Yes. Absolutely.

 

Got the CAD bypass done and so far (1 day) I haven't heard any front end noise.
I just plugged all 3 lines on the vacuum motor itself.
I was worried I'd cap the wrong one and the fork would try and move.
Sure would of liked to know if the vacuum lines were on right to begin with?
From left to right on the CAD on the axil it was white yellow and green.
On the transfer case there was yellow, green, blue, and red vacuum lines.

Under the hood (anti-freeze bottle) the green and yellow were side by side, the red one was on a T closest to the anti-freeze bottle and the white vacuum line on another T just lower.
The only one that never was connected was the blue (right next to the white vacuum line).
Just for peace of mind the blue one comes from the transfer case and where does it connect? I wonder if the Chilton's manual has the vacuum diagram?
Well if it's like a wiring diagram I probably can't understand it.
Sure would like my questions answered.
If any one knows I sure would appreciate it.
Thank you! ~John

 

Blue one is a vent. Connects to nothing.

You're worrying too much.

 

That makes sense that the blue vacuum line is the vent, since it has that black thing on the end is a check valve.
They sure runs things a long way to vent them.


Like the front differential on mine vents all the way to the top of the left fender.
Well I'm getting off track.
Thank you!~Everyone, I appreciate your time.
Driving the Jeep is more enjoyable in 4 wheel drive, not hearing that terrible noise.
It use to happen about 4 time just going up the hill.
It's been great working with you guys.

 

I cannot for the life of me get these e clips right. Got the one on the lock side out, slid locker over. Now stuck with one from the other groove and the big one on the end. Any suggestions on putting lip on end cause it's being a pita

 

See post 34

 

I got the clips in now trying to figure out why it won't engage. Plugged the t and still nothing. Tracing lines now

 

I haven't done the Mod, but was into one once. (it had the earlier, defective fork).

Of course you need to position the sleeve so the fork fit's into it....

 

Oh! engage.... If you jack up just the right wheel, the drive-shaft should turn when you turn the wheel. (With the T-case in 2wd or neutral). With the fork locked over, the vacuum no longer matters, but of course the linkage to the T-case does.

 

Somehow the fork popped off. Re seated it and removed all lines. She's golden now. The fittings were so loose that there was no way I could keep the hoses on so bypass was the way to go. Thanks for the help. Had to tweak it a little to line up screws and I think i must have knocked it off. So only a half hour screw up today. So far so good

 

Gotchya. Oil can get down there and they almost fall off by themselves! I was able to loop a large zip tie on mine, (around the rubber block) no problems since then.

Glad you got it, happy wheelen!

 

Yup. Too much room for failures. Ditch all that crap.

 

Hey Pete, neat tip there, whacking the tank with a 2X4, "Flintstone" gives you a "like" for that.

 

Good stuff. Worked a lot of the time.

 

Hi!~All, I did do the conversion and it was fine for a couple months.


Then last week I heard this noise while driving with it in 2 wheel drive.


So Saturday I pulled the 4 bolts to look at it again and it appears that the fork was still where it was suppose to be, but the collar was not over the 2 axils any more. So I moved it between the two.


It lasted for about to days, no noise and now this am it is back again.


Can the collar get out of position and the fork remain where it suppose to be?


Does any one know what's going on?


Could the fork not be over the collar?


Can the collar slip past the fork?


Thanks!~as always, John