1989 Jeep XJ no turn signals
i have replaced the turn signal switch, and replaced the flashers and fuses, while driving home from work they quit working well i noticed if i wiggle the flasher it starts for about one flash and that’s it, could it be the connector?
Senior Member



Joined: May 2021
Posts: 560
Likes: 112
From: Western Washington
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
You replaced all those parts because the turn signals were not working right? If so, and they still don't work, it's possible the contacts at the flasher are bad, but more likely there is a bad ground or bad contacts at the bulbs. Does one side work better than the other - left or right? Do the 4 way flashers work?
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 7
From: Rowlett, Texas
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
When i had to get my flashers working it ended up being the small fuse box under the dash. Cleaned the terminals, tighten the contacts, and did cruisers tips for grounding and got it working. Pop a beer and with patience you'll get it
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 134
From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, the grounds at the rear of your Jeep could be corroded where they bolt to the chassis. Or even the wire/s could be broken or badly corroded where the wire is crimped to the crimp connector. Sometimes the plastic jacket can look ok, but the wire inside corroded to about 2-3 fine strands. Definitely worth a look. And your battery-to-chassis grounds under the hood by the battery. Yeah the fusebox/fuses too, as mentioned above. Possible the new switch is faulty as well. I've also seen where a 'pin' in the large switch connector can back out. It's going to take a little tracking down. Let us know what the problem was.
Last edited by Jeepwalker; Mar 17, 2023 at 02:42 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 473
Likes: 17
From: Western Washington
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can do a resistance check using the ground on your negative lead at the flasher with one lead, and a chassis ground on the other. The resistance reading should be 0ohms. if it's not, then ground issue. Next change your meter to read volts. connect one lead to your positive lead, other lead to chassis ground. you should read 12v. if you don't, it's the hot leg that is the problem. if both check fine, you have a switch problem. if BOTH check bad, you have connection issues at your fuse box. do the same at your fuse by pulling your fuse, check those leads both again. you are looking for the same indications. ground 0ohms, positive 12v. if either fail that simple test, just keep working backwards to find the issue.
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