6SpdBBody

Hey guys, long time lurker, but don't post quite that much. I did search for quite a while looking for some information on this, but never found anything. Also all Youtube videos i saw involved automatics.
Just got a 96 cherokee with the 4.0 and 5spd trans. I bought it knowing the motor was bad but bc it's a 2dr model and 4wd and they're hard to come by in my neck of the woods i had to have it. My question is, is replacing the motor as simple as removing the bad and replacing, or will i need to pull the transmission as well? I know with the automatics just undo the bellhousing bolts and flywheel bolts and support the trans and pull the motor forward a little bit and up it comes, but with the 5speed you have the input shaft of the trans that needs to be lined up with clutch/pp as well and was wondering if that presents any issues in these. Im very mechanically inclined and do a lot of LSx swap stuff and own a 6.0 T56 6 speed in a 1995 impala and in that particular car, you can't pull or replace the motor without dropping the trans or they'll never mate back up due to where the motor mounts are and lack of trans tunnel space. Thanks in advance guys!

freegdr

Pull trans .

cruiser54

Don't pull trans.

6SpdBBody

lol, thanks guys. I'll pull the trans, while also not pulling the trans. I did a r&r on a 3.0 5-spd ranger a few months back, and was able to do it without pulling the trans even though it was somewhat aggravating

cruiser54

Its easy without pulling the trans. I part XJs out. Ive done tons of them.

DFlintstone

Usually it's your best bet to listen to Cruiser. Not dissen Freedgr who does indeed know things. You will want to make sure the replacement engine has the proper pilot bearing, / or bushing? for the manual trans in the end of the crank. An engine from an auto trans will need some attention there.

Myself, for sure I'd just pull the engine. Having done a dozen or so (other makes), I've always aligned the clutch plate by eye, but there is a cheap plastic alignment tool. Freedgr might have a point there in that having the engine perfectly aligned for both the splines and the pilot on install, will be loads of fun.

6SpdBBody

Yeah im gonna try my luck and just pull the motor and support the trans, worst case if i can't get it all lined back up i'll just drop the trans.

DFlintstone

With some careful jiggling and eyeing the space between the bell housing and the engine, it will go at some point. Worst thing is when some poor guy has the tranny clamped in a tranny jack that won't let it line up. I'd rather have the trans balanced on a little floor jack so I can move it. Having a 2x6 block and a little jack under the pan might be helpful.

investinwaffles

Lining things back up is always a NIGHTMARE for me, but I always have to do it by myself which makes it twice as difficult.

You should be able to get to all the bellhousing bolts with the trans in place though

6SpdBBody

Have either of yall ever "studded" the bellhousing to make lining it all up easier? I did that with my lt1/t56 and it definitely helped lining everything up in that car and then just used lock nuts on the studs.

DFlintstone

I've never used studs. Sometimes you can start a few bolts before it's really there. Never force it with bolts. When she is lined up it should slip in pretty much by hand. A firm shake and giggle might precede the grand moment when finally it goes.

cruiser54

4.0 in a Cherokee is cake to do.
Take the radiator out. Flop the power steering pump over to the driver's side inner fender because you already removed the air cleaner assembly.
Flop the AC compressor with hoses still attached into the void where the battery was.
Make sure you loosen/remove the uppermost 2 bellhousing bolts FIRST!!!
As for motor mounts remove the 2 bolts/nuts on each side leaving the mounts attached to the engine.

that should get you started.

6SpdBBody

Thank you sir. I've done a few xj r&r, but it's been about 12-15yrs ago and were automatics. I tore down my new motor yesterday and started eyeballing everything and had forgotten how easy these things really are to work on.

jhc7399

Lol, good stuff!

6SpdBBody

She's out. Was a breeze. From putting it on the lift to motor on the floor was maybe 2 hrs worth of work. Had a little snag when i thought what was just an normal inspection cover was actually an entire plate that's behind the flywheel, couldn't get the motor and trans to separate for some reason and that was it. The hardest part was by far the e12 bolts up top. Really difficult to get to unless you unbolt trans cross member and let it drop a few inches. But I also removed the motor mounts so they won't be in way when dropping new motor back in and trying to align it. Once everythings bolted back up I can raise motor enough to put the new mounts in.