2.1TD XJ putting back into shape
02-25-2017, 07:57 AM
#1
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Engine: 2.1td oilburner
2.1TD XJ putting back into shape
Hi All!
Thought that a thread could be started as diesel is rather a rarity amongst XJs, plus there is a lot to learn here, and maybe some entertainment for you guys.
Bought my Jeep like 6 months ago out of necessity (ok, ok, having a dirttrack leading to the new house gave me a good excuse... suddenly owning an old tractor became viable and explainable
)
I was searching for something not too big, not too small, not too thirsty...
This Jeep was the only 3 door version in my price range for sell in the wider neighborhood, plus diesel so I went for it.
I know, some of you regard the French oilburner as a piece of cr*p but you see, petrol over here (Poland, Europe) is 1.2USD per litre, so like 4.8 a gallon...? MPG becomes interesting. Though there are a lot of jeeps running with the 4.0 engine on LPG (popular fuel over here, for half the price) , however, the tank is usually mounted in the cargo, which is a no go for me. I'm renovating this old house, so I need the flat cargo, something what I really appreciate in my Jeep. Perfect to carry heavy and dirty stuff. (Pick up trucks are not in fashion here, never were)
So those were my points buying the 3 door jeep. It had to be bigger than a Suzuki Samurai, Vitara, Lada Niva, cheaper than anything Toyota and diesel. That it is raised (a lot), has 3 doors (I love that) and the looks...were just icing on the cake... I love the look.
So I became the owner of a 1990, 2.1TD XJ, which somehow survived 26 years of Wild-Eastern Post-Socialist Maintenance. Body is fairly sound, not much rust, drivetrain and 4 wheel drive was ok when bought. (more of that later) Interior not too destroyed (the crazy Polish CBradio-fever has left a few screwholes here and there) Generally shows it's age, it's shabby, does not smell too nice, black coating of oil everywhere, but no holes, no rattling, and so on.
Believe me, in my price range it was in fairly good shape!
After months of driving it I have noticed a few nuisances which I'm planning to rectify just now. (Finally parked up for some maintenance)
- electrics in tatters... everything but I mean every bloody thing is fixed, fixed, fixed, with insulating tape and the like, like roadside repairs. Funny enough... almost everything works.
- 4wd does not really like to engage. I think it's the vacuum system, weak, maybe. Usually rocking the jeep a bit or rolling backwards helps.
- broken seat consol... I thin I'll have to re-learn to use my arc welder. It's been ages...
- alarmingly low maintenance it seems...
- alarmingly little info on the Renault engine fitted Jeep.
- weak power steering. Erratic after startup, but a few turns it becomes smooth, but weak.
- wiper motor finished, no park-switch, no fast speed, and the potentiometer of the wiper-timer-control had let some smoke out last time it worked...
- headlights are worthless, like a pair of monkeys running in front with candles...
So bought a pile of parts, bucketloads of lubricants, downloaded and pondered over schematics and now the work will start.
If you have any suggestions, please fire away and see my technical questions later as I will encounter them.
Thought that a thread could be started as diesel is rather a rarity amongst XJs, plus there is a lot to learn here, and maybe some entertainment for you guys.
Bought my Jeep like 6 months ago out of necessity (ok, ok, having a dirttrack leading to the new house gave me a good excuse... suddenly owning an old tractor became viable and explainable
)I was searching for something not too big, not too small, not too thirsty...
This Jeep was the only 3 door version in my price range for sell in the wider neighborhood, plus diesel so I went for it.
I know, some of you regard the French oilburner as a piece of cr*p but you see, petrol over here (Poland, Europe) is 1.2USD per litre, so like 4.8 a gallon...? MPG becomes interesting. Though there are a lot of jeeps running with the 4.0 engine on LPG (popular fuel over here, for half the price) , however, the tank is usually mounted in the cargo, which is a no go for me. I'm renovating this old house, so I need the flat cargo, something what I really appreciate in my Jeep. Perfect to carry heavy and dirty stuff. (Pick up trucks are not in fashion here, never were)
So those were my points buying the 3 door jeep. It had to be bigger than a Suzuki Samurai, Vitara, Lada Niva
, cheaper than anything Toyota and diesel. That it is raised (a lot), has 3 doors (I love that) and the looks...were just icing on the cake... I love the look. So I became the owner of a 1990, 2.1TD XJ, which somehow survived 26 years of Wild-Eastern Post-Socialist Maintenance. Body is fairly sound, not much rust, drivetrain and 4 wheel drive was ok when bought. (more of that later) Interior not too destroyed (the crazy Polish CBradio-fever has left a few screwholes here and there) Generally shows it's age, it's shabby, does not smell too nice, black coating of oil everywhere, but no holes, no rattling, and so on.
Believe me, in my price range it was in fairly good shape!
After months of driving it I have noticed a few nuisances which I'm planning to rectify just now. (Finally parked up for some maintenance)
- electrics in tatters... everything but I mean every bloody thing is fixed, fixed, fixed, with insulating tape and the like, like roadside repairs. Funny enough... almost everything works.
- 4wd does not really like to engage. I think it's the vacuum system, weak, maybe. Usually rocking the jeep a bit or rolling backwards helps.
- broken seat consol... I thin I'll have to re-learn to use my arc welder. It's been ages...
- alarmingly low maintenance it seems...
- alarmingly little info on the Renault engine fitted Jeep.
- weak power steering. Erratic after startup, but a few turns it becomes smooth, but weak.
- wiper motor finished, no park-switch, no fast speed, and the potentiometer of the wiper-timer-control had let some smoke out last time it worked...
- headlights are worthless, like a pair of monkeys running in front with candles...
So bought a pile of parts, bucketloads of lubricants, downloaded and pondered over schematics and now the work will start.
If you have any suggestions, please fire away and see my technical questions later as I will encounter them.
02-25-2017, 08:11 AM
#2
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Engine: 2.1td oilburner
First big job: Installing the water heater.
As we have fairly tough winters and I do not have a garage I decided to install an electric water heater. Did the job in October, but I did not like the routing of the pipes. Now the pump/heater shall be under the expansion tank of the engine (J8s engine has pressurized cooling). But... which direction the coolant is moving? I seem to have 2 pipes coming from the cyl head both connected to the heater core and the lower also connected to the water pump. (plus whatever waterways are inside) the heater pump will be inserted before the heating matrix. Will Put some pictures soon.
Second: vacuum system: see... I wanted a jeep with no electrics or fancy vacuum system for the 4wheel drive. Looking at the interior it seemed all mechanical, massive handle, metal everywhere. I was mistaken. There is the CAD.
I'd like to eliminate all the unneeded bits, like 4wd light (no such thing on my dash... where it supposed to be??) some cut vacuum tubes (maybe prepared for a non-existent aircon?) loads of vacuum check valves....
Never worked on vacuum system so i'ts kinda new to me. I can trace the tube from the engine to the brake booster, and vacuum reservoir. Connected with a T junction there is a big thing, looking like a biggish check valve, and a cylindrical thing, looking like a big capacitor. I have not found anything about those... what are they for??
How can I check the vacuum system working? Put my finger on the tube? I'd keep the CAD as locking the axle will make my front end turning all the time which it was not designed to, and you know... mpg... I don't feel having the posi-lock thing either (though I saw some good ideas and I'm generally for such things...) I just want to have it SIMPLE. no extra handles, buttons, nothing. Used to strip my bikes too of all the fancy bits.
As we have fairly tough winters and I do not have a garage I decided to install an electric water heater. Did the job in October, but I did not like the routing of the pipes. Now the pump/heater shall be under the expansion tank of the engine (J8s engine has pressurized cooling). But... which direction the coolant is moving? I seem to have 2 pipes coming from the cyl head both connected to the heater core and the lower also connected to the water pump. (plus whatever waterways are inside) the heater pump will be inserted before the heating matrix. Will Put some pictures soon.
Second: vacuum system: see... I wanted a jeep with no electrics or fancy vacuum system for the 4wheel drive. Looking at the interior it seemed all mechanical, massive handle, metal everywhere.
I was mistaken. There is the CAD. I'd like to eliminate all the unneeded bits, like 4wd light (no such thing on my dash... where it supposed to be??) some cut vacuum tubes (maybe prepared for a non-existent aircon?) loads of vacuum check valves....
Never worked on vacuum system so i'ts kinda new to me. I can trace the tube from the engine to the brake booster, and vacuum reservoir. Connected with a T junction there is a big thing, looking like a biggish check valve, and a cylindrical thing, looking like a big capacitor. I have not found anything about those... what are they for??
How can I check the vacuum system working? Put my finger on the tube? I'd keep the CAD as locking the axle will make my front end turning all the time which it was not designed to, and you know... mpg... I don't feel having the posi-lock thing either (though I saw some good ideas and I'm generally for such things...) I just want to have it SIMPLE. no extra handles, buttons, nothing. Used to strip my bikes too of all the fancy bits.
02-25-2017, 09:51 AM
#3
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02-25-2017, 02:33 PM
#4
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Welcome to CF! Overall condition doesn't look so bad from the photos! Though I'm wondering about the fuel hose resting on the brake cylinder.
Indeed the 2.1L Renault diesel did not enjoy widespread adoption on this side of the Atlantic. It was only sold here in Jeeps in 1985 and 1986. I think more of them made it into Winnebago mobile homes!
Aside from the engine your 1990 is very similar to the rest of that era. 1987-1990 had a Renault/Bendix system called "Renix". So if you're looking for information other than the engine, anything labelled "Renix" will apply to you.
For example, that stupid vacuum axle: You are correct that it is mechanically shifted. The vacuum disconnect is an auxiliary mechanism, very unreliable, and was discontinued sometime during 1991. You can safely bypass it by permanently locking the shift collar in place with no impact to fuel economy. Do a search for the "free D30 CAD bypass" mod. Then you'll have some vacuum lines you can safely remove
Oh, and funnily enough, the wife and I just picked up a package of Pazcki
Indeed the 2.1L Renault diesel did not enjoy widespread adoption on this side of the Atlantic. It was only sold here in Jeeps in 1985 and 1986. I think more of them made it into Winnebago mobile homes!
Aside from the engine your 1990 is very similar to the rest of that era. 1987-1990 had a Renault/Bendix system called "Renix". So if you're looking for information other than the engine, anything labelled "Renix" will apply to you.
For example, that stupid vacuum axle: You are correct that it is mechanically shifted. The vacuum disconnect is an auxiliary mechanism, very unreliable, and was discontinued sometime during 1991. You can safely bypass it by permanently locking the shift collar in place with no impact to fuel economy. Do a search for the "free D30 CAD bypass" mod. Then you'll have some vacuum lines you can safely remove
Oh, and funnily enough, the wife and I just picked up a package of Pazcki
Last edited by salad; 02-25-2017 at 03:02 PM.
03-06-2017, 11:26 AM
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Engine: 2.1td oilburner
Enjoy Paczki! Are they doughnuts? This is how they call 'em here.
Thanks for the hint with "renix" I did find a few things.
Regarding CAD removal: I'd prefer to keep it, my drivetrain seems to have seen a lot. Would be better to keep 'em shafts resting as much as they can. Worries about extensive wear or vibrations... I read both con and pro.
But for a test I'll lock it in, just to see how it behaves.
So I reconnected the vacuums and put that side of the project to a rest. Battling with the "rat nest" as someone very aptly put it on this forum. Referring to the wires around the battery.
Looks like I have a different alternator, instead of the bold-on field connector I had a wire running from the alternator and just bolted into the connector... loose and rather disgusting... Also some of the fusible links have gone some time ago, and some barbaric soul fixed the whole thing together with good 'ole insulating tape.
I'm not against roadside repairs, mind me, but I have decided to put some order into this department.
So hunted down a battery circuit breaker box from some other car (a Hyundai as it turns out), a pretty black box with 5 circuit breakers in it.
Today I played with the red wires. I find it funny, that many of them were in pairs, 2.5mm wires (10-12AWG) connected to 1 RED fusible link. (I suppose red, this is what the very few schematics say) That is about a 50A fuse, and the electrician in me is wondering what 35A running through that red wire which seemingly only powers the central lock would do...)
Probably the whole system is repaired way beyond recognition, but without a full schematic for the 2.1td I'll play it by the ear.
(rewired some cars, bike, none burnt out)
Any idea what the red wire going FOREWARD would power? There is nothing there up front which would not be switched from the dash. Apart of the cooling fan which had it's own obviously home-improvised wiring. I can't find connectors, or anything like that loose around the bumper, so I stand wexed looking at this all-the-time powered red wire going foreward.
Disconnected it and voila, nothing happened.
So far the following had been done or in progress:
- removing all tubes and replacing some, re-routing some, actually tightening the clamps
- installed an electric water heater for the cold mornings
- new engine oil and filter
- new left frontlight (ordered one to the right side as well. Very cheap and makes hell of a difference)
- driver seat had broken mounts, removed, welded, now paint is drying on it.
- tranny oil, rear diff oil. (front diff is still to be finished)
- disconnected and reconnected the CAD, aka, every day something new to learn
- replaced some vacuum tubes
- trying to create some order around the battery
- removed the plastic cover from between the seats (refilled the tranny from the top because I could not remove the filler plug)... decided to leave it off. Will fix the carpet later, and make some leather skirts for the shifter, handbrake, 4wd handles... I like the extra space. Simplicity.. plus less broken plastic in the interior.
Are they doughnuts? This is how they call 'em here.Thanks for the hint with "renix" I did find a few things.
Regarding CAD removal: I'd prefer to keep it, my drivetrain seems to have seen a lot. Would be better to keep 'em shafts resting as much as they can. Worries about extensive wear or vibrations... I read both con and pro.
But for a test I'll lock it in, just to see how it behaves.
So I reconnected the vacuums and put that side of the project to a rest. Battling with the "rat nest" as someone very aptly put it on this forum. Referring to the wires around the battery.
Looks like I have a different alternator, instead of the bold-on field connector I had a wire running from the alternator and just bolted into the connector... loose and rather disgusting... Also some of the fusible links have gone some time ago, and some barbaric soul fixed the whole thing together with good 'ole insulating tape.
I'm not against roadside repairs, mind me, but I have decided to put some order into this department.
So hunted down a battery circuit breaker box from some other car (a Hyundai as it turns out), a pretty black box with 5 circuit breakers in it.
Today I played with the red wires. I find it funny, that many of them were in pairs, 2.5mm wires (10-12AWG) connected to 1 RED fusible link. (I suppose red, this is what the very few schematics say) That is about a 50A fuse, and the electrician in me is wondering what 35A running through that red wire which seemingly only powers the central lock would do...)
Probably the whole system is repaired way beyond recognition, but without a full schematic for the 2.1td I'll play it by the ear.
(rewired some cars, bike, none burnt out)
Any idea what the red wire going FOREWARD would power? There is nothing there up front which would not be switched from the dash. Apart of the cooling fan which had it's own obviously home-improvised wiring. I can't find connectors, or anything like that loose around the bumper, so I stand wexed looking at this all-the-time powered red wire going foreward.
Disconnected it and voila, nothing happened.
So far the following had been done or in progress:
- removing all tubes and replacing some, re-routing some, actually tightening the clamps
- installed an electric water heater for the cold mornings
- new engine oil and filter
- new left frontlight (ordered one to the right side as well. Very cheap and makes hell of a difference)
- driver seat had broken mounts, removed, welded, now paint is drying on it.
- tranny oil, rear diff oil. (front diff is still to be finished)
- disconnected and reconnected the CAD, aka, every day something new to learn
- replaced some vacuum tubes
- trying to create some order around the battery
- removed the plastic cover from between the seats (refilled the tranny from the top because I could not remove the filler plug)... decided to leave it off. Will fix the carpet later, and make some leather skirts for the shifter, handbrake, 4wd handles... I like the extra space. Simplicity.. plus less broken plastic in the interior.
03-07-2017, 06:21 AM
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The CAD elimination does not have a downside or concern, except it can leave you stranded with no 4WD.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/
CAD STINKS
The big issue is that the CAD system only fails when you need it the most.
Kinda like when you don't realize your wiper blades need replacing until it rains....
I know somebody’s system works and he advocates keeping it stock, but my exposure to the failures is probably hundreds of times greater than his, as a result of being Service Manager at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992, and being a current XJ and MJ owner.
CAD stinks. Every Jeep I work on with it, I eliminate it. Guess what I find in the process? 25 year old busted vacuum lines, bloated vacuum line connectors, bad vacuum reservoirs and piping, bad transfer case vacuum switches. In other words, had the person gotten into a sticky situation and needed 4WD, they would have been screwed!!!
That's the tip of the iceberg. The factory went through 3 revisions of the shift fork also. The fork issue is non-existent if you just slide it over and leave it.
See the link below for complete instructions. Takes less than 1/2 hour.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fre...ss-91-a-38629/
,
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/
CAD STINKS
The big issue is that the CAD system only fails when you need it the most.
Kinda like when you don't realize your wiper blades need replacing until it rains....
I know somebody’s system works and he advocates keeping it stock, but my exposure to the failures is probably hundreds of times greater than his, as a result of being Service Manager at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992, and being a current XJ and MJ owner.
CAD stinks. Every Jeep I work on with it, I eliminate it. Guess what I find in the process? 25 year old busted vacuum lines, bloated vacuum line connectors, bad vacuum reservoirs and piping, bad transfer case vacuum switches. In other words, had the person gotten into a sticky situation and needed 4WD, they would have been screwed!!!
That's the tip of the iceberg. The factory went through 3 revisions of the shift fork also. The fork issue is non-existent if you just slide it over and leave it.
See the link below for complete instructions. Takes less than 1/2 hour.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fre...ss-91-a-38629/
,
03-07-2017, 07:40 AM
#7
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Ok, I'm getting convinced.
I bought the jeep partially out of necessity.
Let me explain.:
Always liked the looks, this box shaped machoness. But always found it way too extravagant for my otherwise very realistic motoring tastes. In other words, I could not justify buying a 2.2 ton truck consuming 10L/100km when all I needed was to get to work or shop. Used to own a tiny Suzuki swift, 1L engine with LPG on it. (Geo Metro in US) That was the scroogiest motoring you can imagine. It was barely moving, but hell, for a price of a bicycle.
Then because I needed a tow bar plus some extra space for building material (been renovating old houses as "hobby" for 5 years now) I bought a 1.9D Citroen, again weak, but takes 5 liters for a 100km stretch of road.
But then.
Bought my new house (some would call it an old ramshackle) up on a steep hill, without tarmac.
Yes!
Finally what I was waiting for! A good REASON for buying some heavy metal.
So enters our hero, the Jeep. I love the shape, the simplicity, the space inside, and that it can swallow a EURpalett with 500kg rooftiles on it and will politely ask for more.
And in the first snowy day I went up my muddy dirttrack access road with an obscene grin on my face with the shifter in 4L.
So, just to explain the reasons for owning it.
And after this intermezzo, let me turn back to our topic, CAD:
sometimes, - actually quite often -, after shifting into 4H "on the fly" or into 4L standing still or crawling, or rolling backwards, it jumps out of 4WD.
Wipes off the obscene pride from my face like nothing. Rear tires spinning, car skidding to a halt.
Swearing,
Shift into 4H, 4L, gearbox in neutral, clutch released, roll back, 4L again, so on...
Sometimes It went up without a problem (so 4WD worked)
Sometimes It was popping out, making me fight for my chance to go up with the car. (not on foot)
Mind me, always made it to the top (my house is on the top). But it's certainly not something I'd call reliable 4WD.
Now, would this be something in the transfer case, or the CAD?
Now that the city had done me a favor and paved the road I often went up in 4H (no point forcing the 2.1TD in 4H, but it goes up...) and shifting "on the fly" sometimes made popping noises from the front. Like the front axle did not like the idea.
It seems like that the 4WD does not fully engage at times, but once it does it works, no trouble then. For me, it sounds like the CAD. What do you say?
I bought the jeep partially out of necessity.
Let me explain.:
Always liked the looks, this box shaped machoness. But always found it way too extravagant for my otherwise very realistic motoring tastes. In other words, I could not justify buying a 2.2 ton truck consuming 10L/100km when all I needed was to get to work or shop.
Used to own a tiny Suzuki swift, 1L engine with LPG on it. (Geo Metro in US) That was the scroogiest motoring you can imagine. It was barely moving, but hell, for a price of a bicycle.Then because I needed a tow bar plus some extra space for building material (been renovating old houses as "hobby" for 5 years now) I bought a 1.9D Citroen, again weak, but takes 5 liters for a 100km stretch of road.
But then.
Bought my new house (some would call it an old ramshackle) up on a steep hill, without tarmac.
Yes!
Finally what I was waiting for! A good REASON for buying some heavy metal.
So enters our hero, the Jeep. I love the shape, the simplicity, the space inside, and that it can swallow a EURpalett with 500kg rooftiles on it and will politely ask for more.
And in the first snowy day I went up my muddy dirttrack access road with an obscene grin on my face with the shifter in 4L.
So, just to explain the reasons for owning it.
And after this intermezzo, let me turn back to our topic, CAD:
sometimes, - actually quite often -, after shifting into 4H "on the fly" or into 4L standing still or crawling, or rolling backwards, it jumps out of 4WD.
Wipes off the obscene pride from my face like nothing. Rear tires spinning, car skidding to a halt.
Swearing,
Shift into 4H, 4L, gearbox in neutral, clutch released, roll back, 4L again, so on...
Sometimes It went up without a problem (so 4WD worked)
Sometimes It was popping out, making me fight for my chance to go up with the car. (not on foot)
Mind me, always made it to the top (my house is on the top). But it's certainly not something I'd call reliable 4WD.
Now, would this be something in the transfer case, or the CAD?
Now that the city had done me a favor and paved the road I often went up in 4H (no point forcing the 2.1TD in 4H, but it goes up...) and shifting "on the fly" sometimes made popping noises from the front. Like the front axle did not like the idea.
It seems like that the 4WD does not fully engage at times, but once it does it works, no trouble then. For me, it sounds like the CAD. What do you say?
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03-07-2017, 07:49 AM
#8
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
I say eliminate the CAD, check your engine and trans mounts, and then adjust the transfer case linkage:
03-07-2017, 07:02 PM
#9
Seasoned Member
I would love to own the diesel Cherokee. Good find!
I'm an advocate of the center axle disconnect system, personally. I keep my vacuum lines in very good shape, and it has never failed me. I have an automatic locker in the front axle, and wouldn't know it was there until the front axle engages while in 4WD. And, when I was using it for commuting prior to building it up, it did help reduce parasitic loss and slightly increase the fuel mileage. I would really like the larger universal joints, but am happy with it the way it is.
I'm an advocate of the center axle disconnect system, personally. I keep my vacuum lines in very good shape, and it has never failed me. I have an automatic locker in the front axle, and wouldn't know it was there until the front axle engages while in 4WD. And, when I was using it for commuting prior to building it up, it did help reduce parasitic loss and slightly increase the fuel mileage. I would really like the larger universal joints, but am happy with it the way it is.
03-08-2017, 02:22 PM
#10
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.1td oilburner
Fair point, Engine mounts...
When I removed the plastic landscape from the middle, I have noticed, that the gearshift is not coming up in the middle of that 10inch round hole, but rather slipped 1-2 inches to the right. I'm not sure that's how it supposed to be...
The car is lifted, and I'm pretty sure whoever lifted it did it on budget. So I'd not be horribly surprised to find, that some stuff is there to adjust. (Firstly I need to lower it a bit, my local trailer rental refused giving a trailer... the tow bar is way too high now)
Thank you for information about CAD.
Just took the car to test ride after all the fixes, maintenance. And yes, I've lost 4wd. Did I have to play with the CAD, yeah? I had to. Now it's just a big 2wd wagon.
When I removed the plastic landscape from the middle, I have noticed, that the gearshift is not coming up in the middle of that 10inch round hole, but rather slipped 1-2 inches to the right. I'm not sure that's how it supposed to be...
The car is lifted, and I'm pretty sure whoever lifted it did it on budget. So I'd not be horribly surprised to find, that some stuff is there to adjust. (Firstly I need to lower it a bit, my local trailer rental refused giving a trailer... the tow bar is way too high now)
Thank you for information about CAD.
Just took the car to test ride after all the fixes, maintenance. And yes, I've lost 4wd. Did I have to play with the CAD, yeah? I had to. Now it's just a big 2wd wagon.
03-08-2017, 02:34 PM
#11
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Engine: 2.1td oilburner
some pictures of the work done so far
Most proud of the electric box. Starting feels faster too.
Ok, I'm not the best welder on the best of days... But it holds!
03-08-2017, 04:05 PM
#12
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Fair point, Engine mounts...
When I removed the plastic landscape from the middle, I have noticed, that the gearshift is not coming up in the middle of that 10inch round hole, but rather slipped 1-2 inches to the right. I'm not sure that's how it supposed to be...
The car is lifted, and I'm pretty sure whoever lifted it did it on budget. So I'd not be horribly surprised to find, that some stuff is there to adjust. (Firstly I need to lower it a bit, my local trailer rental refused giving a trailer... the tow bar is way too high now)
Thank you for information about CAD.
Just took the car to test ride after all the fixes, maintenance. And yes, I've lost 4wd. Did I have to play with the CAD, yeah? I had to. Now it's just a big 2wd wagon.
When I removed the plastic landscape from the middle, I have noticed, that the gearshift is not coming up in the middle of that 10inch round hole, but rather slipped 1-2 inches to the right. I'm not sure that's how it supposed to be...
The car is lifted, and I'm pretty sure whoever lifted it did it on budget. So I'd not be horribly surprised to find, that some stuff is there to adjust. (Firstly I need to lower it a bit, my local trailer rental refused giving a trailer... the tow bar is way too high now)
Thank you for information about CAD.
Just took the car to test ride after all the fixes, maintenance. And yes, I've lost 4wd. Did I have to play with the CAD, yeah? I had to. Now it's just a big 2wd wagon.
03-09-2017, 09:00 AM
#15
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.1td oilburner
Hahaha! I must confess, I had no idea of the existence of CAD... So when I found some loose, unused vacuumpipes, I decided to get rid of the unnecessary stuff.
During this process I started to weed out some very much necessary elements of the vacuum system. Reconnected what I thought needed, but apparently the picture is not right yet. Upps.
