There's a guy in my club that has an lj on short arms with 14" travel shocks and his coils always pop out and get stuck places and actually broke his steering last time because the coil popped out and got wedged in there. He said he put like 6 coil retainers in and it still popped out. Maybe the big coil retainer plates might work, but other than that long arms is probably the best way to keep a coil in place. Bump stops in the bottom cup also help keep the coils in place. I don't have coil retainers in at the moment and have yet to pop a coil out. It will just unload and chill there.

 

I still have the stock bumpstops (relying on the built in bumpstops on the shocks) and the TNT cups are shorter in height than the stock ones. Best retainers are the ones that go over the cup like a hockey puck but extended to go between the coils and bolt in. I might add pucks too just to make the window for them to slip out smaller. With the setup I have no issues flexing once I get the coil to stay seated. Long arms would have the same effect if you dropped enough.

 

The problem he was having was the fact that the angle was so steep that it was bowing the coils and popping them out breaking the retainers off. Long arms just make it less angled so they stay in more easily. I'm not saying short arms won't work, just stating it's more stress and harder to keep them in with short arms.

 

Yea, I'll have to see how it all works. I'll keep it up to date. Not going long arms though, don't see the need for my build. I would like to flatten out the underside, get rid of the bend in the skid plate to clear the tcase and make it flush with the high clearance crossmember

 

Just a little something something

 

Transmission lift?

 

Bingo! 2" solid steel block to raise the trans 1" over stock. My Rusty's crossmember sits high and is 1/4" thick so no worries but it has a 1" trans drop for driveline angles. With the NP242 and skid plate from Rusty's the skid plate hangs low. Talked to XJWonders and he came up with this beefy sumabeach. Planning on cutting the skid plate to be flush with the crossmember so it's all the same height and flat. I have an SYE waiting to be installed so no worries on angles and such.

 

I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. I clocked my tcase to get it up personally. If I added something like that I'd have to cut a hole in the floor to clear.

 

How was clocking the case? I figured this was an easier method that I can remove and clock some day if needed. It'll also take the strain off the motor mounts with the built in drop of the crossmember.

 

Ax15 crossmember have 3/4" drop and the factory uses it with same motor mounts they use in AW-4 equipped jeeps. I don't see how it would affect the motor mounts badly if it had 1" drop. Sure it's 1/4" in difference but still.

 

I looked it up and the Rusty's 231 skid is flat across the bottom vs the 242 having a bend to clear. Should be a fun experiment. Start making 1" lifts lol NP242s can start using 231 skid plates and long arm crossmembers.

 

Was easy with a clocking jig I borrowed. Pulled the t case to do seals and drilled the transmission still in the jeep. It's like 5" above my long arm crossmember now. I still don't have a skid from cavfab yet, but luckily I haven't needed it yet.

 

I'm confused someone explain lol so this new Mount with the spacer in it was designed to allow TC to be sitting higher thus clearing any obstructions? So eliminated the need for a skid plate?

 

He want a skid plate but it wouldn't work because he has a np242 and it hangs lower compared to a np231. So he need to raise the t case up in order to make the 231 skid plate fit with his np242

 

He has a 242 which is bigger than a 231, he also has a crossmember with 1" drop built in. He wants to use a 231 skid plate since they're flat and don't have a dip like the 242 so he's lifting the trans 2" (1" over stock) to run a 231 skid