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1990 xj long crank time and hard starting

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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 02:04 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

The fuel pump ballast resistor was engineered to provide lower voltage to the fuel pump to reduce the "hissing/whining" noise that customers found objectionable. They can be eliminated/bypassed but be prepared for a louder fuel pump noise. And, if they fail, you get NO fuel pump operation.
Ya know I kinda like the hissing/whining. Let's me know that thing is back there working.....
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 03:35 AM
  #32  
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U said it right on the very first post... the most common problem with a hard start is the chsck valve built into the fuel pump... Go buy a $3 check valve for a fuel line and itll ne fine...
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:29 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Slick761
Ya know I kinda like the hissing/whining. Let's me know that thing is back there working.....
I agree. OK, do we or don't we have spark? Is it still just long crank times? If so, priming the system with a few "key-ons" should tell us if that's it.

I wanna know how much AC voltage the new CPS is putting out. Needs to be .5 AC volts upon cranking.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:35 AM
  #34  
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Use starting fluid to determine if its fuel or electronic related...
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 12:00 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I agree. OK, do we or don't we have spark? Is it still just long crank times? If so, priming the system with a few "key-ons" should tell us if that's it.

I wanna know how much AC voltage the new CPS is putting out. Needs to be .5 AC volts upon cranking.

the key ons dont work i was trying this for a while with no success... at first i thought it was a fuel problem because it had spark and i could spray some TB cleaner down the throttle body and it would start but then checked my fuel pressure and it was fine. then the other night when it pulled its little stunt again i figured ok spray somthun down the TB it'll fire right up wrong. sounded like it wasnt getting spark checkd my plugs and just as i thought nothing. checked my coil getting power in and out so i figure it was the stator/cam position sensor so i bought a new distributor because it was cheaper than the sensor itself put it in and fired right up but then after driving for a bit blew a radiator house came home changed it out and it wouldnt start again waited a minute started right up. i might have fixed it and something got wet or possible vapor lock? but doesnt it have to get purrty hot for that? going to see if the problem continues but now after the little incident earlier it started right up every time
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 01:29 AM
  #36  
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Gotta be a problem with ckp. I've heard of em not quite sitting right
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:48 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Slick761
Gotta be a problem with ckp. I've heard of em not quite sitting right
I would like to see a CPS AC voltage reading when this thing acts up.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

I would like to see a CPS AC voltage reading when this thing acts up.
People have replaced em and still had trouble with em.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Slick761
People have replaced em and still had trouble with em.
im thinking thats what is but my meter crapped out so i have no way of checking it because at this very moment its not starting and its not getting spark again i have power into the coil and out but nothing to the plugs wire loke good rotor and cap look good so it has to be the damn cps sensor because thats what tell the computer to initiate everything right?
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #40  
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If you could get a meter from Harbor freight for $5, it might help set you straight. I forget if you checked that wiring plug by the back of the valve cover to the CPS. That connection needs to be good.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 13, 2011 at 05:56 PM. Reason: "wiring"
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 04:47 PM
  #41  
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I just got a PM from someone on this forum telling me they had a CPS that tested good for ohms. Tested it for AC voltage and got a reading of .3 AC volts. Replaced sensor with one from Vatozone and it still wouldn't start. The replacement tested at .2 AC volts.

Point is the ohms test is crap and can send you on a wild goose chase when you've got an underperforming CPS.

Second point is that not all replacemnt parts are of good quality and you should never assume they are.

Last edited by cruiser54; Oct 13, 2011 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #42  
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Crank sensor = Jeep part ONLY.

This comes from the school of hard knocks. Aftermarket crank sensors are hit and miss and even if they do work out of the box, their longevity is nowhere near what a factory sensor will be. I highly recommend that the crank sensor be purchased only from Jeep. This from a guy who buys PLENTY of aftermarket parts.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #43  
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so autozone swapped out my cps sensor i know i should go get one from jeep but i dont want to throw money at buying the same sensor again and not fixing it im so fed up with it at this point and the newest thing is it has been randomly dieing and not wanting to start pull out a spark plug to see if im getting spark put it back in fires right up what the hell? could all this be related to a bad cell on the battery even though when i had it tested it was good? am i just not getting proper voltage? is there some kind of voltage regulator? or possibly the ASD? which would make sense why sometime i have spark and ohter times i dont and why after a little while it will start back up
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #44  
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Test the new CPS for AC voltage. It could be bad. Also if you combine a weak CPS with low cranking speeds, it might not start. Did you see my post above about the weak CPS signal from a new CPS?

PS. Could you please use punctuation in your posts.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #45  
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sorry about the punctuation i kinda get on a role and forget about it. Anyways the the cps sensor i returned to autozone and got one from the dealer stilll didnt fix the problem. I also have upgraded my terminals and got a new battery and the hard starting has gotten a bit better but now on top of the hard starting it has been randomly cutting out. so i replaced the ASD relay still didnt fix it. Checked the fuel pump relay by plug and play and didnt affect anything also went through all my grounds again all of them are making good contact. I just dont get it. has anyone heard about the bolts on the computer being to long and it grounding out or getting hot or something? im willing to try anything im at wits end and just want it fixed i would take it to the stealership if i had the cash
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