7ate9

Hey guys one of my motor mounts is out on the driver side,and my transmission mount needs to be replaced. Does it matter which one I do first? I read something about-alignment issues if you do one or the other first? What's the best place to support the transmission while replacing the mount how much do I have to jack the tranny up in order to drop the bracket/crossmember.. Thanks for any and all help!

MonacaYankee

Don't have to jack up the transmission at all. Just get the jack and a piece of wood touching it. It will fall until it all the weight it on whatever you are supporting it with when you unbolt it. I would change the motor mount first. You might as well change the other side while you are at it. If you are going to change the motor mount first leave the crossmember and trans bolted.

7ate9

Totally makes sense thanks! Motor mounts should be easy only thing is on the passenger side I think my oil filter adapter is in the way, I have to replace the seal anyways..

MonacaYankee

They are easy as long as everything lines up right when the motor is lowered back into the new mount. Have a crow bar in case.

7ate9

Thank you !So grateful for this forum too
I was gona go with the polyurethane mounts for the transmission but don't want to take a chance of picking up any vibrations. And it's probably better to replace my RMS. While I'm at it..

MonacaYankee

Anything to do with the motor/trans mounts won't really help with the RMS.

I replaced my mounts with the cheap ones from rock auto. No problems in years. I had brown dogs motor mounts..vibrations..dash rattles...more rattles.

7ate9

Two choices here polyurethane or rubber.. my neighbor across the street Who used to work on Rockets now works on Jaguars and Land Rovers totally went against the polyurethane ones.

scottmphoto

Yeah, don't tighten up the motor mounts until you have both replaced. It makes lining up the bolt holes easier.

cruiser54

Stock mounts. Don't even THINK about rear main seal at this point. Not until the oil filter adapter seals are done.

Oil Filter Adapter O-Ring Sizes


87-90 Renix Model Orings

0.799 x 0.103 AS568 size -117
1.296 x 0.139 AS568 size -219
2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size –230

Dealer Part Numbers for Renix. Sold individually:

33002970, 33002971, 33002972

Renix kit from Crown Automotive-33002970K

91-01 HO Model Orings

0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017
0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212
2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230

7ate9

That's for that cruiser54 that was my next step. It's funny it doesn't leak a drop of oil on the driveway all the drippage that I get is blowing back from the oil filter adapter I'm pretty sure, and don't all RMS leak on our jeeps? Thanks for all the replies!

Larry's XJ

This ^^^ and be sure that valve cover isn't leaking at rear. As I've seen Cruiser point out, rear of engine is lowest point, and just like plumbing **it runs downhill. I'm somewhat lazy, unless the RMS leaked bad, or was rich enough to have a beautiful ceement driveway, that would be the last thing I would replace.

JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

extrashaky

I wouldn't bother. Just use the factory style rubber mount. If you DO decide to use poly, you need either poly engine mounts with a rubber transmission mount or vice versa. Do not go with poly front and rear, because you need at least one rubber point to avoid vibration issues.

If you're going to replace one engine mount, replace both. If you don't, you'll be back in there before you know it replacing the other one.

You have to loosen the transmission mount to replace the engine mounts, so you might as well go ahead and replace it first while you're under there, leave it loose while you're replacing the engine mounts and then tighten everything down once they're all in. Don't forget to go back under there and tighten it down, though.

And Brown Dog motor mounts are TEH MOST AWESOME MOUNTS EVAR!!!!111 But stock rubber motor mounts are fine and will keep the stock feel.