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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
So I have a 1998 Jeep Classic Cherokee 4.0L 4WD. Awhile ago I had a mechanic friend bypass the belt to compressor clutch because something was wrong with the A/C and I can't remember who bypassed it so I can't ask why they did it so I can get it fixed. Since they bypassed it I moved from MN to AZ. The clutch does not rotate when I try with my hand at all. All the parts are there for the A/C as far as I can see. I do not want to pay to have it serviced because it is just always expensive. So here I am. Anyone have any Ideas what could be going wrong?
The inner part of the clutch is bolted to the compressor shaft, so if you can't turn it the compressor is probably seized up. That would be a typical reason for bypassing it. Unfortunately if that's the case it's a pretty big repair job since that type of failure will usually contaminate the AC system with metal shards.
On the other hand if it's just the outer part of the clutch that won't turn (that is, the pulley) it's probably a bearing failure that would not affect the AC system internals. (Not sure on these if you can just replace the clutch assembly in that case or you have to replace the entire compressor.)
The inner part of the clutch is bolted to the compressor shaft, so if you can't turn it the compressor is probably seized up. That would be a typical reason for bypassing it. Unfortunately if that's the case it's a pretty big repair job since that type of failure will usually contaminate the AC system with metal shards.
On the other hand if it's just the outer part of the clutch that won't turn (that is, the pulley) it's probably a bearing failure that would not affect the AC system internals. (Not sure on these if you can just replace the clutch assembly in that case or you have to replace the entire compressor.)
Okay, so how would I check which it would be? As you can tell I'm not the greatest mechanic.
Okay, so how would I check which it would be? As you can tell I'm not the greatest mechanic.
Look at the compressor from the front. Here is an exploded diagram of the clutch assembly:
The way it works is that to engage the compressor the coil is energized. This magnetically pulls the clutch plate, which is bolted to the compressor crankshaft, against the pulley to turn the compressor.
So to test by hand, grab the clutch plate (center part of the clutch assembly) and try to turn it in the same direction as if the engine were running. If the compressor is OK internally it will turn smoothly.
If that's OK, see if you can rotate the outer portion, the pulley. It should rotate freely with little resistance and no bearing roughness or noise.
Look at the compressor from the front. Here is an exploded diagram of the clutch assembly:
The way it works is that to engage the compressor the coil is energized. This magnetically pulls the clutch plate, which is bolted to the compressor crankshaft, against the pulley to turn the compressor.
So to test by hand, grab the clutch plate (center part of the clutch assembly) and try to turn it in the same direction as if the engine were running. If the compressor is OK internally it will turn smoothly.
If that's OK, see if you can rotate the outer portion, the pulley. It should rotate freely with little resistance and no bearing roughness or noise.
I tried twisting both and neither budged in the slightest. Here it is in case you need it as well.
Unfortunately sounds like it's locked up pretty bad then.
The problem is that when a compressor seizes up it will contaminate the system with metal fragments. Parallel-flow components (condenser, possibly evaporator) won't necessarily flush successfully since the flushing compound will tend to seek around debris. So a proper repair is a lot more involved than just replacing the compressor.
Unfortunately sounds like it's locked up pretty bad then.
The problem is that when a compressor seizes up it will contaminate the system with metal fragments. Parallel-flow components (condenser, possibly evaporator) won't necessarily flush successfully since the flushing compound will tend to seek around debris. So a proper repair is a lot more involved than just replacing the compressor.
Well ****. Well, I should check the bearing and everything right? I mean is there a small chance that it's not like that? Because it just sounds like I need to bring it into a shop if the system is contaminated with metal frags.
Well ****. Well, I should check the bearing and everything right? I mean is there a small chance that it's not like that? Because it just sounds like I need to bring it into a shop if the system is contaminated with metal frags.
Usually when you can't even turn the clutch plate by hand it means the compressor has self-destructed internally. Really it should turn fairly easily. (On mine I can just push firmly with one finger to rotate it.)
You should have someone examine it to verify though, there's only so much that's possible to diagnose remotely.
Usually when you can't even turn the clutch plate by hand it means the compressor has self-destructed internally. Really it should turn fairly easily. (On mine I can just push firmly with one finger to rotate it.)
You should have someone examine it to verify though, there's only so much that's possible to diagnose remotely.
Alright well, thank you so much. You were an amazing help
08-09-2017, 03:17 PM
A/C Clutch not rotating
