33x10.50s and no fender trimming
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,071
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lol.... no worries. I think most of us start that way. This truck is definitely going to wheel. I'll be posting pics on the board. Hopefully soon.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,071
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Mike H, your truck is awesome. Very functional. Did you have any trouble w/"death wobble"? etc..
What is your OME lift comprised of? Any rubbing problems?
What is your OME lift comprised of? Any rubbing problems?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Here is the very long version...
OME lift has evolved a great deal over the years.
Started out with the full 2" kit (coils/leafs/shocks) on 235/75-15's. The rig was capable enough at that point that rocker skids were required. No trimming was required, but the 235's would rub the fender liner at full stuff up front.
As time passed, I added coil spring spacers and a 1" longer shackle. The rig then sat at 2.5" and I was running 31" super swampers and 4.56 gearing (which was as deep as the stock axles would take at the time).
31" tires at that height would tear the front stock flares off when flexed and turning off road, and the rears would rub the lower portions of the rear wheel wells. I ditched the flares, and trimmed minimally for tire clearance. I also need to add 1.5" to front bump stops to keep the tires off the shock mount up inside the wheel well. The tires also rubbed the stock control arms. I picked up some longer steering stop bolts and adjusted them accordingly. I was running Currie heavy duty stock replacement steering at this time.
The addition of front and rear bumpers, heavy duty belly pan/cross member and chassis reinforcing sank the rig to less than 2" of lift.
I put larger coil spring spacers in and got a full length OME add-a-leaf to put it back up handy to 2.5" of lift. Empty, the rear actually sits at 3", but loaded with recovery gear etc., it sets back down to 2.5".
I went to 33’s at this time.
When going to the 33’s, I knew I would lose up-travel, and droop was already limited by stock control arms, track bar and 2” lift shocks… so…
I added a double shear track bar, Rubicon Express SuperFlex control arms and OME long travel shocks in addition to YJ braided brake lines. Droop improved dramatically.
33” tires definitely rubbed both up front and out back. I had to cut and fold the rear fenders, and pound the crap out of the wheel wells to clear. Up front, more trimming was required all along the fender edge, the fender liner was removed, and the weld seem inside the fender was rolled/pounded flat. I had to add longer bump stops again to keep the tire out of the shock mounting up in the wheel well.
The adjustable track bar and control arms made dialing in the alignment possible. The stock arms did not allow “proper” caster, and the stock track bar had the front axle 3/8” off center. The rig goes straight as an arrow now with ease.
OME lift has evolved a great deal over the years.
Started out with the full 2" kit (coils/leafs/shocks) on 235/75-15's. The rig was capable enough at that point that rocker skids were required. No trimming was required, but the 235's would rub the fender liner at full stuff up front.
As time passed, I added coil spring spacers and a 1" longer shackle. The rig then sat at 2.5" and I was running 31" super swampers and 4.56 gearing (which was as deep as the stock axles would take at the time).
31" tires at that height would tear the front stock flares off when flexed and turning off road, and the rears would rub the lower portions of the rear wheel wells. I ditched the flares, and trimmed minimally for tire clearance. I also need to add 1.5" to front bump stops to keep the tires off the shock mount up inside the wheel well. The tires also rubbed the stock control arms. I picked up some longer steering stop bolts and adjusted them accordingly. I was running Currie heavy duty stock replacement steering at this time.
The addition of front and rear bumpers, heavy duty belly pan/cross member and chassis reinforcing sank the rig to less than 2" of lift.
I put larger coil spring spacers in and got a full length OME add-a-leaf to put it back up handy to 2.5" of lift. Empty, the rear actually sits at 3", but loaded with recovery gear etc., it sets back down to 2.5".
I went to 33’s at this time.
When going to the 33’s, I knew I would lose up-travel, and droop was already limited by stock control arms, track bar and 2” lift shocks… so…
I added a double shear track bar, Rubicon Express SuperFlex control arms and OME long travel shocks in addition to YJ braided brake lines. Droop improved dramatically.
33” tires definitely rubbed both up front and out back. I had to cut and fold the rear fenders, and pound the crap out of the wheel wells to clear. Up front, more trimming was required all along the fender edge, the fender liner was removed, and the weld seem inside the fender was rolled/pounded flat. I had to add longer bump stops again to keep the tire out of the shock mounting up in the wheel well.
The adjustable track bar and control arms made dialing in the alignment possible. The stock arms did not allow “proper” caster, and the stock track bar had the front axle 3/8” off center. The rig goes straight as an arrow now with ease.
Last edited by Mike H.; Jun 24, 2009 at 10:06 PM.
you can put 33's without trimming if you put 6 inches of lift
but i would go 4.5 and put rustys cut out flares on it
go here:
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=BODY
you can trim with out looking like you did at all
but i would go 4.5 and put rustys cut out flares on it
go here:
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=BODY
you can trim with out looking like you did at all
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 466
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From: southern maine
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i like keeping it low. I have 3" with 31's and rustys flairs. I trimed a lot before i put the flairs on, but I didn't rub before I did, had to buy flairs for the popo to leave me alone. There is enough room for 33s but my 31's only have about 7k on them. Already have the gears waiting for the tires to wear out.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,071
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Guys, what about wheels? What is the right size to put on for little lift and 33s?
Mike H, are your wheels 15x7? 15x8? What is the backspace? I have a set of 15x8 chrome steelies w/4" backspace. Will those require more fender trimming than if I go w/stock wheels? With stock wheels, are you likely to rub w/10.5" wide tires?
Mike H, are your wheels 15x7? 15x8? What is the backspace? I have a set of 15x8 chrome steelies w/4" backspace. Will those require more fender trimming than if I go w/stock wheels? With stock wheels, are you likely to rub w/10.5" wide tires?
you can use them and you will have to trim a tiny bit cause they will push the wheels out twords the outside of the jeep. but n a 10 inch wide tire a 7 inch wide wheel is fine i run a 8 inch wide wheel on my 33x12.50x15
You need to figure out your backspacing. I can shove 32" tires on stock Icon wheels and not rub up front (sway bar connected) but they rub out back on the inside flat surface of the fender (above frame) when flexing and also rub on the control arms. It's nothing MAJOR though. I am at 4" too. I recently put on 1" wheel spacers so I am at 4.25" backspacing now and rub like a **** up front when flexing but it doesn't rub out back anymore. Basically you will need to trim regardless of how high you go unless it's a mall-crawler. I refuse to trim because it's just too nice of a jeep to cut up at this time. Maybe when the damage starts showing then i'll start cutting but for now it stays with stock fenders and a little rubbing.
So...downsize to 31's or get out that sawzall.
So...downsize to 31's or get out that sawzall.
You need to figure out your backspacing. I can shove 32" tires on stock Icon wheels and not rub up front (sway bar connected) but they rub out back on the inside flat surface of the fender (above frame) when flexing and also rub on the control arms. It's nothing MAJOR though. I am at 4" too. I recently put on 1" wheel spacers so I am at 4.25" backspacing now and rub like a **** up front when flexing but it doesn't rub out back anymore. Basically you will need to trim regardless of how high you go unless it's a mall-crawler. I refuse to trim because it's just too nice of a jeep to cut up at this time. Maybe when the damage starts showing then i'll start cutting but for now it stays with stock fenders and a little rubbing.
So...downsize to 31's or get out that sawzall.
So...downsize to 31's or get out that sawzall.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Djlorroc,
I'm running stock steel wheels, 15x7 and whatever stock backspacing is... you also have stock steel wheels... my wheels/your wheels are the same size and backspacing.
I'm running stock steel wheels, 15x7 and whatever stock backspacing is... you also have stock steel wheels... my wheels/your wheels are the same size and backspacing.
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