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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hello all. Air not coming out as cool as it should. I will check for leaks, but how would I check for freon level? I have gauges. Which would be the way to hook gauges up and which gauge am I looking at to indicate charge level. Thanks!
There should be a small glass window in the top of the dryer. You might need to clean any dirt, grease, oil, etc. With the ac on MAX, allow it to runs for a few minutes, then look for bubbles in the window. Bubbles mean you're low. DO NOT attempt to fill based on the bubbles. You need to use the manifold gauges to properly fill.
Sorry late rep. It now has 134a, not r12 anymore. I actually borrowed recharge hose and plugged into low side port (service valve, with blue dust cap on it) and gauge needle went up to just between white and green color shade. Now, I know this compressors have those service valves where you have to turn clock and counter clock to open or close. Right now it's supposed to be in closed position. I think has to be open to recharge but not sure which of the two services valves to open and which way to turn?
If the r-134a adapters have Schrader valves, there no real need to close the ports (back seat). If closed, turn clockwise until it stops while counting the turns. Then back out half the turns to get to the "test" position. The fact that you already read something on the gauge says the ports already open.
Thanks! So the adapters should have Schrader valves im sure. Will double check. But regardless , valves does need to be opened position to charge correct? Will test position also work to charge, or do put it in test position to check freon level? It did give me that reading with charge hose, but I did confirm the valve is in closed position. So if in closed position, should it give me a reading?
Also, if there still some freon in system, can I pull vacuum to see if it holds and confirm if there is leak? Or, does system need to be completely free of freon and other things before pulling vacuum? I think I may have my concepts mixed up.
Upon visual inspection, touching, feeling around, noticed moisture on that pipe. Thinking it's normal ? When ac running, feels cold so could be regular condensation and not a leak necessarily?
The "Mid/test" position is the check pressure, charge and evacuate position.
With no Schraders, you need to "back seat" the valves to close the ports BEFORE you disconnect the manifold set or you'd lose all the refrigerant. Likewise, you connect the manifold first (make sure manifold valves are closed), then open the service ports to the Mid position. Since R-134a ports have schraders, you could leave the service ports in the Mid position. Sounds like the low side is already open, check the high side one too. If you do decide to close them (backseated) when done, make sure you open them when servicing the next time or the gauge won't read anything.
"Front seated" isolates the compressor for servicing the compressor without evacuating/releasing the refrigerant in the rest of the system.
Evacuating pulls a vacuum so any refrigerant left will get drawn out along with any air and moisture. You don't have "Freon (R-12)" (ozone depleting and green house gas) any more being 134a but R-134a is still a green house gas so try not to vent too much.
On your expansion valve, if it's just water then you're correct, it's just condensation.
...OK, so i opened valve, clockwise, and turned car on and ac, and was not blowing cold air. Compressor did turn on. So then I closed valve again, and now blowing cool air. I guess by opening, I shut pathway of freon circulation? As I'm facing the valves, I turn towards right , clockwise, to open, or that's what I'm thinking. To close it, I turn left, counter.. ? Not sure now what position to charge freon.
Ok thanks. I guess backseating (fully counter clock turns until it stops) means for regular ac operation; allows freon to circulate. Full clockwise is to shut everything down and not loose freon and such if removing or doing major work on compressor; does not allow freon to circulate. That explains why air was not coming out cool. I retightened all joints and backplate bolts..some joints and backplate bolts had some moisture and maybe allowed for small leaks. Gone recharge and see what happens.
Put two cans of freon. The gauge still showing low, just like it at the beginning. See pic. The air is coming out much colder. The low side pipe is sweating, see pic. Not sure if I should add more?
Upon turning car off with service valve in testing position, gauge did go up..see pic. But then after setting valve back again, gauge again showing empty. Just mentioning these things in case releveant..I think it's just still low...but don't want to overfill. How would I know it's got enough freon? Showing needle in green area