Bryan, the link for the header doesn't seem to work anymore, probably since it's a few years old, do you have a current link? About to Put a 98 xj engine in a 2001 xj. Also, with that header I believe I read that you retained all of the O2 sensors? Ever rid one of the cats and run O2 sensor simulators? I'm planning on massaging the head a little and going with a more aggressive cam so I'd like to lose the restriction. Thanks in advance!

 

Good Luck on finding any simulators, they are Illegal to use and no one makes them anymore that I am aware of. (I searched at one point)

I thought of one time welding in bungs for O2 Sensors in a single downpipe design like those found on earlier models without the two precats, so you have 2 before and 2 after the main Cat, but that probably means extending the wiring on all 4 and may be an issue as the O2 sensors wore and started to fight themselves. As well as changing parts of the exhaust up near the motor.

Search eBay "2000 Jeep Stainless Header" you will find the generics or "2000 Jeep Exhaust Header" for few different ones, Banks, Rugged Ridge (which I used on my first one), the Generic which I have used twice (and I know many others that have used them, one guy said he had a fitment issue but the replacement was fine, so you might want to check it right a way with the manifold in place - I had similar problem with my first Rugged Ridge one and it was welded wrong in Jig)

If Performance is your Goal, maybe its worth the $500 for a Banks Header (I would have a hard time justifying it myself), http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banks-Torque-Tube-Manifold-Headers-for-00-01-Jeep-Cherokee-4-0-SH-/360771013875?fits=Year%3A2000%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item53ffa0ccf3&vxp=mtr
or you can use a generic, I believe this is who I got my last one from, $148 I offered him like $15 less and he took it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-6-2-HEADER-FOR-00-06-WRANGLER-4-0-l6-TJ-AMC-242-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/181056109995?fits=Year%3A2000%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item2a27c8fdab&vxp=mtr
Again, I always used Permatex Copper on both sides of the header gasket and never have had a header leak.

And the bottom two middle bolts are a huge pain with a header... have lots of patience and expect to take an hour on each, just no room, end up using one finger to hold and spin.

And make sure you understand how to set the cam sensor thing (distributor), Cylinder #1 at Top Dead, toothpick through alignment holes in place to hold inner spinning sensor in place, wire plug pointing where it was before you removed it, typically at some point on passenger fender. Once running I usually turn it a bit until it sounds best, but you are suppose to use a Chrysler tech tool to set it.


Good Luck,

Bryan

 

Thanks for all the tips and help! I actually located simulators fairly easily. I mean, it is for off- road only use anyhow! Lol. I'm not looking for huge performance gains, I just have a friend who loves doing port work so while it's apart, I might as well let him at it! This isn't an overnight project since I'm rebuilding plus swapping in the better axles from the 98 donor rig and sand blasting/painting the axles and undercarriage while it's apart, but I'll let you know how it goes and probably ask more questions along the way!

 

I stand corrected, O2 Simulators were easy to find 6-7 years ago, then outlawed and impossible to find 3-5 years ago, but yes I find them easy now.

But all I see is after/down stream Cat Simulators (not that I looked hard), and you would need one before cat as well, and I think that complicates things. They are made so you can get rid of the Cat... so upstream ones are generally not needed.

On the 2000-01 models with PreCats the O2 sensors are before and after the precats which made it easy to remove the main Cat if wanted.

PS: Cold Air Intake, Header, 99-01 intake, better muffler, and Neon Injectors worked well on my motors.

 

that is sweet.. how expensive is that coil pack? do you have the wiring diagram to do it? part number on the coil?

 

I did the same thing on one of my Cherokee's, I just made a straight through extension cord for the plug that use to go on the back of my old standard coil pack, I cut female part of the plug off the back of a bad coil and solder wires to it (the other end I used a plug from the junk yard), but you could do the same with any dodge coil that is similar at the junkyard (cut the female end off of a coil).

Then I used a Caravan Junkyard Coil Pack, Plug Wires - and took the plug and cut the wires to make the extension cable for the power, spent a whole $15 to do the coil swap.

The way I did I can always switch back to the standard coil, but you could instead just splice into the wires and extend them if you wanted to instead.

 

hmmm. i have to look into this. guess it would help if i looked at my plug. then maybe i would understand a little better..

 

Basically just making a 3 foot extension cord for the coil so I could mount it where his is, but always able to go back to stock if I wanted to.

PS: I used a cutt-off wheel to get the plug off the coil

 

Here is the whole article where I got the idea. You will see where I start in on page 3 the post under "bryweb"

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi...hp?f=26&t=2756

 

cool.. thats crazy that the thing plugs in just like that.. can't get much easier then that. and the added bonus is i get to use my new plug wire jaws for my crimp tool..

 

I would solder everything, then use a heat shrink tubing on it, then tape it all.

 

no doubt. i'm a fanatic when it comes to heat shrink and protecting the wires.

 

So I hate to drag up an old thread, but I found this useful after the fact.
I have a 2000 and a 1999 Cherokee. The 2000's body is gone so I bought the 99. After a few days of troubleshooting I found that the ECM was bad so decided to pull the one out of the 00. So what did I do? I pulled the engine wiring harness, cam sensor, coil pack, and ECM from the 00. Then pulled the dizzy, coil, wiring harness, and ECM out of the 99. I started the swap in the 99 with the wiring harness and got it run throughout. I had to lengthen one of the O2 sensor wires to get it to reach the back one. Then I went to the cam sensor. When you are putting the engine on TDC make sure you stop on the zero mark on the crank aligning the timing mark on the crank pulley with the zero on the timing cover. This will make the cam sensor drop in easier, but you may have to spin the oil pump drive shaft. Then I out the computer in and plugged everything in along with the coil pack. Once I got everything finished I hooked the battery back up crossed my fingers and tried to start it. Fired right up on the first try and hasn't given me any running issues since then. I will have to get a header since I have a few unplugged O2 sensors right now that has the check engine light on. The other thing I noticed was that my full time 4x4 light is on and the part time light never comes on. I am thinking of changing out the Tom to see if that changes just have not gotten that far yet. Will post if it fixes the light issue later.

 

I just swapped a 98 and put it in a 2000 xj. instead of swapping heads I just took it to a muffler shop. I got it running up until it reaches operating temp then it misfire and starts throwing codes any suggestions

 

What codes are you getting? I just did another 2k swap in my 99 a month ago.