Hi all,
1996 Cherokee w/ 4.0, AW4, 2wd, 130k miles

I’ve been having some unpredictable shifting issues in my Cherokee lately. When accelerating from 0-45 or so, the torque converter will sometimes lock, then unlock about a 1/4 mile down the road while cruising on flat ground or downhill, or sometimes not even lock and almost feel like bucking coming from the rear axle as if the tc is trying to lock. The transmission *most of the time* will shift smoothly 1st-tc lockup, but after driving for 20 or so minutes this will happen. After this happens, if I were to stop at a stoplight and come to a complete stop, it will then smoothly go through all gears as well as torque converter lockup. 90% of the time when I try to cruise on the highway at 60-65 mph, a similar issue will happen but it will then shift down into what feels like 3rd gear and I will be running around 3k+ rpms at 60 mph. Again, after a 20+ minute drive on main roads stopping at stoplights, it will shift from 1-2, then downshift back into 1 for no apparent reason (not heavy acceleration) then shift back into 2-3, etc. All of these will mostly happen on drives 20-30+ minutes long.If I pull over, turn off the Jeep and turn it back on, it’s completely fine and the problems seem to go away

I have attempted to test all transmission solenoids from the tcm plug under the dash and all 3 solenoids are ~12 amps (give or take a few 10ths), I checked the brake light switch and it was correctly making contact with the brake pedal, I inspected and used electrical cleaner on the plugs at the tcm and dipstick in the engine bay, I adjusted the kickdown cable on the throttle body multiple times to no avail, I tested the tps through its entire range and it was smooth from closed to wot, and I even tried swapping in a new tcm. All things tested were within spec to what I’ve read on other forums and the new tcm did not change anything either. I also unplugged the tcm and shifting the transmission manually and it shifting through all the gears smooth. My only worry is that I tested all of these while the Jeep was cold and maybe the outputs are completely different when warm.

Currently, the tab on the throttle position sensor plug is broken and held on with a zip tie, so someone has most likely replaced the tps before me. My jeep was made in February 1996, so I believe it has the upgraded OBD2 plug on the tps. I also can’t find a mopar tps that is a guaranteed fit for my jeep online that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I’m thinking maybe water and heat are making my tps do some funky shifting.

My question is if I would be able to splice in a new pigtail and swap in a tps from a 97-01 since I have the updated OBD2 plug and they’re abundant online and at the junkyards around me. If that swap isn’t doable, would I be able to swap the tps from a 4.0 zj or a 4.0 wrangler with the same plug? Or do those tps give different inputs and mess with my computer.

 

I've got the same problem on my 96. Research says it's the TPS, but I haven't changed mine yet. I bought a mopar TPS, but it doesn't match my plug. I either have OBD2 or I don't, and I haven't made the time to figure it out yet. I'm really curious if a 97+ TPS plus pigtail will work.

 

there is absolutely no reason you cannot just cut the new sensor plug and literally wire it into the remaining plug, strip and solder wires, leaving lug intact, or even cut both plugs and use generic

You must ensure the resistance range of the replacement TPS is the same for whatever year you have (should be)

 

I'm about 99% sure the TPS is identical and it's just the plug that changed. Wrangler or ZJ might have a different throttle body and it might not bolt up though. It's just a voltage divider so even the resistance range shouldn't matter much. I'd be tempted to buy a cheap TPS to swap just to see if the problem changes.

 

I second that. Sometimes the Parts Cannon is the right weapon

Thats where used Mopar OEM sensors can come in handy, especially if they come straight off a truck that runs ( I order a Spare, usually from Rock Auto to keep the Spare parts truck running..and test new sensors))

 

The risk of firing the parts cannon is assuming the new parts are good and not realizing you added to the problem. Hence my suggestion to temporarily swap to see if the problem changes.

 

I’ll buy a cheap tps from autozone for now to see if it fixes the problem temporarily or makes it worse. As for the connector, would I be able to depin the tps connector and I guess “pin” in the wires into the new connector or is it not worth the effort and time (as in just cut it off and splice on a new connector).

Next time I go to the junkyard, I’ll test to see if a wrangler or ZJ tps will bolt up to an XJ throttle body just to test the theory

 

Been looking for months for a new connector for the tps after finally tracking down a mopar tps at a dealership nearby. I have the connector of the pre-obd2 tps (early 1996 build date) sensor and cannot find the connector ANYWHERE online. All I can find is 84-90 and 97-01, a gap from 91-96. There also aren’t any junkyards with a 91-96 xj to cut a connector off of. It’s like the connector never exists, no part number, no mentions of where to find, and a few dead end forums that mention it. Would a zj tps connector work or is it a year-specific connector to 1996?

 

Just cut the wires and join them with ordinary spade clips if the issue is causing you that much trouble

My TC problem was in the trans harness itself, right where it penetrates the top of the case

I cut the wire and ran a thin 5A wire direct to the solenoid, between gasket & pan

That fixed the issue

 

Despite many people complaining about DeadJeep.com, you might see if they'd snip a connector off and mail it.

 

Found a tps connector from a 93 zj at the junkyard that worked. Spliced it in and put in a new mopar tps and now the torque converter locks up less frequently?? Is hacking into the transmission harness the next step like awg recommended or replacing shift solenoids?

 

You can probably just strip a splice off the cable without cutting it.

The TC lockup solenoid is different to the others and works in the opposite way.

Its VERY difficult to hear it go "click" like the others

If the harness/solenoid shows resistance of ~ 14 Ohms, measured from the connector beside the dipstick, I would assume it is ok

If not, drop the pan, and do what I did, its very easy

With the pan down, you can remove and inspect the solenoid, If it looks burned, you will need a new one, if not, bear in mind "new" is not necessarily better than old. Dont throw it away !

dropping the pan is a nuisance, but use thin wire, 5A its about 1/32" thick, doesnt worry gasket, put a 5A fuse inline

 

I'm having the exact same issues with my 96 AW4 at 108k miles. I swapped my tps and it didn't change anything. I will say there is a difference between the original sensor and the obd2 updated sensor. I got the wrong one by mistake at first, it fits but the internals are more recessed into the housing on the newer version.I have the older plug on mine.

 

Just wondering, but after you swapped the tps did you reset the ecu?

 

I did after my last post to this forum and it’s actually shifting much better and haven’t had any issues (so far)!