2001 dies while running
My wife's 2001 xj died while on her way home today. So this is 2nd hand account, but she was driving and it completely died, but the electronics stayed on (radio) yet she lost power steering and could not accellerate.
Luckily made it off the road, and it started once or twice, went a little, then died. She said the oil pressure maxed out at over 80, which may or may not be a separate issue. The CEL came on briefly, but it did not come on later. The jeep is at the father in laws house, he had a code reader and did not get any codes to pop up. Apparently there was a vacuum line that was broke off the cruise control when he was pulling on stuff.
Just based on what I read here, its probably the crankshaft position sensor, I am going to get a multi-meter and try the test. But given it sounds like the oil pressure might be screwed up also, would that be a cuase, same with a bad cruise control vac line?
Whats the move here, test that cps from the front and see what it shows or is that not definitive? Is this easy to get to? Some say this swap is really hard, others say its 30 min, whats the deal on the 2001?
Thanks
Luckily made it off the road, and it started once or twice, went a little, then died. She said the oil pressure maxed out at over 80, which may or may not be a separate issue. The CEL came on briefly, but it did not come on later. The jeep is at the father in laws house, he had a code reader and did not get any codes to pop up. Apparently there was a vacuum line that was broke off the cruise control when he was pulling on stuff.
Just based on what I read here, its probably the crankshaft position sensor, I am going to get a multi-meter and try the test. But given it sounds like the oil pressure might be screwed up also, would that be a cuase, same with a bad cruise control vac line?
Whats the move here, test that cps from the front and see what it shows or is that not definitive? Is this easy to get to? Some say this swap is really hard, others say its 30 min, whats the deal on the 2001?
Thanks
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
If it's not starting at all, test for spark and fuel PRESSURE first. So you'll need a spark tester (or hold a plug wire near ground and crank it over) and a fuel pressure gauge.
The multi-meter resistance test doesn't apply to the later crank sensors. Assuming it's still dead, test for spark first. A bad crank sensor will tend to die when hot or fail to start. It will usually feel like someone killed the ignition versus stumbling, and often not set a code.
The jeep starts fine, even when it was happening she says it fired right up each time. What would that point too? All ignition stuff would be clear or no?
So that electric test cant be done on a 2001?
So that electric test cant be done on a 2001?
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
No, usually it's ignition components that suffer heat-related illnesses like this.
Like Lawsoncl said, it'll feel like it just turned off. Fuel issues feel like sputtering, or it just won't restart period unless you beat on the gas tank.
Like Lawsoncl said, it'll feel like it just turned off. Fuel issues feel like sputtering, or it just won't restart period unless you beat on the gas tank.
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
That's a tough one. I'm always in favor of testing before replacing ANY parts. This one sounds too much like a bad CKP sensor, and there seems to be no way to test it without using an oscilloscope while driving. I don't like to recommend replacing a part, but this one... might be different. Do you have access to another running XJ of the similar year range?
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So I tracked down the cps connector, the videos had it up top, but mine was down low (is that normal?) and did the multimeter test, and it came back with 1800ohm resistance, so guess that means its bad. Correct?
So did it stay dead, or it is running and still intermittently dying once it's warmed up? I'm leaning towards the CPS failing since it's such a common failure, and would probably replace it and see if the symptoms come back. If they symptoms do come back, I'd reinstall the original oem because the after market parts are typically much poorer quality.
So did it stay dead, or it is running and still intermittently dying once it's warmed up? I'm leaning towards the CPS failing since it's such a common failure, and would probably replace it and see if the symptoms come back. If they symptoms do come back, I'd reinstall the original oem because the after market parts are typically much poorer quality.
Any tips for changing them? I read somewhere about using tape to hold the bolts, how would that look or work.
He's saying put a jack under the transmission cross-member, remove the two bolts on either side of the crossmember under the frame rails, and lower the whole thing down some. Tipping everything down gives you more room above the bell housing to get at the crank sensor bolts. Tape the bolts into the socket, btw. You really don't want to drop them into the bellhousing.



