Here's the story;
Bought a 99xj with a blown engine, replaced it with another 4.0 from a 96. Finished up one night and fired it up for a minute. Ran for a minute, I was satisfied and called it a night. The next day I started it, pulled it out if the garage and heard a vacuum leak, re attached the hose then it stalled. Couldn't get it running after that. Borrowed a scan tool and it displays this code p1698... I feel that it's either a loose connection or a blown fuse(on account of it starting and running fine for a few minutes. Also the amber light that is a crossed out key is on solid with key on engine off after attempting to start it. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

P1698 can be hard to resolve.


That crossed out key icon is the Sentry Key Immobilizer light. It comes on when an attempt is made to start the Jeep when the system is armed or there is a failure in the system. A failed Immobilizer module, key, or PCM will prevent the engine from starting, or corrupt the CCD Bus (P1698).


Do you have the Sentry Key Immobilizer? If your ignition key looks like the one in the pic below you have it. This key is gray, the regular key is black and is more square.

 

It's definitely a sentry key. It ran for a little bit, but then shut down. I talked to a former Chrysler tech who said as long as it's the right key it shouldn't need reprogramming once the p1698 is rectified. Today I'm going to check the wiring and grounds.

 

Provided the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) is not causing the CCD Bus problem.


If you have a digital Volt/Ohmmeter you can check the status of the CCD Bus from the Data Link Connector. See pic. Note that the SKIM is on the bus.


Do the voltages checks.


Set your voltmeter to the 20 VDC scale.


Turn the ignition switch to RUN.


Touch DLC pin cavity 3 with the meter (+) probe and pin cavity 4 or 5 with the (-) probe. You should see around 2.5 volts.


Repeat, touching pin cavity 11 (+). Again, you should see around 2.5 volts.


If you don't see the 2.5 volts something is dragging the bus down.





Note that pin cavities 4 and 5 are grounded at the oil dipstick tube bracket stud.

 

FYI: The SKIM fuse is in the PDC. See pic.

 

would it have ran for a few minutes before the skim activated and shut it down? i heard that it will start and run for a second when the skim is functioning, mine turns over but has no spark. In addition to the DLC ground i heard to check the grounds connected to the coil bracket as they are for the PCM. The one has a slap-dash repair and is my primary suspect in the matter. Does the order in which the lights come on indicate the cause?

 

The PCM communicates with the SKIM at engine start attempt. It will do this several times and if there is an attempt to start the engine with the wrong key the light on the dash will flash. If the light on the dash stays on steady, the PCM has detected a fault in the SKIS and it will store a fault.

If a fault is stored in SKIM memory which prevents the system from operating properly, the PCM will allow the engine to start and run (for 2 seconds) up to six times. After the sixth attempt, the PCM disables the starter relay until the fault is corrected.


If the starter circuit functions (engine cranks over) the PCM has not disabled the starter relay because of the SKIS. If your dash light is on steady there is a fault in the SKIS.


The PCM will kill the ASD relay and the Fuel Pump relay if it doesn't see an engine rotation signal from the CPS within two seconds, regardless of SKIS activity.


Refer to the PDC pic I posted above and check the SKIM fuse.


Is your instrument cluster inop? If so, you may also want to check fuse #9 in the Junction Block.


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If you have buggered up wiring at the coil mount studs you should fix it before proceeding.


Here's a pic of ground G101 (coil mount) and the systems it grounds.





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What do you mean by "Does the order in which the lights come on indicate the cause? "


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Can you do the CCD Bus checks I outlined above?

 

Fixed the grounds, 2.45 volts when tested with (+) on 3 and 11.

 

That 2.45 volts looks good.


What else did you do besides "Fixing the grounds".


Did fixing the grounds fix anything?

 

Got it running. The lights went out after the grounds were repaired correctly. After a few failed starting attempts I discovered the crank sensor had been damaged. Replaced it and it started right up. Thanks for the help.