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90 renix long crank did the basics already??

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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
Post 90 renix long crank did the basics already??

Well i cleaned all the grounds already.. and i cleaned all the sensors... i also cleaned the fuel injectors and the TB and my tune up is not that old... this just happened over night... I also have good spark and fuel any suggestions?
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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How long is long? Mine (88) takes a bit maybe 15/20 seconds. I thought it was just normal. LOL.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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When you say you "cleaned the fuel injectors" what do you mean? Sometimes if a fuel injector is "leaking down" (i.e. stuck open) it will cause a long crank problem.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
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Originally Posted by Programbo
When you say you "cleaned the fuel injectors" what do you mean? Sometimes if a fuel injector is "leaking down" (i.e. stuck open) it will cause a long crank problem.
it had this problem when they were dirty if they were dirty.. i ran the car with the fuel injector machine i forget what its called... and there was no change... how can i check for a fuel injector is stuck open?
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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mine takes about 4-6 seconds OH YEAAH
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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Same here 4-6 sec
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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from day 1 mine always took about 10seconds to start with giving her a little gas, just thought it was because the crank sensor had to realize the engine was turning over lol
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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LOL oh, the love it takes to enjoy your renix...
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rooster
it had this problem when they were dirty if they were dirty.. i ran the car with the fuel injector machine i forget what its called... and there was no change... how can i check for a fuel injector is stuck open?
The only way to really tell is to get the fuel pressure up and pull the fuel rail right away (leaving the fuel line attached). You'll see if one of the injectors is dripping a bit.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:11 AM
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Farten around last week I pulled the plug on my cam sensor (CMP sensor) on my 90 just to see how it ran. Drove it that way for a day or so. The only clear difference was it would fire in about 5 seconds instead of the usual 4or so. (hitting on about the 7th rev instead of the 5th.) If yours DIDN'T take longer unplugged you might suspect (that.) Found this test if you feel like getting tecky with an analog meter.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...lse_Stator.htm

Guess if fuel pressure is dropping more than 20lbs in 1/2 an hour it's leaken somewhere, or bleeding back past the check valve. Don't see why you couldn't pressurize the rail with it out, with the injector clips in. Wish I'd have tried it last month when I had mine off since suspecting a leaky injector myself. If your injectors fire out of the clips at "high V" and fuel goes everywhere, let us know, OK?
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:17 AM
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I've beaten this one to death, so I'm just going to say to search for it (on any of several boards.)

This is "normal" for RENIX, due to the way they system is programmed. Longer-than-normal crank times (like you're experiencing) are typically caused either by flaky sensor signals, starter motor wear, or contaminated mains connexions - which makes it take longer to crank to starting speed.

But, I've gone into causes, diagnosis, and repair enough that I honestly don't want to type it all out again...
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:18 AM
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You have a Renix XJ (87-90) By design, the engine is not going to fire until the computer (ECU) gets a signal from the crankshaft position sensor and measures that signal to indicate that 300 rpms while cranking has been met/exceeded.

Somewhat extended crank times should be considered a “characteristic” of your engine, rather than a problem. However, there are a few things you can verify to ensure a "relatively" quick start.

You can upgrade the battery and battery cables--at least 4 ga., 2 ga. better--and buy a high-torque starter.

Be sure that all grounds are good. Remove them and freshen them. You cannot tell if the grounds are electrically good by looking at them! Renix vehicles are very sensitive to ground issues.

Your CPS can be a bit weak, too. Unplug it and probe the two wires with your meter set on AC volts. You should get .5 as a reading. Anything down around .35 will cause long crank times and possible intermittent no-starts.

Other than that, performing basic tune-ups on a regular basis is important, (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter) The importance of a solid secondary ignition (tune up parts) cannot be overstated. Fresh Champion copper plugs gapped to .035, new quality plug wires, cap and rotor with brass contacts.

Good luck!
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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Mine starts right at 4 seconds when its cold. 3 when warm. I guess im lucky on my renix start times hehe.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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Rooster, have you ever checked the AC voltage output of your CPS? .5 or better while unplugged and cranking.

Did you follow my write-up when doing the grounds, and possibly add a couple?

Your sync generator or stator as it's called also, inside the dizzy could be bad as Flintstone mentions. Even if he calls it by the wrong name just to irritate me.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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My crank sensor is acting up. I still start and run OK at a .03 so I suppose the wire connections between there and THE ECU must be pretty good.

My sincerer thanks to Cherokeeforum and all or you who have been helping me catch up on this old technology! (you know who you are) HAPPY NEW YEAR!!.
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