Well, I'm at a loss people. I feel like I'm just throwing parts at it now. All of it started when I was changing my oil, and doing other checkups. I knocked a connection off of the ceramic fuel pump resistor. Found it after a while of looking and put it back on(Cranked it a few different times to find the problem). So a few days later I start to feel bad a response in my gas peddle and a slight shudder in my transmission when giving it gas. Now when I try to start it up it will try to turnover on the first cylinder and then it will click maybe 12 to 18 times and finally fire up(while it clicks I can see the fan on the from of the engine click over). So I went to work on it.

Things I've done so far:
-Got the battery tested (it tested fine)
-Checked my Battery cables (Decent shape)
-Checked my grounds (Even filed them down)
-New spark plugs
-New spark plug wires
-New Dis. cap
-New starter/solenoid(Other one tested fine, but I wanted a new one)
-New Starter relay(Put it in, but now the engine will only click and not run, put the old one back in and it goes back to clicking and then starting)
-Tried starting it in neutral just to be sure it is not the NSS(No effect)

I Found that if I take the small wire coming from the starter that runs the the relay and touch it to the Positive battery terminal wile the key is in the on position it will turn over and run just fine(now the only way to start it with the new relay in).

I Don't think it's a fuel deliver issue, because I'm able to start it just fine if I jump the starter.

So, What do you think? CPS sensor? Bad ignition switch? Bad connection from ignition switch to the relay? maybe got another bad relay from autosone? Thanks for checking it out. Just can't figure it our on my own from this point.

 

If it runs when you short it doubt its the cps. You already know that "new" relay is junk. I would start there. Read this thread and pay attention to what ET JEEP says:https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sta...-issues-29806/

 

Thanks EastBeast I'll check into it and get to testing

 

Try this:

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
　
　
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 11-28-2011

 

Thank you cruiser54, I'm going to try this tomorrow because it sounds like the issues I'm having (ie, Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal.) Seems like my engine is having issues syncing with my transmission and my shifting is off.

 

Do it, and don't take any shortcuts or assume a connection "looks" good. Every Renix Jeep needs this simple service performed at least once in it's lifetime. It's more critical than most people imagine.