debatable, defiantly brakes better than before i can lock the front up and come to a stop like a normal vehicle, steering is better too. idk really. better rotors and pads would help, black magic would be my first choice

my plan was to buy the ruff stuff ends too, 1 ton tre kit and the drag link ends, i have enough DOM from the ruff stuff panhard kit to fab a DL

 

nothing of not to update really, still trying to diagnose the shifting issue, if i cant figure it out by wednes day im going to take it to a shop and let them scan it, i have a line on a 500hp capable trans for a decent price so if its a brokeded trans then ill go that route

lately ive been thinking of the stuff i want to do post engine swap finish:

-chromos in the 8.25
-new leaves, tired of my stiff xj/xj/rc bastard packs
-better bumpstops
-body work/monstalining the whole exterior
-35's
-new carpet

 

What chromos are you thinking about? I've been checkin' 'em out too. QT had the TEN Factory chromos for 29 spl going for about 87 bucks a piece... haven't heard from anyone running them though.

 

G2 and ten factory are the same manufacturer. Id just pick whatever brand you like the price and run them.

 

Oh really, I didn't know that. 'Cause on the flange button for the Ten Factory's it says "motivegear.com".... they make the G2's as well?

 

They are literally just re-stickered. A lot of these gear and axle companies are made by the same manufacturer, some have a little different coating or minor differences. Just pick one and dont worry about it too much.

 

HA! Well, that's great to know!

 

im lookin at 10 factory lol.

i just think its good insurance on a locked axle with 33s l, powered by an ls motor. i would love to do jk axles or rock jocks but v8 swaping+ the other things i want to+ trying to save for a house its to much

id love to vut a rock jock 44 ready to go and then hust do an 8.8 rear but idk

i also want to lock and chromo the front, i havent decided for sure yet

 

For 85 bucks a piece, you really can't go wrong!

 

From what I've heard you can't buy true chromoly (4340) shafts for the 8.25 only 1541H which is only marginally stronger than oem 1040/50 shafts. I think it has something to do with how the bearings ride directly on the shaft instead of on a race.

 

Do an 8.8 rear swap, wouldnt cost you a whole lot more than getting chromos for the 8.25 if you can weld, plus a lot more strength and already has disc brakes.

Thats what I plan on doing with mine.

 

idealy id like to do jk d44s, but idk. im not against an 8.8 at all really at this point, i just like my full case locker as opposed to a factory 8.8 lsd.

at this point my 8.25 is in good shape, new brakes 20k ago, its geared and locked with a cover. i could likely come out even doint an 8.8 swap and reselling my 8.25.

we'll see i guess

 

Id say you could definitely break even. The d44 isn't really a huge upgrade from the 8.25, id say skip it and go 8.8 or bigger if you're going to upgrade.

 

I second this. Many many sources say the 8.25 arguably has competitive strength with the D44. The only thing you'd really be gaining is a non c-clip axle with more aftermarket support.... and of course full-widths depending on which 44 you get.

 

got a christams bonus for the first time ever so i went slightly nuts ordering parts haha

-novak cable shifter(t-case is now to far forward for the boostwerks linkage to work, the shift lever is almost directly above the lever on the case
-IRO track bar flex joint( since when i made the TB the frame side bushing is cocked at too extreme of an angle and will certainly fail eventually)
-Napier hoodvents(to keep water out better, but still vent out heat)
-a new TPS( think it may be bad and causing shift issues, or so ive read)
-passenger side , engine side coil harness to fix my random sputtering and dying issue
-2 Adams extreme duty drive shafts

i also bought stainless hardware for the exhaust flanges so i can start fabbing exhaust soon

next on the purchase list when i have money is boomerang shackles and new rear leaves