Tried searching before posting new thread, didn't find anything.
Am wondering about feasibility of replacing AW-4 with 700R4. Plan to keep 4.0, I like it fine, suits my needs for all purposes. NP-231 X-fer case. This will be going in my 97XJ. Thanks,
Bob

 

The adapter kit http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/a...it_437amc5.htm You will have to mod the trans crossmember and have change out the driveshafts/have them made.But i gotta ask why do this swap?The aw4 is pretty strong and has a good enough aftermarket for it.

 

^^^ what he said. plus you'll interior mods, including a new shifter and rip out the TC computer. I used a th7004r in my build here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fin...-40255/index5/




I'm also curios as to why -- for the tq and hp numbers for the i4, the aw is perfectly good transmission. Dropping in the 7000r4 is a lot of work for not a ton of return

 

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated.
Reason I considered the 700R4 was that it has turned into a very good transmission, after getting off to a not so good start. My understanding is that it tends to produce much less heat than the AW-4, has a more consistent shift pattern, has none of the sluggishness exhibited (mine anyway) by the AW-4.
I had this trans completely rebuilt not long after buying the Jeep, it needed help badly at that time. I live in the desert not far from Phoenix, and it gets pretty hot here, adding to the already high temps developed by the AW-4. I run synthetic trans fluid, even though the rebuilder says it's a waste of $$. Now, a little over two years later, and not all that many miles (~20K), the trans is shifting funky again, slides into gear, and may not be completely locking up. I'm getting kinda weary of that kind of performance from the transmission. I'm gettin' too old (mid 70's) to hike outta the desert in hot weather, so considered the swap.
BUT............ got a response from Novak, along with a quote to provide their adapter, all shift cables, any needed bracketry, and a rebuilt (to their standards for reliability) 700R4 trans. NOT CHEAP, by any stretch of the imagination! $3500+ without shipping figured in.
So, that's probably not gonna happen.
Now I'm open for suggestions to improve the quality of the AW-4, and most likely another rebuild. Would probably NOT return to the original shop, since you gents are telling me the factory trans is up to the job, and I figure something must have gone wrong in the rebuild. Open for any and all suggestions.
Thanks,
Bob
edit: just FYI, this isn't the I4 motor, it's the 4.0, IF that makes a difference of your opinion as to whether or not the AW-4 is up to the job.

 

a trans cooler will do wonders for keeping the temp down and extending the life of it

 

Some trans rebuilding shops service the trans with a universal ATF or ATF+4, which is not what the AW4 likes. If you find that any other ATF besides Dexron III/Mercon has been put in your trans, get it out of there and reservice with DEXIII/Merc. The drain/refill process takes about four shots. If you seach the forum you'll find a bunch of links that describes how to do it.

Edit: That syn trans fluid you say you are running may be the root cause of your problems.

 

I can imagine a rebuild won't be cheap and it sounds like the first shop didn't do it right. I would find a used AW4 on craigslist and swap it in. I've seen them for $150-200 here for low mileage ones. Use Dex/Merc III compatible fluid ONLY and a nice big transmission cooler. That should make it run for a long time. The AW4 will go to 300k miles easily with proper maintenance.

 

Dex/Mercon and drive it.

 

+1 and toss a fluid cooler in.
There is one external adjustment- the TV cable- that can affect shift quality. It's performs a similar function to the TV cable in the 700R4, controls line pressure and it's adjusted exactly the same way. Press button, retract cable, floor the accelerator so it ratchets back out into position.
The AW4 is not as twitchy about mis-adjustment of that cable as the early 700r4s were though, too low and you could pop an R4 in a few miles.

 

Aw4s are solid transmissions, if the shop used atf4 then that's why it's acting funky on you, dex/merc has a less potent friction modifier, which causes it to have noticeable shifting, ie a pretty solid "I'm in first (slight bump) now I'm in 2nd" kind of feel. The atf 4 with its modifiers cause more slipping, which is great for smooth shifting but will eat your clutches up like no other. Imagine having a manual, and letting the clutch off extremely slowly, while holding 3k rpm...same idea, bad for the clutch.

Any who, I would get a jy aw4, or one that has had the packs serviced with dex iii/merc, and run only the dex merc. Don't shell out for the sythetic junk, it's just an extra expense for no gain.

 

Thanks guys, think I've made the decision to give the AW-4 another chance to perform. Sounds like you gents have faith in it. My deal is that I go into some pretty remote areas, generally alone, but with family knowing where I'm heading, and enough food/water etc to last a couple days anyway. Thus, I need dependability as my first priority. So.......
Most all the cars I've built over the years have had trans coolers (if automatic) and I recognize the benefit of that. However, these Cherokees seem to run hotter than most anything I've had in the past, and I don't see that they readily lend themselves to a separate cooler. I have A/C, and routinely need it during summer, but manage without when offroad creeping along. If I was to add a trans cooler, I think I'd locate it under the hood, fastened to the underside of my 10X12 inch hood vent, probably even attaching a small fan beneath it, to ensure airflow across the fins. I'm open to alternate ideas, please.
Also, at your suggestions, I'll be servicing the trans (again) next week, filter and fluid change, back to dino Dex/Merc. I'll probably also flush some additional fluid out through the cooler lines, hoping to move some new fluid through the valve body.
Reckon we'll see if I get any improvement in trans operation, hope so.
Give me a couple weeks to evaluate any results/changes, and I'll repost.
Thanks again for your time taken to respond.
Bob
edit: forgot to say that the fluid is clear, red, smells right, and at the right level, neutral, running, and hot

 

I would also look into installing a trans temp gauge.

 

The hood vent idea is probably fine, but there is room behind the grill for a cooler.
Here's the B&M 70264 on my '95 which is 1.5" thick, it just barely fits, but does fit (yes my Jeep has A/C), 97+ XJs have even more room behind the grill since it is more vertical):





x2, better to know what the temp is than to guess.

 

OP,

If you are interested in installing a trans temp gauge you may be interested in the data in the below link. The '97 AW4 was the last year you can use this port.

Go here and scroll down to post #48.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/gre...e-6558/index4/

 

trans cooler -- even a small one -- will drop your temperature a significant amount. Add in a temperature gauge as well --- you can either tap off the trans, or s&K sells a few that you can run inline at the output of the trans cooler, which will give a more accurate reading.

Trans cooler will take all of two-three hours to install, and will cost less than $100.