i have a 2004 cherokee limited 4.7 4x4, about a month ago i replaced the starter myself, when i was putting the last bolt in (the one on the back of the starter) i turned it for at least 15 minutes trying to tighten it AFTER the whole bolt was in. i didnt have to force it, it was screwing in easy but i never could get it to fully tighten so i tried wiggling the starter which seemed pretty secure so i just left it as is. i checked the starter again yesterday and it was still secure. it has been starting fine untill 2 days ago, i tried starting it and it made a grinding noise kinda like when you try turning the key after the engine is already on. after 3 or 4 tries it starts but i want to get it fixed before i become stranded and have to pay a tow bill on top of fixing it. im thinking it has something to do with the flywheel but then again im not very experience so any help would be great.

 

The bolt you mention threads into starter/solenoid . If it does not tighten than than there is an issue. It may have not been threaded. I would remove starter and check threads.

 

Welcome to CF!

It looks like the starter you bought is defective because that bolt hole is stripped of thread. It can be fixed with Heli-coil.

 

Hi

I am new and I am looking to find out some information of a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4WD 4dr Summit

VIN: 1C4RJFJGXGC319806

I checked the VIN using your tool on the site, but I am still confused. Although it says it has a class 4 hitch I can't find if it has the additional cooling needed. I have the original window sticker and it does not mention tow package or additional cooling.

It has a hitch on the back, it looks factory installed, but I need to be absolutely sure that it has all the factory installed components for towing. It only has 12,000 miles on it so I do not want to void the warranty. I think I read somewhere if it only has the hitch it will only tow 3,000 lbs instead of around 6,000 lbs.

Thanks and I apologize if I should have posted this somewhere else.

John

 

Hi y'all! So I have asked this question a few times in some other places and no one has given me an answer that has actually fixed the problem. So this is my last resort before I take it to Chrysler and tell them to cause me to sell my arm and leg.

So I bought my 1994 Limited with the 5.2 about two years ago. When I bought it I had a tune up done and I replaced the ignition coil and some other small parts. During that time it had started to stall and if I stepped on the gas in time it wouldn't die. If I didn't step on the gas in time it would die. It got to the point where eventually that would stop working, it would die and then I would have to wait 5/10 minutes for it to be able to restart and drive. I replaced the TPS and the IAC and nothing changed. I took it to a shop who then replaced the TPS and the Ignition coil. It drove for 3 days before it started doing the same thing again. My daughter then replaced the PCM, ASD relay, and put in a new battery and nothing changed. We ghosted a code from it before we replaced the PCM that said the PCM was bad. After the PCM replacement we got code 12. It would run, then die, run, die. Today after some time apart my daughter went to start it and nothing happened. So what the heck is going on? It has great fuel pressure, the cat is not plugged, there is no vaccum leaks, it does not run long enough to overheat. When it was shutting off it was like someone just turned the car off. Anything you guys suggest would be great.

 

BamBamTaylor, It's funny to see that you joined in July 2015 but that this was your first post. Anyway, let me be the first to offer a (belated?) welcome to CF! It's almost the second anniversary of your join-date also, so Happy 2nd Anniversary too!

Now, as for your '94 Ltd...as our friend Dave1123 always says, troubleshooting by keyboard is hard to do (something like that). It sounds overwhelming but it is probably not, as some things reveal themselves early-on and/or by accident once you start poking around. The sad part is that the cause for this strange intermittent problem could be anywhere. Sadder still, it looks like the "Grand Cherokee Ask a Question Thread" dropped dead after your post as-if nobody wanted to touch your post. I'll chime-in...

I want to start this ball a-rolling by suggesting that all part replacements don't mean doodly-squat unless electrical system integrity is known. This begins with clean, rust-free ground connections throughout the vehicle (in your case, probably one local ground for engine, chassis or the PCM). The next point of concern would be harness/connectors/connections, which should be inspected (for broken wires/crimps at connector backsides), mate-cycled (unplugged and plugged) and in some cases the mating faces (pins/sockets) may need to be cleaned and/or dielectrically greased. Harness bundles will also need inspection for points where abrasion may have caused wires to chafe against other metal objects and cause electrical short circuits. One other thing to check just came to mind and that is your distributor - have someone check the distributor shaft/bushing for wear because if it is running-out or wobbling a little then that will mess with timing.

Your mission, or that of your trusted troubleshooter, is cut out for y'all. I hope the problem is discovered and resolved early in the process - but don't stop the (free) efforts even if you do find it because you and your 23 year old Jeep will benefit from it in the long run. Good Luck.

 

00' WJ 4.7L 4x4....seems that my AC compressor has seized up on me....shop wants 1500 to replace compressor, dryer etc..seems a bit steep since parts kit is about 350ish so i want to attempt this myself since its a pretty easy job. Only problem is reclaiming the refrigerant before i open up the system..ive been told it isn't possible since the compressor is frozen by the shop...is this true? if not, I assume the simple venturi system from harbor freight should do the trick. Thanks all!

 

So... Have a question on a 98 Grand Cherokee that I may be getting tomorrow for $300. Stalls out off and on and was run out of gas recently. (Reason I'm getting it so cheap) no CEL, just runs and dies periodically.. Fuel filter...? Trying to get it fixed cause my buddies ranger just died today and I had to go a hour and a half away to tow it back with my brown jeep.

 

Does the belt squeal or snap when the compressor tries to engage?

 

Does it "die periodically" with the gas cap tightly closed? Try running awhile with no gas cap or a known-good replacement.

Another thing to consider is the fuel pickup tube and the possibility of holes in the pickup tube walls - is the tank only partially filled? The fuel level may be at or below the holes in the tube wall, sucking air.

Clearly, the fuel system will need attention. The pump may have a power supply problem, perforated pickup tube or has been damaged by overheating (normally immersed, fuel cools it). It may also have sucked or pushed debris into it and out into the system/rails/injectors.

 

No it doesnt.....i first notices this problem when It started smelling like something was burning in the cabin while driving. I opened the hood and could see smoke coming from the inner underside of the pulley...i then turned off the ac and the smoking stopped....no squealing or snapping sounds....tge pulley itself spins free with or without the clutch engaged.

 

The shop I have this truck at just called said they were able to reclaim the refrigerant out of the system....sounds like the guy I talked to yesterday that said they couldn't was an intern or something....anyway...on to next hurdle..anyone know off hand how big of a compressor is needed to pull enough vacuum when using the venturi system from harbour freight? I have a smaller compressor 2.5 hp with 8gal tank..i think it calls for -30 on the system....i haven't looked any of this up yet just thought I might get a quick answer on here. Thanks

 

Good to know, 'cause the answer you provided above tells me the compressor was NOT frozen. Damaged, yes, but not frozen. Glad they were able to reclaim the refrigerant. My next suggestion would have been to take it to another shop.

I'm not sure about the answer to your question about the venturi system though.... based on the information that Harbor Freight puts out though this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-va...ors-96677.html

requires a working air consumption of 4.2 CFM at 90 PSI

and this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...sor-69667.html

puts out 4.5 CFM at 90 PSI (5.5 CFM at 40 PSI)

HOWEVER, what it DOESN'T list is the duty cycle.... which, I DOUBT is up to par enough to keep up with that venturi. I would recommend a compressor with a larger capacity and/or duty cycle.

 

So I had it running off and on all day without issue. Payed $300 for it and it's got 145k on the clock