84 lift...maybe?
ok needless to say im new (to the site not jeeps) (although this will be my first build)lol in about 3 to 4 weeks im buying a cherokee as of right now im lookin at an 84 that runs and drives just needs some glass *i will be lookin for some if you got extra glass* anywayi want to put a small lift just to get started and fit some bigger tiresi am looking at buying either a 2 or 3 in lift from rustys[the cheaper ones]...im sure you guys know what im talkin bout with their lifts i am wondering how tall i can go before i will need new drive shafts and someone said something about the DEATH WOBBLE? says the control arms will be extended too far with just blocking front springs or getting taller springs...idk.. i would greatly apriciate some info thanks
Q
Q
You can up to around 3.5 inches of lift without needing to replace the control arms. The drive shafts will be fine at that height also. You will need to do something with the track bar by either getting an adjustable one, installing a relocation bracket for the stock one, or redrilling the stock mount on the axle to relocate the stock one. If you plan on going through any rough offroad terrain you will want to get longer brake lines for the front and rear as well as longer shocks.
Now a question for you, does this 84 have the 4 cylinder or the 2.8 V6?
Now a question for you, does this 84 have the 4 cylinder or the 2.8 V6?
Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Dover PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Power Tech I-6
If you wanna lift your jeep you should buy new springs instead of blocks add a leafs etc. Gives better performance if you wanna keep it simple I'd say don't go higher than 3" to try & avoid SYE just remember your entire truck depends on the suspension to get you home so you shouldn't cut corners. The death wobble from what I've read is from your steering components being worn out. Tie rod ends, steering stablizer, etc plus you need to do front end alignment after lift. There's a lot of quality affordable lift kits out there I'm goin Rough Country 4.5".
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 2
From: south jersey
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok needless to say im new (to the site not jeeps) (although this will be my first build)lol in about 3 to 4 weeks im buying a cherokee as of right now im lookin at an 84 that runs and drives just needs some glass *i will be lookin for some if you got extra glass* anywayi want to put a small lift just to get started and fit some bigger tiresi am looking at buying either a 2 or 3 in lift from rustys[the cheaper ones]...im sure you guys know what im talkin bout with their lifts i am wondering how tall i can go before i will need new drive shafts and someone said something about the DEATH WOBBLE? says the control arms will be extended too far with just blocking front springs or getting taller springs...idk.. i would greatly apriciate some info thanks
Q
Q
You can up to around 3.5 inches of lift without needing to replace the control arms. The drive shafts will be fine at that height also. You will need to do something with the track bar by either getting an adjustable one, installing a relocation bracket for the stock one, or redrilling the stock mount on the axle to relocate the stock one. If you plan on going through any rough offroad terrain you will want to get longer brake lines for the front and rear as well as longer shocks.
Now a question for you, does this 84 have the 4 cylinder or the 2.8 V6?
Now a question for you, does this 84 have the 4 cylinder or the 2.8 V6?
its the 6 but im pretty sure its a inline 6.. tell me more about the track bar where could i get a good one on the cheap or how to modify what i will have on the cheap i guess you could call this another CHEAP jeep lol im lookin to get somethin to drive everyday and still play on weekends im tryin to keep miles off my dually
If it is a 6 cyl then it is the crappy GM 2.8 V6. The 4.0 inline 6 did not come in the Cherokee until 87. I would honestly look for a later model with the 4.0. They are still readily available at very reasonable prices. That 2.8 is underpowered and unreliable.
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I found my 89 that I have been working on for $350. Would not run worth crap when I first brought it home. The previous owner thought the injectors were bad because it would not stay running and died as soon as you hit the gas. Turned the idiots replaced the fuel pump and did not secure the hose in the tank properly so it slipped off. After checking all the connections and securing everything it starts right up and runs great.
I'm not saying that you should not get it but it might be worth it in the long run to wait and find something better.
I'm not saying that you should not get it but it might be worth it in the long run to wait and find something better.
I would look for something other than the 2.8.. The only good thing to do with a model that came with the 2.8 is throw a 4.3l v6 (vortec IIRC) in it, but I think that would be alot of work.
Anyway, my point is the same as what Winston is saying. Save up your money and get a nice 87-01 for cheap to fix up and have fun with. It will be alot less of a hassle than having to deal with the 2.8, they have bad carbs, vaccum leaks (IIRC) and a bunch of other problems. Not to mention 115 HP and 135 ft lb compared to the 190hp and 225 ft lbs of a HO I6.. Also, theres the fact that you have to buy glass for it.
Anyway, my point is the same as what Winston is saying. Save up your money and get a nice 87-01 for cheap to fix up and have fun with. It will be alot less of a hassle than having to deal with the 2.8, they have bad carbs, vaccum leaks (IIRC) and a bunch of other problems. Not to mention 115 HP and 135 ft lb compared to the 190hp and 225 ft lbs of a HO I6.. Also, theres the fact that you have to buy glass for it.
Last edited by 89Laredo; Jan 17, 2010 at 01:21 AM.
i hear ya im really ready for the next couple of weeks to get over with im gettin grant money from school and thats what im buyin the jeep with and im supper excited...any way with the 3 inch lift what can i do without buying a new trac bar to make it work or does anyone know if the rustys lift comes with everything i need
Lift kits do not come with track bars but some will come with new shocks. Redrilling the stock mount and moving the track bar over is the cheapest option but least desireable due to possibly weakening the mounting bracket. A relocation bracket is the next option but also increases the amount of stress on the stock mounting bracket. An adjustable track bar is the best solution and can range in cost from $120 up to $250+ depending on brand and style.
Last edited by winston427; Jan 17, 2010 at 01:33 AM.
ok and with 3inches i will need to do this....and if im increasing the distance between frame and axle why am i lowering the trac bar location sorry just somethin that doesnt make sence to me
The track bar mounts to the frame on the drivers side and to the axle on the passenger side. As the axle moves downward away from the body during a lift, the axle will move toward the drivers side. This causes the axle to be off center. The track bar needs to be longer to recenter the axle under the body.



