8.25" Pinion Yoke Install
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
8.25" Pinion Yoke Install
I want to drill my rear yoke on my 29-spline, 8.25 so I can use u-bolts as u-joint retainers.
I might as well get a new yoke while I'm at it. I know there is a crush sleeve in there to set pre-load but I don't know what for or how to check it. I also know that there are 2 diffrent yokes. one being 2.75" and one being 3". I dont know which I have but ill find out.
I need to know the torque spec for the yoke bolt itself and how to check preload and what it is exactly that being "pre-loaded" Bassically how to change the yoke by the book and do it right.
I might as well get a new yoke while I'm at it. I know there is a crush sleeve in there to set pre-load but I don't know what for or how to check it. I also know that there are 2 diffrent yokes. one being 2.75" and one being 3". I dont know which I have but ill find out.
I need to know the torque spec for the yoke bolt itself and how to check preload and what it is exactly that being "pre-loaded" Bassically how to change the yoke by the book and do it right.
#2
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What I do is to use a center punch and mark the nut and the end of the pinion at the same spot so that you can re tighten until those marks line up
I recommend red locktight on the nut when you install it for added insurance that it will not back off on you. You will need a way to hold the yoke tightly while you reset the nut to right spot
There is no torque spec for a crush sleeve, the only spec you have is your pinion bearing preload spec which is set with only the pinion installed and the spec will be "inch pounds" set with a "beam style/inch pound torque wrench"
This spec is usually 16-25 inch pounds(read while turning the pinion only(no carrier installed) with the torque wrench)
I recommend red locktight on the nut when you install it for added insurance that it will not back off on you. You will need a way to hold the yoke tightly while you reset the nut to right spot
There is no torque spec for a crush sleeve, the only spec you have is your pinion bearing preload spec which is set with only the pinion installed and the spec will be "inch pounds" set with a "beam style/inch pound torque wrench"
This spec is usually 16-25 inch pounds(read while turning the pinion only(no carrier installed) with the torque wrench)
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I forgot to add that there is a pinion spacer kit available for the 8.25, I'm running it in my trail rig so if I snap a yoke I can replace it on the trail without messing with the pinion bearing pre-load. I carry a spare yoke.
I'm also running titanium straps vs U-bolts or the stock straps.
Here is a pic of my 8.25/4.88 Nitro Gears/Yukon Alloys/Aussie/RuffStuff Truss
I'm also running titanium straps vs U-bolts or the stock straps.
Here is a pic of my 8.25/4.88 Nitro Gears/Yukon Alloys/Aussie/RuffStuff Truss
Last edited by xjtrailrider; 12-05-2011 at 10:03 PM.
#4
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Year: 1996
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So they make shims to replace the stock crush sleeve??? So if it was set up right in the first place and i just removed the sleeve and added shims i would be ok???
Ive seen the titanium straps but whats that do to help stop the bolt from sheering in the yoke???
Ive seen the titanium straps but whats that do to help stop the bolt from sheering in the yoke???
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I've sheared just as many U-bolt straps as I have strap bolts. The advantage to the titanium straps is to retain the caps better, thats about it. They are strong as hell to, I haven't snapped them yet.....
Last edited by xjtrailrider; 12-05-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Year: 1996
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I want to be able to fix a broke u joint on the trail. So thats the reason for the ubolts intead of regular straps. no more sheered bolts in the yoke itself
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Year: 1996
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I might not even change the yoke out in the 1st place. I might just drill into the yoke like the write-up says and add the u-bolts. I just figured if im drilling into the yoke might as well add a new yoke with drilled holes for the u-bolts.
I dont wanna remove my gears. Not qualified. When i re-gear and lock its going to the shop. The most ill do is add the ZJ discs. And do the u-bolt u-joint strap conversion.
I dont wanna remove my gears. Not qualified. When i re-gear and lock its going to the shop. The most ill do is add the ZJ discs. And do the u-bolt u-joint strap conversion.
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#8
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Year: 1996
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I might Lock it myself. Im deciding between a detroit or a no-slip. then just take it to a shop to have it regeared or let them lock and regear for me and save me the trouble.
Ive heard ppl have troubles getting the no-slip installed right. They install it wrong and it wont drive right or just wont lock at all. Then the paddles brake on them and the cant get the locker back out because its broken and the c-clips wont come out.
Ive heard ppl have troubles getting the no-slip installed right. They install it wrong and it wont drive right or just wont lock at all. Then the paddles brake on them and the cant get the locker back out because its broken and the c-clips wont come out.
#9
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You can safely remove the yoke on a crush sleeve as long as you carefully re-install it. You do not want to over-tighten and crush the sleeve further or under-tighten and create a loose pinion bearing pre-load. Just mark the nut to the pinion shaft and tighten it back to that spot with locktight
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I might Lock it myself. Im deciding between a detroit or a no-slip. then just take it to a shop to have it regeared or let them lock and regear for me and save me the trouble.
Ive heard ppl have troubles getting the no-slip installed right. They install it wrong and it wont drive right or just wont lock at all. Then the paddles brake on them and the cant get the locker back out because its broken and the c-clips wont come out.
Ive heard ppl have troubles getting the no-slip installed right. They install it wrong and it wont drive right or just wont lock at all. Then the paddles brake on them and the cant get the locker back out because its broken and the c-clips wont come out.
#11
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Year: 1996
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Im just worried about DD the detroit. i dont get traction coming off a red light in the rain. and i hear you shouldnt accel outta turns with a detroit.
Im not sure of the difficulty of installation either.
Im not sure of the difficulty of installation either.
#12
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Year: 1996
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I want to do the u-bolt u-joint strap conversion. I have no problem drilling into the t-case yoke because thats easy to replace once my SYE is on. So i can drill that out for u-bolts i think.
I might end up not replacing the rear yoke and just drill into it for the u-bolts and if i ever need to replace the yoke ill send it to the shop.
Are there any mods for the front axle yoke using u-bolts??? I know the rear of the front DS is the Double Cardon so that just leaves the axle side. If anything get a spare front Ds from the junkyard and put have u-joints in it for spares.
I might end up not replacing the rear yoke and just drill into it for the u-bolts and if i ever need to replace the yoke ill send it to the shop.
Are there any mods for the front axle yoke using u-bolts??? I know the rear of the front DS is the Double Cardon so that just leaves the axle side. If anything get a spare front Ds from the junkyard and put have u-joints in it for spares.
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Year: 1990
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You can do the unbolt conversion on the front yoke also depending on the type of yoke you have. I did the same thing on the front of my jeep and now I just carry spare unbolts and joints when I go wheeling.
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