connections. It is safe to do this as later models don't even have this and the fuel pump can safely run with full voltage.
If that checks out, then I would concentrate on indexing your distributor. You could be 180 degrees out...........
Thanks for the info. I do not think it was fuel related cause it ran before just fine. And it sounds like its not firing in order at all when it starts. But i checked the resistor an it checked out good.
Timed the distributor twice and it checked out good following to the haynes manual. And that checked out good. Im really thinking its this drive plate.
Im wondering if there is a 'correct' way to put it on as far as timing??
Timed the distributor twice and it checked out good following to the haynes manual. And that checked out good. Im really thinking its this drive plate.
Im wondering if there is a 'correct' way to put it on as far as timing??

Its boltet to the rear of the crankshaft, is the plate with huge outer gear for the starter to engage and also bolts up to the torque converter.
I guess I have also heard it called the flex plate as well. But that didn't sound correct to me. lol
I guess I have also heard it called the flex plate as well. But that didn't sound correct to me. lol
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I guess I have also heard it called the flex plate as well. But that didn't sound correct to me. lol
Ok got it, when you wrote flex plateOriginally Posted by homebuilt503
Its boltet to the rear of the crankshaft, is the plate with huge outer gear for the starter to engage and also bolts up to the torque converter.I guess I have also heard it called the flex plate as well. But that didn't sound correct to me. lol
So is it possible to put the flex plate on wrong? I know on the manual the cps gets its signal off of the flywheel,
Did you mark the flex plate in relation to the crankshaft before taking it apart?
Is it flex plate or drive plate? Anyways if anybody knows any information on whether or not there is a correct way to put it on, it would be very helpful! 









