Hello. So i just got my hands on a hitch from a cherokee! My question is what would i need to do to connect it up? Its just an old hitch that has been laying around in my friends garage from his very old cherokee. Where would i even start in terms of hardware wise? And then wiring. I just want to hook it up for the time being and get it all set because i need brakes first. Also any other thing i should be concerned about to keep my jeep safe? Like cooling wise or anything of the sorts when towing a trailer? I always wanted to learn how to tow a trailer and now heres my chance lol. And what is the towing capacity? I seen it said 2000 to 5000 on the interwebs but i dont really know or trust that. I know my jeep previously had hitch spots on it before to mount it but thats it. So i just want to play everything safe. Sadly this hitch is a tad bit rusty and no stickers on it at all. Only surface rust and no rot. I want it to pull a 10x8 trailer or if i can pull my dads enclosed trailer. No size or weight on that. No clue on the class hitch it is either. Also since the smaller trailer is gonna have brakes installed very soon what about a brake controller?

 

See this thread:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tra...bility-208363/

To tow more than 2000 lbs you need transmission cooler, load leveling hitch and trailer brakes.

 

If your jeep currently does not have a hitch, send XJwonders a PM and get some nut strips coming. Be prepared to take off your rear bumper. The lights, those are super easy to wire in. You can get all the needed wires from the tail lights. Then you just need a simple converter box that you can get at Autozone. I will let someone else chime in on the trailer brakes and towing weight. All I use my hitch for is a recovery point.

 

^ This. Absolutely. I tow a 2700lb trailer with my XJ, and there's no way I would do it without any of them.

The nut strips are definitely the way to go. As with any undercarriage bolts on an XJ, use liberal amounts of anti-seize.

4-wire trailer wiring is easy with the taillight converter box. If you need trailer brakes, that will require a 7-wire setup, which is not as easy. Use the converter box for three of the wires (L-R turn, brake lights). Also needed are a 40A 12V wire, a dedicated ground and a brake signal wires. The 7th is an auxiliary wire that is often used for backup lights that you likely won't need.

There is a blue brake signal wire already in the wiring harness that you can hook up to a brake controller (at least it's there in late-model XJs). It runs from the driver's side kick panel to the driver's side quarter panel where the converter box will be wired in. The brake controller will also require a 20A 12V circuit.

I recommend the Tekonsha Primus brake controller.

 

Coincidentally, in my 96 XJ, I just finished my brake controller, 7-pin connector, and 12v power lines this weekend. I had a 4-pin installed with the hitch some time ago, but of course could not use my trailer brakes or feed power back to the trailer (a popup camper).

For the original poster, keep in mind, expecting everyone to answer all of your questions about everything involved is probably unrealistic. Especially considering that setting up a rig for towing is a well covered subject on forums, the manufacturer's websites, and other online how-to resources (like youtube). If you are starting from scratch, it will be a bit of a learning period for you.

 

I understand. I just wanted some insight on where to start looking and any precautions i should look out for. I think this had a hitch on it before bit am not positive. Nut strips? What are those? Also i have to take the rear bumper off? How come? And sorry i forgot to mention my cherokee is a 99. I looked under there and saw a few holes and looking at a tutorial online you use those for trailer hitch mounting points. And yes i also had a recovery point in mind as well as i have a few buddies who break down almost like clockwork so having that would be a plus to tow them home. And a trans cooler alright thanks! i suspected i would need that. It isnt hardcore towing just to move stuff back and forth or finding an epic garbage pick item which i cant stuff in my back.... Trust me i tried. Man wish i didnt leave that generator behind. But back to the matter yes the trailer which i will be using will have brakes installed soon and was wondering about a controller if i needed to buy one separate or it was already integrated in the jeep. Thanks for the info so far! i just dont want to do something wrong or somehow manage to hurt myself or someone else im still learning how to do my own stuff.

 

Oh crap that hitch isnt gonna work is it. Theres only 2 holes! it was from an 89 jeep cherokee.

 

You will have to add one. The only thing controller-related that is already there is the brake signal wire. See my comments above.

 

nutstrips are steel brackets that you slide into your unibody to reinforce the hitch mounting points. you need to remove the bumper so you can slide the nut strips in. and yeah you need a hitch with 4 holes per side.

to give you an idea :


also about the tow spec mentionned earlier, i indeed listed the whole jeep's capacity, not the axle capacity. and I shouldve mentionned it's with the towing package or at least with upgraded trans cooling and cooling system and probably geared for towing if your jeep didn't come with that package from factory.

as far as the D35 capacity itself, I don't think it matters, the listed capacity of the jeep takes that fact into consideration i'm sure. they wouldn't say the XJ can tow X if there was a chance it could break an axle doing so. just don't go over the specs and make sure you're properly equipped for the amount you're gonna tow.

 

hmm then i wonder how he got this on his old xj then... It came off of it so it was mounted there. must of been some hacking to get in.

 

I'd love to see what his look like.

I got the nut strips from JCR Offroad, and I am NOT impressed with them. I'm trying to return them.

 

That looks like a class II hitch with a 1 1/4" receiver, those often only use two of the mounting holes on each side as they are only rated for 3,500 lb., Class III/IV hitches with a 2" receiver (rated for 5,000lb.) make use of the additional holes.

 

If you buy the nut strips, you can use them to mark where to drill new holes.

I'd be careful with an old hitch. They do rust. Check inside - they often rust more on the inside.

OTOH, keep an eye on Craigslist and you might find a decent newer 2" hitch pretty cheap. I just picked one up for 50 bucks. Brand new.

 

I have a similar class II hitch on mine. It only uses two holes on each side. See my recent post.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tra...bility-208363/

 

Alright thanks! And also the inside is actually quite rust free, no rot so that's good I hope.