3" lift questions
#1
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Year: 2000
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3" lift questions
Hello,
Im going with a Zone 3" lift(Link: http://zoneoffroad.com/product?ki=34&gr=-1) as sort of an introduction to lift kits as well as it fits into my budget currently and i just have a question about the ream axle. I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L with no abs and according to wiki(link:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Ch...(XJ)#Rear_Axle i have the Chrysler 8.25" rear axle, is this correct can i order this kit for that one? Also if anyone has a clicky with pictures on how to possibly do it myself and save some more scratch.
Im going with a Zone 3" lift(Link: http://zoneoffroad.com/product?ki=34&gr=-1) as sort of an introduction to lift kits as well as it fits into my budget currently and i just have a question about the ream axle. I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L with no abs and according to wiki(link:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Ch...(XJ)#Rear_Axle i have the Chrysler 8.25" rear axle, is this correct can i order this kit for that one? Also if anyone has a clicky with pictures on how to possibly do it myself and save some more scratch.
#2
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well i am sure i will not be much help,, i just did my 3.5 inch lift myself,,,no garage all hand tools and is was a pain in my **** make sure and rent a spring compressor,, and get a can of pb blaster and soak all bolts the nite before,, it took me about 8 hrs total
#3
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Year: 1996
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You MIGHT have an 8.25 or a D35. Does your axle have a flat lip on the bottom of the pumpkin? Yes, it's and 8.25, no its D35. Even if you order the wrong kit you'll be OK, as the only difference is the 4 U-bolts. There are tons of write-ups available, just need to do a little searching and the kit should come with instructions. We can help with any question you have. If you don't have one get a Chilton's or Haynes manual, they can be used to install a lift.
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Year: 2000
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What does this have to do with the question i asked? Btw thanks for the help so far besides the transfer case drop anything else that is a necessity?
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im just going off of i posted a question and generally in forums you only post thoughts or questions relative to the thread topic
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#8
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If you disconnect your sway bars you may need longer brake line.
Depending on what tires you put on will determine if you need the backspaced rims(or spacers for a real pain in the neck)
Is this going to be heavily off roaded or will it be 50/50?
Depending on what tires you put on will determine if you need the backspaced rims(or spacers for a real pain in the neck)
Is this going to be heavily off roaded or will it be 50/50?
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Year: 2000
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if you are going with a 3 lift be prepared for dw its killin me trying to figure out how to get rid of it. i did my lift myself pb blaster spring compresser, a good one helped me. do alot of research dw good luck.
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Year: 2000
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2.5 Turbo: its actually my daily driver which is one reason i dont wanna do anything too crazy im going with the stick 15" rim with maybe a 30X9.25 tires so if anyone can give me tips on what i need to keep on get rid of to keep it my daily driver it would also be appreciated,:; ive heard that alot so maybe ill go with the profession install for around 200 thanks for tips 2000limited
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Also im going to get the 3" kit as well as the transfer case drop is there anything else that is crucial for this to be my daily driver as well?
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if you're only gonna run 30x9.50's you won't have any issues with rub even when it's stock. You won't need spacers or different rims with more backspacing (unless you want different rims). With a 2000, it's probably an 8.25 rear, but if you have ABS it'll be a D35. Everything else is pretty straight forward - lots of pb the night before, spring compressor, and patience. Take your time, don't try to rush it, and if you have questions, we're here.
Last edited by no rdplz; 06-28-2010 at 10:54 PM.
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Nothing else for a dd. You can upgrade the steering stabilizer but it's not a must. If you do plan on disconnecting the front sway bar offroad you'll need longer brake lines. '95 YJ lines work real well up front and '96 Dakota for the rear. Both are a direct fit and give you quite a bit more travel.
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DW doesn't come from adding a lift. It's due to the absorption and release of energy at the same time in your suspension system. Bad tie rods, ball joints, axle u-joints, a bad drag link, wheel misalignment, unbalanced tires, a loose/worn steering stabilizer, control arms that are too short, bad bushings,or any combination of these can cause it. Most of the time, it's the wheel alignment if it's happened immediately after a lift. if this is the case, get it fixed immediately. The next thing to check is the control arms. If you're using the stock ones still, your axle caster may have changed due to your pinion pointing down. Adjustable arms will fix this. The rest would be worn out parts that need simple replacement. Hope this helps.
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