Couple more things.. so the jeep stumbled to life briefly for about 5 seconds, tried using a little starting fluid and it again stumbled for a couple seconds. I pulled off the fuel pressure regulator and there is only a single O-ring in place which is in bad shape and I think I read somewhere there should be two? It's the feed from the fuel pump not into the rail. I found a fuel injector on the floor board so possibly the PO replaced an injector for some reason and that explains the leak. Going to try that tonight to increase fuel pressure and make it safe to keep working on, then on to the CPS test.

 

Another thing to add may be related in some sense. The turn signals/hazards don't work nor does the radio. The PO looks to have replaced the ignition switch being I found one in the back. Also checked fuses and didn't see any popped but I did notice a large yellow box under the column. Don't know If it's stock or aftermarket. I have a limited cherokee if that matters.

 

That could be a bad ballast resistor....

Jump the 2 wires and bypass the resistor and see what happens.

 

Symptoms of the typical "brown wire at the ignition switch burning" syndrome.

 

Those "quick connect" fuel fittings have two O rings with a spacer between them. As far as I know you can't buy the spacer, so don't loose it, and maybe even grab a spare or more at the JY if you have a chance. You put the rings and spacer on the tube first, then stick it into the fitting.

I've left my computer, gone out to my Jeep, tested the CPS and been back at the puter in under three minutes. Seeing over .35 ACV from the two wires directly from the unplugged CPS while it's cranking is crucial. (Both my Renix have .5 ACV) You can only do that on two wire Renix Jeeps.

The one time I needed a fire extinguisher I was sure glad I had it. A fire in the engine housing of a Dodge camper van. Likely the whole works would have burnt.

 

For what it's worth, '87s didn't have a ballast resister- mine doesn't. Sure, they were added to quiet the fuel pump down, but considering what most of us do to our Cherokees, I don't feel one is necessary. i recently replaced my pump with a new one. It is louder than the original one- it has been on its way out for a while, so it wasn't as loud- but, I don't really hear it once the tires, engine and other road noises take over.

One thing is for certain: out of the 30 years mine has been on the road, a failed or problematic fuel pump resister has never left me stranded, and has never cost me a cent to troubleshoot and/or replace.

Yes, the fuel line quick-connect assemblies with the two o-rings and plastic piece are still available:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...179716&jsn=528

 

Hey, super! I hadn't looked for a "kit" (or a priceless kit), just for the O rings and spacer. Thanks! I gather the resistor was added later in 87 Btw....Cruiser would know.

 

Note from DJ
Hear is more information on fuel leak
Viton O-Rings & Fuel Line Quick Connectors
You need 3/8 in
Make sure you don’t leave any parts in the cavity they fall of and remain in the cavity.
2 Each - 5/16" or 3/8”
You need 3/8 in
5/16 Viton O-Rings are NAPA 730-5018
3/8 Viton O-Rings are NAPA 730-5017
*Remember to re-use your old spacer between the 2 new O-rings!

 

Well sure glad I had a fire extinguisher handy.. so couldn't find the O Rings but purchased a whole new fuel pressure regulator that came with them and the spacer that was missing.. got it installed but there was gas already there which ignited.. didn't do any damage thankfully so back at it. I pulled a plug wire and put a socket in it to arc it on the valve cover and it showed spark but seemed pretty weak. I am trying to find the CPS connector on the back of the engine per cruisers website and will give that a check. I've never been too handy with an ohm meter so I was avoiding to have to do that. I did try and bypass the ballast resistor and still nothing.

 

Alright manned up and tested the CPS after finding the connection and it's reading .2 ACV. I'll see if I can get that swapped out and go from there. Any tips for swapping it out would be appreciated.

 

i "tested" my good cps with 4 different meters from a cheepie to 3 good quality meters and got 4 readings from .4 v to 1.7 v. readings depend on the meter you use.
the signal there is actually short duration pulses,5v, and dvm dont measure pulses accuratly, not designed to.
so you may be wasting time and money as many do changing the cps

edit,,oops, yours is a 90,,,mine is 2000. could be different sensor.dont know what you need.

 

Back the left front wheel onto a ramp. Tie an 8 foot string to the CPS connector. Go > 11mm, (7/16ths), 3/8" drive socket to a 3" extension > to swivel > to 30 inches or so of extension.
On your back with your feet out under the passenger seat you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to guide the socket onto the bolts that you fed up there on the ratchet you have in your right hand down by the tyranny cross-member. Be careful to not let it pull the bolt out of the socket to fall into the housing. Chuck the plastic thing if there is one. Hawl it up by the string, tie the new (Napa #CSS980), CPS to the string and lower, install. 10 minutes.

 

Supper?

Good to know. i'm hungry.

 

Here

 

I'd like to read the rest of that.