1989 Cherokee Laredo-4 wheel drive problems.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 2
From: Roanoke, VA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I like my CAD for one simple reason. I have an Aussie locker in the front and don't want to listen to it and or feel it when turning in day to day driving.
As others have stated, there are a few things that can fail and leave you without 4wd.
I found on mine, after lifted, the lines wanted to pull off the vacuum actuator with the slightest mouse fart anywhere near it.
I bought that cable conversion kit thing, whatever it's called and will be installing it soon.
Again, only because I have an auto locker in the front and don't want to hear / feel it when driving in 2wd.
Right now I'm sure that my driveline is spinning at vehicle speeds in the front because of the locker and have noticed zero difference in MPG or the way it drives when in 2wd.
When I put it in 4wd with the locker there's ZERO question the moment that axle engages so I know when mine is working.
If you have no locker in the front, bypassing it IMO is the easiest / best thing to do.
As others have stated, there are a few things that can fail and leave you without 4wd.
I found on mine, after lifted, the lines wanted to pull off the vacuum actuator with the slightest mouse fart anywhere near it.
I bought that cable conversion kit thing, whatever it's called and will be installing it soon.
Again, only because I have an auto locker in the front and don't want to hear / feel it when driving in 2wd.
Right now I'm sure that my driveline is spinning at vehicle speeds in the front because of the locker and have noticed zero difference in MPG or the way it drives when in 2wd.
When I put it in 4wd with the locker there's ZERO question the moment that axle engages so I know when mine is working.
If you have no locker in the front, bypassing it IMO is the easiest / best thing to do.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The Jeeps with the 231 and 242 got the same fuel mileage.
And, there was no higher rate of front u-joint wear or transfer case wear. Probably why they ditched the system..............
And, there was no higher rate of front u-joint wear or transfer case wear. Probably why they ditched the system..............
What color are the vacuum lines for the CAD?
Where are these vacuum lines under the coolant bottle?
Mine seem to be hidden, except this blue vacuum line with the black fitting on the end. It might be for the CAD?
No one seems to know where it goes.
Thanks!~John
Where are these vacuum lines under the coolant bottle?
Mine seem to be hidden, except this blue vacuum line with the black fitting on the end. It might be for the CAD?
No one seems to know where it goes.
Thanks!~John
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
They should be there. There is a sort of large, (maybe 3/8") line running from your intake manifold, back to the firewall, across, then forward all the way to your vacuum ball in the front bumper. Buried down in there, not far from the E-vap canister & bottle, is a "Y" where vacuum is provided to the vacuum switch on the transfer case. That there might be one to cap off if you are eliminating the Disco. Myself, if I were eliminating it, I might find which line to the disco gets vacuum in 4WD, and rout that to the switch so I'd have a 4WD indicator light. Might save the day if someone not familiar with things is driving.
Ok! I am getting ready to go out and pull that vacuum axil motor off the passenger side.
Printed the CAD bypass write up, so I will keep in touch, if I have any problems.
Thanks!~ John
I am excited to see if this works and if I did any damage to the front end running it that way for so long. Yesterday I drove up my hill in 2 w d, have to speed (on snow & ice). The gravel road to my house is about 300 high and one quarter mi. long with curves. Glad I didn't meet any of my neighbors.
Printed the CAD bypass write up, so I will keep in touch, if I have any problems.
Thanks!~ John
I am excited to see if this works and if I did any damage to the front end running it that way for so long. Yesterday I drove up my hill in 2 w d, have to speed (on snow & ice). The gravel road to my house is about 300 high and one quarter mi. long with curves. Glad I didn't meet any of my neighbors.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ok! I am getting ready to go out and pull that vacuum axil motor off the passenger side.
Printed the CAD bypass write up, so I will keep in touch, if I have any problems.
Thanks!~ John
I am excited to see if this works and if I did any damage to the front end running it that way for so long. Yesterday I drove up my hill in 2 w d, have to speed (on snow & ice). The gravel road to my house is about 300 high and one quarter mi. long with curves. Glad I didn't meet any of my neighbors.
Printed the CAD bypass write up, so I will keep in touch, if I have any problems.
Thanks!~ John
I am excited to see if this works and if I did any damage to the front end running it that way for so long. Yesterday I drove up my hill in 2 w d, have to speed (on snow & ice). The gravel road to my house is about 300 high and one quarter mi. long with curves. Glad I didn't meet any of my neighbors.
Please! Tell me again...
Which color vacuum line do I plug and which ones do I leave hooked up?
The yellow and green are side by side under the anti-freeze bottle.
The white one goes to the "T" under the bottle.
Do I plug the steel lines or the vacuum lines themselves or both?
Which line lights up the 4x4 on the dash? Or how do I keep that working?
Remember I am old and simple. John THANKS!
Which color vacuum line do I plug and which ones do I leave hooked up?
The yellow and green are side by side under the anti-freeze bottle.
The white one goes to the "T" under the bottle.
Do I plug the steel lines or the vacuum lines themselves or both?
Which line lights up the 4x4 on the dash? Or how do I keep that working?
Remember I am old and simple. John THANKS!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Ha! That's funny. I'm getting simple myself. Cruiser is your guy here. Was my idea to have the light work, I haven't seen that anyone has done it yet. One line pulls it right, another pulls it left. Vacuum is shunted to the third, to the switch, when the collar has moved over. I'd put it in 4WD, and find which line on the disco is getting vacuum. (probably one of the pair), then connect that vacuum to the blue vacuum switch on the firewall below the coolant bottle. THEN, the remaining line will need to be capped, that's the one that keeps it pulled disengaged while it's in 2WD.
You could cap that right on the vacuum switch on the transfer case. Likewise you could run a new line from the port on the switch that has vacuum in 4WD, right to the switch.
OR, I think all the vacuum for the whole works comes from a "Y" on that large line off the intake, which is sort of buried down there near the Evap canister. If you just cap that, you will have no problems, and no dash light.
Waz just thinking....maybe pin the sleeve over first, and see what the light does. With all the lines intact, it just might come on when vacuum is applied to the disco's port by the transfer case switch. (That would mean when the lines got knocked off the disco, you would still have 4WD, but a vacuum leak and no light.
You could cap that right on the vacuum switch on the transfer case. Likewise you could run a new line from the port on the switch that has vacuum in 4WD, right to the switch.
OR, I think all the vacuum for the whole works comes from a "Y" on that large line off the intake, which is sort of buried down there near the Evap canister. If you just cap that, you will have no problems, and no dash light.
Waz just thinking....maybe pin the sleeve over first, and see what the light does. With all the lines intact, it just might come on when vacuum is applied to the disco's port by the transfer case switch. (That would mean when the lines got knocked off the disco, you would still have 4WD, but a vacuum leak and no light.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ha! That's funny. I'm getting simple myself. Cruiser is your guy here. Was my idea to have the light work, I haven't seen that anyone has done it yet. One line pulls it right, another pulls it left. Vacuum is shunted to the third, to the switch, when the collar has moved over. I'd put it in 4WD, and find which line on the disco is getting vacuum. (probably one of the pair), then connect that vacuum to the blue vacuum switch on the firewall below the coolant bottle. THEN, the remaining line will need to be capped, that's the one that keeps it pulled disengaged while it's in 2WD.
You could cap that right on the vacuum switch on the transfer case. Likewise you could run a new line from the port on the switch that has vacuum in 4WD, right to the switch.
OR, I think all the vacuum for the whole works comes from a "Y" on that large line off the intake, which is sort of buried down there near the Evap canister. If you just cap that, you will have no problems, and no dash light.
Waz just thinking....maybe pin the sleeve over first, and see what the light does. With all the lines intact, it just might come on when vacuum is applied to the disco's port by the transfer case switch. (That would mean when the lines got knocked off the disco, you would still have 4WD, but a vacuum leak and no light.
You could cap that right on the vacuum switch on the transfer case. Likewise you could run a new line from the port on the switch that has vacuum in 4WD, right to the switch.
OR, I think all the vacuum for the whole works comes from a "Y" on that large line off the intake, which is sort of buried down there near the Evap canister. If you just cap that, you will have no problems, and no dash light.
Waz just thinking....maybe pin the sleeve over first, and see what the light does. With all the lines intact, it just might come on when vacuum is applied to the disco's port by the transfer case switch. (That would mean when the lines got knocked off the disco, you would still have 4WD, but a vacuum leak and no light.

CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
If it's a line, you can just shove something in it, like a golf T. If it's a nipple, you can find a rubber cap that fits on it. (instead of the vacuum line)


