Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
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2 questions 1 thread, please advise.

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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 07:20 AM
  #106  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Firehawk068
The thermostat regulates engine outlet temperature (to the radiator)
Coolant flows through the heater system at all times, regardless if the thermostat is open or closed. It also circulates from the head back to the block via this bypass at all times.

I am running a 195* thermostat.
When the engine is warmed up, and I'm driving in stop/go traffic in town, it runs around 205-210*.
When I'm on the highway, and it's cold outside, it runs somewhere around 175-180* (I'm sure once the coolant that circulates back toward the front of the engine heats back up to around 195-200* by the time it reaches the thermostat again) Probably why Jeep put the engine coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing.
When I'm wheeling a trail, and crawling up a mountain, it runs somewhere around 225-230*
I don't worry at all at that temp because it never gets up near the red zone, and always comes back down once the electric fan has been on for a little while.

One thing that I'm confused about.
In the other thread that Crazy 8 posted. The OP mentions something about "all 99 are Reverse"
I'm not quite sure what that poster was referring to?
As far as I know, all 4.0 engines are cooled the same, minus the difference between the Renix, and HO overflow systems of course..........
You could have a bad fan clutch and a faulty stat that opens too soon.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 08:01 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You could have a bad fan clutch and a faulty stat that opens too soon.
I'm going to visit the Fan clutch in the spring....................It may be original(175,000 miles on it)
It doesn't leak any fluid, and I know it's working cause I can hear the fan over the engine noise..............But its old.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 08:17 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Firehawk068
I'm going to visit the Fan clutch in the spring....................It may be original(175,000 miles on it)
It doesn't leak any fluid, and I know it's working cause I can hear the fan over the engine noise..............But its old.
I've never found a reliable test for them anyway.

What brand stat did you put in?
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I've never found a reliable test for them anyway.

What brand stat did you put in?
I have the one that Hesco sells.
It's the Mr Gasket/Robertshaw "Balanced Flow" design....



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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:31 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I've never found a reliable test for them anyway.
Newspaper test.

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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:57 AM
  #111  
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Geez.....that beamer still has pistons swappin' holes.

The fan clutch in that goofy video is 100% shot......0% effective. If it was say 50%-60% shot, or 40%-50% effective, it would completely shred that new paper instantly, thus appearing to be in good shape by that worthless test because it shred the paper. Again, it would still only be 40%-50% effective at pulling max air thru the rad when needed. Do u want a fan clutch that is only 40%-50% effective but will shred a newspaper?......I don't. To me, a $35 fan clutch is a disposable maintenance item.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:03 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Firestorm500
Quote: "Coolant flows through the heater system at all times, regardless if the thermostat is open or closed""

Unless it is blocked from the heater core by a water control valve.
.......and if the heater control valve is closed, thus blocking flow to the heater core, the bypass loop is still flowing coolant thru the motor by bypassing the heater control valve.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:08 AM
  #113  
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Could "balanced flow" be considered marketing hype?......something like "fail safe"?
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:24 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by djb383
.......and if the heater control valve is closed, thus blocking flow to the heater core, the bypass loop is still flowing coolant thru the motor by bypassing the heater control valve.
It was Firehawk068's post talking about the heater loop I was addressing/correcting, not the internal engine loop.

Coolant does not flow through the heater core at all times when the engine is running, assuming the system has a working heater water control valve.

Last edited by Firestorm500; Nov 25, 2014 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 12:17 PM
  #115  
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For once, u agree with me. LOL

If we could just get someone else to understand how the XJ cooling system flows and how the 2 coolant flow "loops" work and what the stat does.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 12:31 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by djb383
For once, u agree with me. LOL

If we could just get someone else to understand how the XJ cooling system flows and how the 2 coolant flow "loops" work and what the stat does.
The stat keeps the coolant in the engine until it is warm enough to open the stat. From there, it flows through the radiator.

In my Jeep, the heater core is bypassed by looping the out hose right back in. It rarely gets cold enough in Phoenix to use the heater. The PO had routed the hose like that and I haven't yet tested the heater core to see if it is leaking or blocked up... One of these days I will though it really doesn't matter cus I am not going to need to use the heater.

TBH, the PO totally hacked up the cooling system ghetto-style, but it works and I don't have the scratch to fix it just yet.

(I have found employment, but I don't start until the 8th of Dec. The job pays enough that I can hook up the Jeep right and make it stylin', but it will be a few more weeks...)

Last edited by Crazy 8s; Nov 25, 2014 at 12:34 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 12:36 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Firestorm500
It was Firehawk068's post talking about the heater loop I was addressing/correcting, not the internal engine loop.

Coolant does not flow through the heater core at all times when the engine is running, assuming the system has a working heater water control valve.

I was referring to the heater loop in general.
On the later models it goes through the heater at all times.
On the '96-earlier ones, it gets bypassed at the heater valve, and just loops back to the engine from there.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Crazy 8s
.......When the thermostat opens, coolant is able to flow through the block. When it is closed, coolant does not flow through the block.......
Originally Posted by Crazy 8s
The stat keeps the coolant in the engine until it is warm enough to open the stat. From there, it flows through the radiator.......
By George, looking at your 2nd quote vs the 1st, I think u r starting to understand the XJ cooling system to the point where u could correctly explain it to someone else. Congratulations.

Coolant is never blocked from flowing inside/thru the block/motor. Coolant flows thru the motor, via the bypass loop, all of the time the motor is running. Coolant flow thru the radiator loop is anywhere from none to a lot. Coolant flow is NEVER closed/shut-off thru the motor, however coolant flow can be, and is quite frequently, shut-off to the radiator.

Also, congratulations on the new job.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 01:50 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Could "balanced flow" be considered marketing hype?......something like "fail safe"?
That design, which I think was originally from Robertshaw, is not affected by cooling system flow pressure...........
The standard thermostat design has to force itself open against the direction of coolant flow............I guess in some instances it can have an affect on the way it tries to open at the proper temperature.

The "Balanced Flow" style is designed so that it has equal pressure on both sides of the actual valve that opens..............
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 04:02 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Firehawk068
I have the one that Hesco sells.
It's the Mr Gasket/Robertshaw "Balanced Flow" design....



Interesting reads right here.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...ood-story.html

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ats-p-o-s.html

Last edited by cruiser54; Nov 25, 2014 at 04:05 PM.
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