lualchro

hello

My 89 cherokee 4.0 uses LPG as fuel, as in my country LPG is priced a lot cheaper than gasoline

I'm already running only LPG as fuel, no gasoline at all, and that get me to think on the posibility to remove anything that is not needed.

Thinking on removing all the electronics and gasoline related components, however I'm still using the ECU to control the spark.

Has anyone installed a stand alone distributor, something like the Chevy or Ford HEI distributors that only need 12V from ignition to operate?

Any reply will be greatly appreciated!!!

lualchro

I know no one responded on this topic, and most likely most of the members will not be interested, but for someone in the same situation as I was, this information can be handy.

As explained before, my 89 4.0 Cherokee runs strictly on LPG, and I was on the search for a standalone distributor that had everything needed (pickup signal, trigger and coil) already on it.

Found one on ebay (I know ebay sometimes sold crappy things) the seller list this as compatible with Cherokee, although it only needs 12V to work. Also noted that it uses a GM style CAP, rotor and coil

175 RS14 DISTRIBUTOR AMC JEEP 232 258 4.0 4.2 GM HEI UPGRDE 6 CYL COIL INCLUDED

Ordered and leave it on the shelf for a few weeks, did not have any rush on installing it until the CPS took a dump on me, and as many have experienced, it started delaying the start time, until it did not start at all.

That was the time I decided to install the new Distributor, thought I will spend less time installing the new one than cleaning up the CPS, and anyway I was using the factory electronics only for spark delivery, as the fuel injectors were disconnected.

Followed Cruiser's guide to have piston #1 and TDC, rotor pointing to post 1, and removed the old unit. Compared the body and shafts of the old and new ones, same thing, however the head of the new one was bigger by a lot!!!

Installed the new one, had to play a bit to make sure the oil pump was engaged to the distributor shaft correctly, installed the new cap and then the spark plug wires, as for wiring there is only two of them to hook up to the harness, 12 V (yellow on my 89 Renix from the Coil connector) and Tach (brown on the same connector) played a bit to find the right timing and done, started right up, no more slow starts, and no more CPS to clean ever!

As my LPG delivery does not take into account any electronics or sensors I'm in the process of cleaning the engine from unnecessary (to me) wiring, all going to CPS, Knock, TPS, IAC and so on! and also removing the gas tank (will fit another LPG tank there for added range)

Will share pictures of the new distributor fitted, and soon will share pictures of the clean engine area.

Hopefully this will be useful to someone else besides me!

cruiser54

Cool. I think the reason you got so little response is not because nobody wanted to help, but we don't have the LPG option on this side of the pond. I'd like to see more about it since I work for a propane company!!

lualchro

Hi all, and sorry for such a long delay on replying

Here's a couple of pictures showing my jeep's engine bay.
As you can see there is a standalone distributor, that just have two wires attached to it: 12V and the Tach signal, and also you will see on the second picture that the engine is running only on LPG, I already removed some components needed on the gasoline setup like the computer, big portion of the harness, fuel pump resistor, fuel tank, etc, and still have some others to remove!

I only run LPG as fuel as LPG is less that half the price of the gasoline in my country.

Well, sorry again for such a bit time gap in replying, but here the pictures.

Radi

That motor should run forever on LP. It amazed me how clean the motors and motor oil stayed with LPG fuel, I used to run it in the '70's on a pickup truck. It was a simple conversion on a carb'd motor. Probably can toss all the emission stuff and still run clean too. Thanks for the pics!

odgreen

That's really awesome.... I want to do the lpg conversion.

cruiser54

I've driven a propane powered propane delivery bobtail for over 80,000 miles. At 207K, we put a factory reman engine in it.

Keep in mind that 207K is the equivalent of 414K because of all the PTO pumping time. The inside of that engine had no sludge at all. Rotella T3 all it's life also.

lualchro

I'm in the process of removing everything I'm not using!
Already removed the computer and all the wires attached to it, will remove sensors, TPS, Idle motor, etc, just need to find / make the right caps!
Also will remove the fuel injectors and the rail, also need to get something that sits appropiately to avoid any air / vacuum leak
My main LPG tank is mounted on the cargo area behind the rear seat, and I can drive for around 165 miles with that fuel capacity, however I want some more driving range, that's why I got a secondary tank, that fits nicely on the OEM gasoline tank location (already replaced it) just need to do the plumbing to get the extended range I want (probably around 280 miles for full tanks)

Will post pictures of the LPG tanks later today.

In regards to the cleanness of the oil / engine, it is so good to take the oil out and be able to see a caramel color, instead of the black sluggish color I usually took out, I change oil at regular intervals, same as I used to do with gasoline, as the oils we get in my country are not specific for LPG (some say that OIL meant for LPG engines can run for about 7000 miles or so)

For fuel economy, currently I'm doing 13.5 MPG, which is really good for the roads in my country, my jeep only sees city streets with lots of speed bumps and holes in the pavement, so the driving here is stop and go all the time, 13,5 for a 4.0 engine in this conditions is pretty good.

Thanks a lot to all