By "HF", I meant Harbor freight. They are great! I have at least six of those $5 meters that quit one way or the other!

That price seems low. Anyway make sure it is for 87-90, not 91 on. Some of us think Echlin from Napa is OK. Anyway, not a part to scrimp on. No fun to change and supper crucial.

 

[QUOTE=cruiser54;2176134]Transfer case in N. Trans in P if it's an auto. Be sure it rolls freely a few feet before just taking off.[/QUOTE

The transmission wouldnt be in N too?

 

No. They specify that an auto be in P and manual in a forward gear. That's why you make sure it rolls by hand before taking off with it in tow.

From the owner's manual:

CAUTION:
It is necessary to follow these steps to be certain that the transfer case is fully in N before recreational towing to prevent damage to internal parts.

1. Shift transmission into N.
2. Shift transfer case lever into N.
3. Shift transmission into D and make sure there is no vehicle movement.
4. Turn ignition key to the unlocked OFF position.
5. Shift transmission into P

WARNING: With the transfer case in N position, the vehicle could roll unexpectedly. The parking brake should always be applied when the driver is not in the vehicle.

6. Attach vehicle to the tow vehicle with tow bar.

 

Looking to tow the jeep in this weekend, don't have a tow bar..just plan on using a tow strap and going slow. Hopefully it goes smoothly

 

Ride the break (a bit), and keep the rope taught! Experience here really helps. (Good luck there). The "snap" of the slack being taken up is your enemy there. (my CPS is putten out .4 ACV) ....

 

get this....jeep has been sitting for almost a year....put battery charger on it, try to crank nothing...then friend of mine that did some work on it told me that at one time he bypassed the tranmission crank sensor maybe which he told me was a danger because unit could start in gear...tried to put it in gear and crank and guess what...it cranked! Ran jeep around for a while...still not running good but you could tell it wanted to crank....drove it 10 miles into town to mechanic to drop off...something still not right but atleast we didnt have to tow it....Im guessing the CPS may be bad but that because its wired this way it still will crank?

 

Neutral safety switch is more likely what he "bypassed".

 

Could be..wouldnt that make a difference in trying to start in gear and all of the sudden it cranking?

 

Yeah. It's kinda hard to diagnose butchered wiring on a forum.

I posted that because there is no transmission crank sensor and you can't bypass an engine crank position sensor.

 

It was the neutral safety switch that was bypassed, just talked to the guy that worked on it.

We will see what the mechanic has to say, probably not worth putting too much $$$ back in this jeep so may be on the market.

 

So the starter goes and it cranks, then it starts and runs. A shop just might have a tough time since it takes a special scanner.

The MAP tube>

There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. (black smoke, fouled black plugs). You can pull the line off the MAP and feel for vacuum with your finger. If it runs!

The voltage from the CPS (our 87 to 90 are unique that way), and the plugs, dist/& wires are the most common issues. Checking the grounds, (see sensor grounds in Cruisers stuff), and fuel pressure also is good ...