ajpulley

Good to meet you. I'm horrible at spelling too- went to a private school as a child, and whatever their method of teaching was, it didn't work for me. I HAVE to use spell-check a lot, or a dictionary, or a thesaurus. I won't laugh at someone else's mistake unless I'd laugh if I did the same thing.

Wy kant everything be spelld fonetikly?

Rogue4x4

Trust me, the special snowflakes are trying


For the intellectuals:

FAWN-ICHS

That's baby deer with a fish disease

ajpulley

My IQ just went down a whole bunch of points.

Rogue4x4

Mission accomplished, LOL

DFlintstone

Back then they didn't understand or screen for dyslexia or ADD or whatever. Me thinks multiple choice exams were concocted to get us through. Kids of the school board members, the teachers, the mayor, heck even your governor of your state might not be able to write an essay if their life depended on it! The ORDER from up high, "fix it so my kid will get through". "I pick "D" Alex, all of the above"

freegdr

Works great...

Dustin Dove

Ugh... love your guys banter glad to be a part of this group ha. Anyways.. I digress. Jeep still isn't running..replaced the CPS and it's reading .3/.4 acv. Used a socket extension to verify spark it's there. Replaced that FPR and it's getting gas. I am stumped.

ajpulley

Its good you changed the CPS. You can't really measure its output because of variables. For example, it produces a pulse every time a tooth on the flywheel passes the inductive coil inside the sensor. Since the average digital meter is designed to read the root-means-square (like my professional meters I use as an electrical contractor), or a portion of peak-to-peak in inexpensive meters at 60Hz, an alternating current voltage won't display correctly because the pulses will never be 60 per second. And, you are reading a variable direct current, not an alternating current. Best to just change it like you did.

Have you checked to see if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail for connecting a fuel pressure gauge. If you do, you can eliminate the pump. There should be about 30psi if I remember correctly at idle (high vacuum applied to the pressure regulator when the engine is warm- vacuum goes through a thermal port on the manifold), and about 39psi at wide open throttle (when vacuum is low, or the thermal port is closed during warmup).

Are your injectors firing? Testing that is a later scenario.

Is your timing correct? By that, I mean is the distributor indexed correctly, and are the spark plug wires attached to the correct cylinders?

Is your sync sensor inside the distributor OK? It tells the ECU whether piston 1 or 6 is coming up on TDC, which, with the CPS, establishes firing order of the injectors.

Is your MAP sensor working? It also influences startup.

Is your ECU receiving 12V from the starter solenoid terminal when the key is turned to crank, so the ECU knows to provide power to the fuel pump while cranking, and gets its signal for crank mode?

Is your TPS set correctly?

Have you checked your grounding points?

Cruiser has great information on his website. I also can send you some very useful info if you PM me your email address.

DFlintstone

AJ, indeed you can test a two wire hall effect transducer with a cheap meter. Yes, a square wave I gather. Hands on I've seen it. One as it went under .3 stalls and long crank got worse, remedied to snappy (Renix) starts after changing. Both of mine now are at .5. Met a guy at a yard sale, his died allot and at every stop sign, he had a .1.

Dustin, I don't get why but my new once tested low at first also, but came up after a couple of weeks. If it's flashing .4's I'd say you are good.

An engine with compression, spark, and fuel might not fire if it's flooded. Holding the petal floor-boarded will cut off fuel from the injectors and provide max air. Easy enough to try that...don't melt your starter though!

WoWa AJ! Dustin forget about the sync sensor or power to the ECU from the starter, doubtful TPS is a no start issue. The MAP might flood it. We all should watch that brittle little tube from the TB up to the MAP there on the firewall with the green connector. With that broken, plugged and not providing vacuum to the MAP it will tell the ECU to dump too much fuel. But you checked that...

67 GMC

All good advice here. I would also check all that rat's nest around your starter relay. I think some of the wires have fusible links and if these are blown because of your other issues, that may not be giving power to the right places. Remove your ignition coil and re-seat it. I think Cruiser says Refresh connectors before replacing components so clean up all the electrical stuff so that the copper is shiny. Dipstick ground wire should be the first ground tackled. Take that off and wire wheel it shiny. I think you said you have a weak spark so any spark is good at this point. I'd be tempted on working on the ignition side a little (check gap on plugs, new cap/rotor) all the cheap stuff. I'd spray a little starter fluid into the Throttle body to see if you can get it to run on starter fluid. Don't saturate, just a quick spray while cranking. Try flooring while cranking too and of course the MAP sensor tube to the TB should be checked to make sure it's seeing the vacuum. Make sure battery is kept charged up. Weak battery won't turn crank fast enough to start.

Dustin Dove

I work a half day today and I am heading to the junkyard. I found a mostly compete XJ and just wondering what parts I should raid and give it a shot. Going to check the grounds today. The map vacuum line looked. Going to get an ignition coil for sure. Where is the ECU located on this beast?

Batman33165

Should be by the the steering column... held in by 3 bolts

As for what to get... have no idea, i usually get loose bolts and nuts, and some electrical pieces i know i want to replace

DFlintstone

The coil/Icm unit is just in with two bolts, maybe 13mm. IIRC you just loosen the front one and remove the rearward because the front has a slot in the ICM. As far as the puter" the Renix ECU is pretty tough, they rarely fail. Fuses, rear hatch "rams"(the hydraulic deals), those plastic "nuts" that hold the cover over the relays. The expansion bottle? (or they are under $35 at Napa with a lifetime warranty). E-fans fail, just two little nuts top into the Rad. support. Idler pulley is just one bolt (15mm?), and they go sometimes. Spare belt? Once I found a "like new" gasket for the rear hatch.

I've never needed to mess with the fused links, or the start relay for that mater. Not sure what to say except I might be grabbing some of that if mine was fried like yours. No idea if that short messed with the relay, but for sure (as mentioned), you need to do something about those cooked wires.

cruiser54

I remember those days.....

djgrayxj

Note from DJ
Is this wire cut?