87 Intake air Temp Sensor
05-29-2014, 05:47 PM
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Year: 1987
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87 Intake air Temp Sensor
I have a 87 Cherokee 4.0. Intake air temp sensor shows its open with ohm meter. Its part # 53004971. Dealer says no longer supported, after market stores same story. Any ideas. Thank you
05-29-2014, 06:16 PM
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Hit the JY is all I have. Did you try Napa? Btw as an experiment I swapped in a 225 ohm resistor in mine. (like 6 months ago) Now my ECU always thinks the air is warm. I'm not recommending that, but I didn't like the readings I got from mine so I gave it a shot, seems to work fine. Might be in sub freezing or sub zero I might have trouble, Idk.
If you click on that link in my sig, right on top is a link to Cruisers tips. You might want to take a look. (I bet your c-101 is grungy!)
If you click on that link in my sig, right on top is a link to Cruisers tips. You might want to take a look. (I bet your c-101 is grungy!)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-29-2014 at 06:19 PM.
05-29-2014, 07:12 PM
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Bet? Anyway, JY, (Junk Yard) idem then.
Edit. Oh! the C101...Cool. Guess allot of 87-88 owners don't even know they have one.
Edit. Oh! the C101...Cool. Guess allot of 87-88 owners don't even know they have one.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-29-2014 at 08:18 PM.
. I read and aplied Cruiser's tips.
05-29-2014, 08:38 PM
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Too funny.. I was posting my edit at 6:18 as you responded at 6:19. (sort of low odds there). Anyway I looked on Rockauto. Skunked there as well.
Btw, mine, it seemed maybe the copper wire flexed too much and broke right where it comes out of the sensor. (hence erratic readings), If I cared I might chop it right there and see if I could solder on to the stubs. Yours being "open" would be consistent with that. Mine feels wrong.
Btw, mine, it seemed maybe the copper wire flexed too much and broke right where it comes out of the sensor. (hence erratic readings), If I cared I might chop it right there and see if I could solder on to the stubs. Yours being "open" would be consistent with that. Mine feels wrong.
05-29-2014, 10:50 PM
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I was trying to be funny I'm glad you took it that way. I'll go get a used one tomorrow. I think also a latter year might work, the connections will be wrong but I think that won't be too hard to change. Thanks again
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05-29-2014, 11:59 PM
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All's well. Was saying...see the time on my edit on post #4? I got up from a nap and started typing at about the exact same time you were. Nutty coincidence!
Anyway Cruiser and others know the NPT pipe thread size. Without even looking I agree the resistance "curve should be the same. I doubt it's even polarity sensitive. They often mount it somewhere else, in plastic even. You can plug where it was or even run that to your MAP, and eliminate the old tube.
If I thought it really did much I'd leave it in the intake.....seems to bonehead me, it is a pretty minor player. The MAP, TPS, ECT & 02 sensors are runnen the show. I'm suspicious it acts as a "cold enrichment" of old, or a choke of older. But I really don't know. If that were true, your mileage with the IAT always fully open, (open circuit, no resistance), might never clear 16, even on the freeway.
Anyway Cruiser and others know the NPT pipe thread size. Without even looking I agree the resistance "curve should be the same. I doubt it's even polarity sensitive. They often mount it somewhere else, in plastic even. You can plug where it was or even run that to your MAP, and eliminate the old tube.
If I thought it really did much I'd leave it in the intake.....seems to bonehead me, it is a pretty minor player. The MAP, TPS, ECT & 02 sensors are runnen the show. I'm suspicious it acts as a "cold enrichment" of old, or a choke of older. But I really don't know. If that were true, your mileage with the IAT always fully open, (open circuit, no resistance), might never clear 16, even on the freeway.
05-30-2014, 07:24 AM
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No longer available. Junkyard. They rarely fail.
05-30-2014, 08:56 PM
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05-31-2014, 01:02 PM
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It might work, the connection is different. Mine has a wire pigtail on it. I'll save the part number just in case I run out of options. Thank you
06-03-2014, 06:16 PM
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Update, I figured out I wasn't using the ohm meter right. It isn't open but at 200 degrees its reading 1400 ohms high a chart I have says at 212 degrees I should see 185 ohms. So I made a test plug with a 200 ohm resistor. My high speed backfire is gone (it acts like it leans out at freeway speed). If I remove the resistor and plug the iat back in the backfire comes back. I can also put tranny in low and at 3100 rpm the backfire is there and goes away with the resistor. I'll see what happens with a cold start with the resistor in, in the morning.
06-04-2014, 05:50 PM
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Update, I figured out I wasn't using the ohm meter right. It isn't open but at 200 degrees its reading 1400 ohms high a chart I have says at 212 degrees I should see 185 ohms. So I made a test plug with a 200 ohm resistor. My high speed backfire is gone (it acts like it leans out at freeway speed). If I remove the resistor and plug the iat back in the backfire comes back. I can also put tranny in low and at 3100 rpm the backfire is there and goes away with the resistor. I'll see what happens with a cold start with the resistor in, in the morning.
If you're really thrifty, you could buy three resistors and hook them up with a multi-position switch to give you the three most common temperatures for where you live: Maybe 25,000 for winter, 5000 for spring/fall and 1500 for summer!
But really, get one from a junk yard-They don't usually go bad.
Last edited by 67 GMC; 06-04-2014 at 06:03 PM.