2.5TD coolant refill every 3 tanks of gas
04-23-2018, 01:55 PM
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2.5TD coolant refill every 3 tanks of gas
hi
just a quick question, i need to refill the coolant in my 98 cherokee 2.5TD about every 3 refills of gas
is this normal, where do the water go?
just a quick question, i need to refill the coolant in my 98 cherokee 2.5TD about every 3 refills of gas
is this normal, where do the water go?
04-23-2018, 04:29 PM
#3
Seasoned Member
If it is just a few ounces, that is not really a problem. It could be getting pushed out the cap during high temp moments (it uses the closed system with no overflow bottle). By the way, it is recommended to not shut down the VM 2.5 motor immediately after a fast ride, or the temperature in the heads will rise because of no water circulation. Let it idle 30 seconds or so and then shut it down.
If it is more than a few ounces, then that is not normal. First of all, you should check over the entire cooling system.
Look for leaks in the seams of the filler bottle. Since it is pressurized, it is prone to spring leaks after 20 years (mine did after 8 years and I epoxy glued it back together).
The radiator cap may be worn out like mine was and not hold 15psi anymore and the coolant is seeping out regularly through the passages in the cap. I got a new one from the dealer.
Also check the small lower hoses coming out of the bottle - I had a little leak there for a long time but didn't notice it since the coolant was evaporating very quickly.
I also had a couple of bad water pumps that had sprung leaks- check the underside of the pump. When mine went bad, they made a chirping sound.
Check the radiator and all hoses. Look at the freeze plugs on the engine block to see if one is leaking a bit.
If that all checks out, you can suspect a bad head gasket or a cracked head. Is there any white smoke in the exhaust? Is there any coolant getting in the oil? If you take the radiator cap off with the engine running and warm, does the coolant bubble up and want to spill out? The VM 2.5TD uses the four individual aluminum heads and they are known to crack when overheated. I had two or three of those.
You might scan the OBDII system for codes and see if anything shows up.
If it is more than a few ounces, then that is not normal. First of all, you should check over the entire cooling system.
Look for leaks in the seams of the filler bottle. Since it is pressurized, it is prone to spring leaks after 20 years (mine did after 8 years and I epoxy glued it back together).
The radiator cap may be worn out like mine was and not hold 15psi anymore and the coolant is seeping out regularly through the passages in the cap. I got a new one from the dealer.
Also check the small lower hoses coming out of the bottle - I had a little leak there for a long time but didn't notice it since the coolant was evaporating very quickly.
I also had a couple of bad water pumps that had sprung leaks- check the underside of the pump. When mine went bad, they made a chirping sound.
Check the radiator and all hoses. Look at the freeze plugs on the engine block to see if one is leaking a bit.
If that all checks out, you can suspect a bad head gasket or a cracked head. Is there any white smoke in the exhaust? Is there any coolant getting in the oil? If you take the radiator cap off with the engine running and warm, does the coolant bubble up and want to spill out? The VM 2.5TD uses the four individual aluminum heads and they are known to crack when overheated. I had two or three of those.
You might scan the OBDII system for codes and see if anything shows up.
04-24-2018, 09:44 AM
#4
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If it is just a few ounces, that is not really a problem. It could be getting pushed out the cap during high temp moments (it uses the closed system with no overflow bottle). By the way, it is recommended to not shut down the VM 2.5 motor immediately after a fast ride, or the temperature in the heads will rise because of no water circulation. Let it idle 30 seconds or so and then shut it down.
If it is more than a few ounces, then that is not normal. First of all, you should check over the entire cooling system.
Look for leaks in the seams of the filler bottle. Since it is pressurized, it is prone to spring leaks after 20 years (mine did after 8 years and I epoxy glued it back together).
The radiator cap may be worn out like mine was and not hold 15psi anymore and the coolant is seeping out regularly through the passages in the cap. I got a new one from the dealer.
Also check the small lower hoses coming out of the bottle - I had a little leak there for a long time but didn't notice it since the coolant was evaporating very quickly.
I also had a couple of bad water pumps that had sprung leaks- check the underside of the pump. When mine went bad, they made a chirping sound.
Check the radiator and all hoses. Look at the freeze plugs on the engine block to see if one is leaking a bit.
If that all checks out, you can suspect a bad head gasket or a cracked head. Is there any white smoke in the exhaust? Is there any coolant getting in the oil? If you take the radiator cap off with the engine running and warm, does the coolant bubble up and want to spill out? The VM 2.5TD uses the four individual aluminum heads and they are known to crack when overheated. I had two or three of those.
You might scan the OBDII system for codes and see if anything shows up.
If it is more than a few ounces, then that is not normal. First of all, you should check over the entire cooling system.
Look for leaks in the seams of the filler bottle. Since it is pressurized, it is prone to spring leaks after 20 years (mine did after 8 years and I epoxy glued it back together).
The radiator cap may be worn out like mine was and not hold 15psi anymore and the coolant is seeping out regularly through the passages in the cap. I got a new one from the dealer.
Also check the small lower hoses coming out of the bottle - I had a little leak there for a long time but didn't notice it since the coolant was evaporating very quickly.
I also had a couple of bad water pumps that had sprung leaks- check the underside of the pump. When mine went bad, they made a chirping sound.
Check the radiator and all hoses. Look at the freeze plugs on the engine block to see if one is leaking a bit.
If that all checks out, you can suspect a bad head gasket or a cracked head. Is there any white smoke in the exhaust? Is there any coolant getting in the oil? If you take the radiator cap off with the engine running and warm, does the coolant bubble up and want to spill out? The VM 2.5TD uses the four individual aluminum heads and they are known to crack when overheated. I had two or three of those.
You might scan the OBDII system for codes and see if anything shows up.
I accidentally said it was mine, the thing is that it's a jeep I'm thinking about buying.
I have talked to the owner and there are no bubbles when the engine is hot, no white smoke from the exhaust.
the Heads got replaced for 20 000km ago - the engien have done (260 000km)
the only leak he knows about is a small oil leak from the turbo.
04-24-2018, 01:53 PM
#5
Seasoned Member
i would definitely check out the cooling system before buying it. Do you have a mechanic who is competent with the VM motor? It was also used in Chrysler mini-vans, Rover sedans, and I think, some Fiat delivery trucks.
When the heads were replaced, were they new or used heads? If used, were they pressure checked before installing?
Was a new head gasket installed? (that is a must)
My 98 had a leaky turbo when I bought it in 2002. The central shaft on which the turbo spins was worn and passed oil. I ended up replacing the turbo with a used one, an expensive repair. How is the oil pressure? The oil pump in my 98 also failed and had to be replaced.
The 98 has the OBDII system. You should have a scanner or have access to a scanner to read codes. You can download a Factory Service Manual from this site: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html
I see you have had experience with the VM engine (the 95 you posted about in 2015) so you know something of what you would be getting into. Frankly, though, if you would like another Jeep, the 4.0 gasoline engine is much more reliable and much cheaper to maintain and repair. I think I would look for one of those.
When the heads were replaced, were they new or used heads? If used, were they pressure checked before installing?
Was a new head gasket installed? (that is a must)
My 98 had a leaky turbo when I bought it in 2002. The central shaft on which the turbo spins was worn and passed oil. I ended up replacing the turbo with a used one, an expensive repair. How is the oil pressure? The oil pump in my 98 also failed and had to be replaced.
The 98 has the OBDII system. You should have a scanner or have access to a scanner to read codes. You can download a Factory Service Manual from this site: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html
I see you have had experience with the VM engine (the 95 you posted about in 2015) so you know something of what you would be getting into. Frankly, though, if you would like another Jeep, the 4.0 gasoline engine is much more reliable and much cheaper to maintain and repair. I think I would look for one of those.
04-25-2018, 09:41 AM
#6
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i would definitely check out the cooling system before buying it. Do you have a mechanic who is competent with the VM motor? It was also used in Chrysler mini-vans, Rover sedans, and I think, some Fiat delivery trucks.
When the heads were replaced, were they new or used heads? If used, were they pressure checked before installing?
Was a new head gasket installed? (that is a must)
My 98 had a leaky turbo when I bought it in 2002. The central shaft on which the turbo spins was worn and passed oil. I ended up replacing the turbo with a used one, an expensive repair. How is the oil pressure? The oil pump in my 98 also failed and had to be replaced.
The 98 has the OBDII system. You should have a scanner or have access to a scanner to read codes. You can download a Factory Service Manual from this site: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html
I see you have had experience with the VM engine (the 95 you posted about in 2015) so you know something of what you would be getting into. Frankly, though, if you would like another Jeep, the 4.0 gasoline engine is much more reliable and much cheaper to maintain and repair. I think I would look for one of those.
When the heads were replaced, were they new or used heads? If used, were they pressure checked before installing?
Was a new head gasket installed? (that is a must)
My 98 had a leaky turbo when I bought it in 2002. The central shaft on which the turbo spins was worn and passed oil. I ended up replacing the turbo with a used one, an expensive repair. How is the oil pressure? The oil pump in my 98 also failed and had to be replaced.
The 98 has the OBDII system. You should have a scanner or have access to a scanner to read codes. You can download a Factory Service Manual from this site: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/j...e_manuals.html
I see you have had experience with the VM engine (the 95 you posted about in 2015) so you know something of what you would be getting into. Frankly, though, if you would like another Jeep, the 4.0 gasoline engine is much more reliable and much cheaper to maintain and repair. I think I would look for one of those.
the heads was/is brand new - and it got a new gasket.
i just did a quick search on the scrapjards database and a turbo cost around 3000 sek (about 300 dollars)
yes, my old 95 jeep had the same problem with the coolant.
.. so .. - brand new heads and gasket - no white smoke - no bubbles in the coolant - can it be that the water just evaporate from the system?
or do you think it's a leak somewere?
im thinking of moding the cooling system anyway - putting some air vents on the hood and maby upgrade the fan and or radiator. to help the car keep cool
the petrol is not for me - i need a diesel - however i have ownd a 4.0 jeep and 2x 2.5 petrol wrangler, the 4.0 engien is fantastic
EDIT:
i got a question about this here
im thinking of flushing the system, Now I'm nervous
and i can realy recommend Mcqbushcraft youtube channle for you buschcraft ppl
Last edited by Rolle90; 04-25-2018 at 09:47 AM.
04-25-2018, 06:44 PM
#7
Seasoned Member
If the cap is defective, coolant will get pushed out.
Warm the engine up, let it fast idle, put cardboard in
front of the grille and when the temperature rises,
look for water seeping out of the cap. But, there are
all the other possibilities for leaks that should be
checked out.
The key to minimizing air pockets is to fill with the
fill vent valve open on the upper right hand side of
the radiator.
This is from the FSM, which has a whole chapter on
the cooling system for the VM diesel:
REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system is equipped with a pressurized
coolant tank using a pressure/vent cap. Refilling of
the system is done through this tank.
NOTE: The radiator draincock is equipped with a
rubber o-ring. Do not over tighten draincock.
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and (if
removed), the cylinder block drain-plug.
(2) Remove the plastic radiator fill vent valve
(unscrews counter- clockwise) from the radiator. The
fill vent valve is located on the top of the right radiator
tank.
(3) With the fill vent valve removed, proceed to fill
the system using a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze
as described in the Coolant section of this
group.
(4) Continue to fill the cooling system until coolant
is observed escaping from the fill vent opening. When
this occurs, install the fill vent valve. The plastic
fill vent valve is equipped with a rubber oring.
Do not over tighten the fill vent valve.
(5) Continue to fill the system until the coolant
tank is full.
(6) Install and tighten the coolant tank pressure/
vent cap. Do not use any type of tool when tightening
the cap. Hand tighten only.
(7) With the heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with coolant tank cap tightened.
(8) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
(9) Remove coolant tank cap.
(10) Add coolant into the coolant tank up to the
COLD mark. If possible, only add coolant when
the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm
engine will be higher in the tank due to thermal
expansion.
(11) After the engine has been operated through a
few heat-up and cool-down cycles, recheck the coolant
level in the tank.
Warm the engine up, let it fast idle, put cardboard in
front of the grille and when the temperature rises,
look for water seeping out of the cap. But, there are
all the other possibilities for leaks that should be
checked out.
The key to minimizing air pockets is to fill with the
fill vent valve open on the upper right hand side of
the radiator.
This is from the FSM, which has a whole chapter on
the cooling system for the VM diesel:
REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system is equipped with a pressurized
coolant tank using a pressure/vent cap. Refilling of
the system is done through this tank.
NOTE: The radiator draincock is equipped with a
rubber o-ring. Do not over tighten draincock.
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and (if
removed), the cylinder block drain-plug.
(2) Remove the plastic radiator fill vent valve
(unscrews counter- clockwise) from the radiator. The
fill vent valve is located on the top of the right radiator
tank.
(3) With the fill vent valve removed, proceed to fill
the system using a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze
as described in the Coolant section of this
group.
(4) Continue to fill the cooling system until coolant
is observed escaping from the fill vent opening. When
this occurs, install the fill vent valve. The plastic
fill vent valve is equipped with a rubber oring.
Do not over tighten the fill vent valve.
(5) Continue to fill the system until the coolant
tank is full.
(6) Install and tighten the coolant tank pressure/
vent cap. Do not use any type of tool when tightening
the cap. Hand tighten only.
(7) With the heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with coolant tank cap tightened.
(8) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
(9) Remove coolant tank cap.
(10) Add coolant into the coolant tank up to the
COLD mark. If possible, only add coolant when
the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm
engine will be higher in the tank due to thermal
expansion.
(11) After the engine has been operated through a
few heat-up and cool-down cycles, recheck the coolant
level in the tank.
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12-07-2018, 01:49 PM
#9
Seasoned Member
I suppose that orange on the coolant reservoir means the cap is
leaking. So you'll want to get a new cap from the dealer.
A couple of questions I would ask: what temperature does it leak the coolant?
Is coolant there in Sweden normally orange in color? Or is the coolant rusty?
Since you are the new owner, it is a good idea to drain and refill the
cooling system, as well as the other liquids in the Jeep (transmission,
transfer case, differentials, engine oil) as you have occasion, unless
you know definitely the maintenance history from the previous owner.
I hope that Jeep does you well and you enjoy it for a long time.
leaking. So you'll want to get a new cap from the dealer.
A couple of questions I would ask: what temperature does it leak the coolant?
Is coolant there in Sweden normally orange in color? Or is the coolant rusty?
Since you are the new owner, it is a good idea to drain and refill the
cooling system, as well as the other liquids in the Jeep (transmission,
transfer case, differentials, engine oil) as you have occasion, unless
you know definitely the maintenance history from the previous owner.
I hope that Jeep does you well and you enjoy it for a long time.
12-07-2018, 02:21 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Congrats on the new Jeep!!
We keep being told we're going to get a diesel option in the new Wranglers available in the U.S., but I'm not holding my breath!
We keep being told we're going to get a diesel option in the new Wranglers available in the U.S., but I'm not holding my breath!
12-07-2018, 03:41 PM
#11
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I suppose that orange on the coolant reservoir means the cap is
leaking. So you'll want to get a new cap from the dealer.
A couple of questions I would ask: what temperature does it leak the coolant?
Is coolant there in Sweden normally orange in color? Or is the coolant rusty?
Since you are the new owner, it is a good idea to drain and refill the
cooling system, as well as the other liquids in the Jeep (transmission,
transfer case, differentials, engine oil) as you have occasion, unless
you know definitely the maintenance history from the previous owner.
I hope that Jeep does you well and you enjoy it for a long time.
leaking. So you'll want to get a new cap from the dealer.
A couple of questions I would ask: what temperature does it leak the coolant?
Is coolant there in Sweden normally orange in color? Or is the coolant rusty?
Since you are the new owner, it is a good idea to drain and refill the
cooling system, as well as the other liquids in the Jeep (transmission,
transfer case, differentials, engine oil) as you have occasion, unless
you know definitely the maintenance history from the previous owner.
I hope that Jeep does you well and you enjoy it for a long time.
when i checked the coolant it was blue-ich anyways, but as you can se it has defenetly been rusty as some point.i will be ordering a new cap on monday, i will not be driving the jeep this weekend anyways.
i have noticed two things today do.
1. the car have been standing stil all day (24 hours) and when i opend the cap to the expansion tank there where an hissing noice (pressure)...
2. the car have a good deal of blow by (forgot to check that yesterday)
(this might explain the oil leak at the turbo)However the engien runs perfecly, it starts on the first crank, the transmission and distribution box is 100% and the frame and body is rock solid
with that said i got a good price on the jeep (in my opinion at least )
if the engien would break down i whould at least not be ruined 
if you have any tips or thoughts, please share
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