Good lookin' ZJ.

 

Thanks. Stole that thing. Needs front axles and needed front pads and rotors... So, $500 into it and it should be good to go. Aside from the unknown stallin issue it's supposed to have, but like I said, it ran great all day.

 

So question on my 99 and it's rear hatch... The hatch was replaced roughly 5 years ago when a previous owner had it. My over head keeps saying it's open when it isn't and I was wondering of I could bypass whatever reads it in the gate or how to fix it. Just don't know what it is that's the issue

 

There are switches on the hatch latches (plunger microswitches) that tell the BCM that the hatch is open, ie; not latched. Once you remove the plastic cover panel, you can see them on the latches themselves. Remove the phillips screw on each switch and turn them slightly to release them. When the plunger is depressed, it signals that it's latched. IDK if they are normally open or normally closed, that you'll have to figure out yourself. You may have to take the latches out to reach the switches. You can try just unplugging them to see if that works. Only one of those switches needs to be not latched to trigger the BCM. Usually the dome lights will come on as well.

I had a latch spring break and not stay latched and every time I hit a bump, the lights would come on and I got a chime and the message. Really annoying at night!

 

My WJ 4.0 has 215K miles on it and is running good. I want to keep it running as long as I can. Would you guys suggest I change the timing gears and chain as a precaution? IDK if the 4.0 is an interference engine or not and I don't wish to find out the hard way.

 

Okay so they do work then they don't work...maybe i can adjust them because I can get the light off if I slam the gate but then some vibrations will cause it to set the warning again. They may be out of whack... I had to move the pins they match to do the gate closed tighter...maybe doing so caused it to be slightly too far out for the switch to register at times

 

The latch has a cam that turns on the pins and a spring catch that locks it in place. What happened to mine was the spring broke and the cam wouldn't stay latched without it. I got 2 latches at the junkyard for $5 each. the dealer wanted $150 each for them! Try turning the cam with a screwdriver until it clicks into place. If it doesn't click, the spring is broken.

 

Power seats not working...can't find the fuse

 

Has anyone done/swapped door/hatch lock cylinders before? I've been looking around and are really only finding stuff for cherokees(a lot of renix stuff). I swapped the ignition switch modules between the parts and fixer upper ZJs but now I at least need to get one door lock cylinder as there's currently no keyless entry...wouldn't trust not have a backup key though with Chry Co wiring...lol

Edit: and they'd both be '96 5.2 ZJs.

 

I will be more specific lol my 99 grand cherokee power seat no longer works and I have no clue why. I can't find a fuse for it per the details on the fuse box cover and don't know how to fix the seat. Any ideas ??

 

you should be able to google a user/owners manual, sorry I'm not much help, my expertise is mostly OBD2 XJ, ZJ, MK.

 

That's fine. And I'll try to see about that. Last time I tried I got directed to a previous post on a forum but it wasn't the same issue exactly

 

How hard do you think it would be to replace this?



I have never done this before.

Looks like just two bolts. Will the axle shift and cause problems with lining it up?

The part with the bushings is $50. They want $21 each for the bolts. I got a quote for $220 out the door from a local "mechanic".

Should I give it a try? Or is $120 for labor worth any potential aggravation?

Thoughts from the experts?

1994 ZJ Limited 5.2L

 

Replacing a lower control arm is as straightforward as you think it is. You'll need to support the vehicle by the frame rails with jack stands. Get it up high enough to let the front axle hang (tires off the ground) and then put some stands under there to gently cradle it, or catch it if necessary.

The most annoying part is that the bolts have probably seized up. Inside the bushings are steel sleeves. On my XJ one control arm came out okay, after a fair bit of penetrating oil and beating with a hammer, but the other one at the frame side I ended up cutting down with an angle grinder and prying the mount apart so it'd slide out.

Getting it back together can be a little tricky, that's why you want the axle hanging before you start. You can manipulate it with your jack to compress the spring a bit, and if you need to bring the axle closer, you can use a ratchet strap around the axle tube and the transmission cross-member.

I'd set aside an afternoon for the task.

 

Changing them is no big deal, it's the rust on the bolts inside the bushings that give the most trouble. I would use new lower arms from a WJ instead of the ZJ ones because they are a boxed channel and are stronger. Which ever arms you use, replace both sides and do them one at a time. That way the alignment of the holes stay pretty much located. A come-along helps, but usually a prybar is all you need. Changing the upper ones can be a pain because the axle tends to twist because of the spring.

Word of warning; soak the threaded ends of the bolts with WD40 several times a day or two before you attempt the job. Also in between on the bushing ends. If the bolts come out easily, you may not need new bolts. If you do, buy them at an industrial fastener supply house. They are Grade 8 and they sell them by weight, not per piece. $21 each is outrageous! If they cost you $1 each I'd be amazed. I bought 2 Grade 12 socket cap screws 1/2X6" for 95 cents each.