I've noticed that when I shift back to 2 hi on my '00, it takes about a quarter of a mile to disengage. I pulled out of my neighborhood onto a dry road, so I shifted out of 4X4. I could still hear the front axel engaged, and about a quarter mile down the road, there was a clunk like I hit a pothole, and it shifted out. This happened again the next day. I have no problem shifting into 4X4, though. I don't want to use it now, as I don't want to blow my transfer case. Anyone seen this before?

 

I've noticed similar shifting characteristics with mine. Whenever I shift out of 4wd into 2wd I usually put it in reverse and move back 10-20ft or so. That takes the load off of everything and helps it shift no problem.

 

I often let off the power and back on or pop it in neutral for a second and back. From what I've read it's pretty common. I believe I read somewhere that accelerating and decelerating briefly was actually written into the manual, not sure. I wouldn't sweat it much other than to do what's needed to get it disengaged before making turns on a high traction surface. If you're coming off a trail onto pavement shift to 2wd as soon as you no longer need 4, they shift out more easily when off-road due to the uneven and low traction terrain. You basically just need to give the Tcase an opportunity where it isn't under tension so that the gears can let go. In some T-cases the lever is directly connected to the shift mechanism and the lever won't move until the gears can move which also allows the operator to force them. These are apparently (not sure exactly) spring loaded so the amount of force on the mechanism is controlled and relatively minimal.

 

You need to let off the gas, switch in/out of 4 hi, then accelerate again. Standard procedure as listed in your manual (if you still have it haha). There is a different procedure for 4 low. Hope this helps.

 

Treat it like bicycle gears, easier to shift if you are moving and driveline is relaxed, does not work well stopped or driveline loaded.

Transfer case also tends to bind up a bit if you have different sized tires, either because of mismatched brands, uneven rotation, low pressure, etc

 

Some people also say the linkage may need adjusting, took me like 5 minutes total. On my 99 its a 1/2 inch bolt. I just did that today so if I go on snowy roads Ill get back to how it worked for me.

 

Adjusting the t case linkage helped a bit for me. Still not perfect but can't complain about improvement.

 

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

 

My thoughts as well.

If you have ONE tire that is low on air pressure, this can affect transfer case operation. I've seen this and experienced it multiple times.

It easy to rule this one in or out. Check air pressure on all 4 tires.

 

As mentioned this is expected. The issue stems from attempting to disengage the system AFTER you've caused it to bind up. The second you turned you cause a bunch of stuff to bind internally. Running like that will eventually cause damage (you didn't think that loud BANG was a good noise, right?), and you do NOT want to just force it. Shift out of 4WD before you hit the hard dry surface and it'll last forever.

 

Have all the same issue except I am experiencing one other thing. When in 4hi, jeep pulls hard to the right. Only does it when in 4x4. It does also take 100' or so (give or take) plus that loud clunk to finally disengage.

 

Is your left front axle broken?

 

This may be a dumb question, but is there any easy way to tell with out tearing front end apart?

 

Put it in 4WD and Park. Set the parkbrake. Jack up the driver's side front wheel and see if it turns at all.

 

Doesn't turn. Means its locked in correct? Shaft not broke...I don't see understand why it would pull so hard only when in 4x4.