So you're saying D7 has ground, but 37 ohms through jumper cables?

Gone to bed.

 

All I have is I used my cables to check the two blacks at the tcu plug. Did get continuity but with resistance, likely my cables. Best I can see is there is nothing in the plug next to the tan orange. Much thanks!

 

Later I saw this post. I'm adding that I didn't back-probe D7, yet.

I did see that the engine side is less than an ohm, and set the TPS to my 17%, .82.

 

Pete, I gotta say, I missed a good bit if your posts. I THOUGHT I was following, but re-reading I now see I missed things. I was dealing with it coming in and going out and not following exactly what you suggested.

Some facts remain :

I need good light and the right glasses to identify the TCU pin-out, which I don't have. I have the 1 demoniacal diagram. (there's two rows) That might be nice to add to the diagrams in my sig.

Btw, anyone unfortunante enough to be following this, the TPS for the engine side might show up in the regular diagram, but the trans side might be separate, in a different diagram. They are together on the TB/TPS, but maybe not in the diagrams. I did find it, below--VV

They use the same "lever" to move , but the grounds and the outputs are different. I think I noticed a difference on the ECU feed as well. (tad over 5 for trans side, tad under on engine side)

Soooo just no ground on the B of the trans plug, no continuity anything .

Right here under "heating and air conditioning" on page 5 is some TCU stuff. more later rrrrrrrr!!

 

Crimeny G williciers! I'm gonna call backprobing F7 somewhat difficult!

1.1 ohm. With a long phone wire on the neg post.

 

Btw, the PO needed to replace the TCU.

 

Backprobing means connecting the neg lead of your meter to a known good ground near the tCU in the cabin and probing the connector to the tCU through the back while plugged in. Key OFF.

Don't add any other wire/cable into the mix. Meter leads only.

Wear your glasses so you can see the letter designations on the connector.

 

These are 2 examples of back probing.

Geez flintstone, still in bed?

 

Yea, thanks, did it correctly. (paper clips I smoothed on a knife stone). I used battery negative as "known good ground", hence a piece of wire.

It seems pretty odd I have no continuity on the wire from B to D3, AND no ground there on the D3 terminal on the TCU.

I'll get after it some more...thinken I might just ground it through a diode. HA, I just realized I have a couple hundred of them that emit light!


(I'll fit them on the foil hat I wear, only when shifting!)

 

So no continuity in the wire from B to the harness connector with the tan/orange wire?

D3 at the tCU when backprobed has no ground?

What about D7 backprobed?

 

Right, right. Yea, I mentioned in post#35 at 2AM I got about an ohm backprobing a lone black wire/terminal I believe to be D7.

I'm going over it again. Went to a "keger party" yesterday. Only here the keg is full of Black Velvet and all the gals are packen iron!

 

OK, my "A" is red. "B" is white/black stripe. The 3'rd, presumably "C" is guess what, tan/orange stripe, and DOES have continuity to D3.

 

On the trans side, C, the tan/orange is the ground, it seems, as opposed to the middle B of the flat engine side being the ground.

So...besides no ground at the TCU, I also get no sweep, or change in (.6-.8) volts from This B, (whiteish/black stripe), moving the throttle, even if I jump C to ground.

Guess I'll talk to my JY guy first, see what he has. Looks like both the TCU AND TPS have issues.

Ironically besides having a fit one night last week it seems to be driving fine!
I'll double check that it's "kicking down" like it should. Maybe I'm missing something. All the wires have continuity, and one TCU ground is checked and good.

Gonna check that C5 "shift point logic" ground before I wrap it up.

C5 is grounding fine.

One "take-away" here. It seems "C" is the ground (unlabeled as far as I see), "A" is the feed, and "B" is the return to the TCU. Thinking B was the ground (like the engine side), cost me allot of wasted time and energy!

 

Renix TPS, Local, (standard), about $60 , aftermarket new on Ebay $15 shipped. My local Jy guy wants 10 or $15 (without knowing Ebay beat Rock auto's $30 + shipping) So do I twist a friends arm down to $7.50, go with the new "after market" from ebay?

Has anyone else found that the Orange/tan, (the one NOT stamped A or B on the square connector, is grounded?)(back probing from it to battery negative?) In the Diagram above it grounds through D3 on the TCU)
Mine on my 90 Renix doesn't. That makes testing/adjusting the trans side of my TCU an issue of course.

My wires are wrong, or the diagram, or my interpretation of the test......I thought I was wrong but might be mistaken..

 

My head is hurting now. Please just answer the questions below.

TCU plugged in. Key off.

Backprobing D3. Continuity to ground?

Backprobing D7. Continuity to ground?

Backprobing C5. Continuity to ground?