So...I might be trading my blue 2000 wj for a 98 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic.

 

I just bought a 04 grand Cherokee and it has a noise in the front that I can't figure out for the life of me. It sounds like a cross mix if kinda taking a disc grinder to the firewall mixed with a tire rubbing the inner fender. It only does it when you turn right, hit the brakes or hit a bump in the road. When you turn left it does not do it, and it sounds like it's under the radio in the bottom of the console. It also changes with speed when using the brakes. The guy I bought it off of said it's the pinion bearing in the front end, but why don't it do it all the time and only under certain conditions? So I don't think that's it. I even took it to a mechanic and he couldn't find anything that would cause it. I even took the dust cover off the transmission to see if the flywheel or torque converter bolts was hitting something, but didn't see anything. I'm about to pull my hair out, hopefully someone can help me. 1st jeep I ever owned.

 

Well someone offered me $8000 for my XJ so I took it. Now I am looking for a new project. Found a 2003 GC Overland with the 4.7 HO V8. I don't know anything about these engines. What are the know issues with the V8s if any?

Also, it is all time 4wd which I don't like. Any way to swap out transfer cases in the GC's and if so will any np231 fit in place of it? If not, which t-case would I need? New to the Grand Cherokee seen so sorry for all the dumb questions.

The GC has 157k miles on it and looks to have been taken care of.

 

I had a quatra drive before the current selec-trac 4.7 and it's not too bad. Not always 4 wheel but a computer controlled part time. Wasn't a bad Jeep and had 219000+ when I got rid of it. The current one had 216000 or so when I got it but it now has 220000+ still runs mint. To answer the swap question, I can't help with that as I've never thought to attempt it.

 

I just found a video on youtube. Same GC with the V8 all wheel drive. He changed the 247 t-case over to a 242HD select trac. He said make sure to grab the drive shafts too because they are different.

 

Okay so at least you found a answer to that question lol

 

Yeah. Now I just need to know about the 4.7 High Output V8 engine. Is it any good or prone to going bad? I am going to look at it in a couple hours.

 

Google. there are lots of horror stories. same with the 44a. it's probably in the same category of a 00-01 XJ with a 0331 head if that gives you an idea. get a ZJ with 5.2 or 5.9 magnum(still have the 44a issue though) and definitely look into a 231 or 242 swap. I love the 242 in my xj, the 249's VC in my first ZJ is half way failed(160k), and the 2nd ZJ I bought the owner said is already toast(230k).

 

I had a wj with the 4.7 v8 and the d44a. I loved it! Never had a single problem. I would recommend a diff cover for the d44a though because aluminum and rocks dont really mix. It was a strong rear end though, I never had any problems and I wheeled it pretty hard. Same with the 4.7. I ran it with barly any oil (accident of course) over 1000 miles with zero trubbles. Tbh I feel like most of the people who compain about them dont have one.. or maybe I just got lucky (: good luck!!

 

Now that I have a spare 44a, I'm considering a skid from mountain vista fabrication(on facebook)

protects the pinion too and with a truss should stiffen everything up well. I forget if the WJ is a bit different from the ZJ or not though.

 

I must warn you, these are just my opinions and subject to criticism and correction.

Yeah, the WJ uses a 3 point rear suspension with a ball joint and triangular upper control arm instead of the 4 link suspension like the ZJ. When you get radical with lifts, the best thing to do is convert to a long arm kit which is 4-point. I'm thinking the major problems with the D44 in WJs is because too much stress is put on it by the 3-link.

The 4.7 and the 3.7 as well, get a bad rap because they are very sensitive to a overheat. These are iron block engines with aluminum heads and overhead cams that run in aluminum bearings. They have chain driven cams with tensioners that tend it wear out and are an interference engine; that is the valves will hit the pistons if the timing jumps.

A major overheat can warp heads, blow head gaskets, and are a major cause of dropped valve seats. They are good motors IF MAINTAINED! Scientifically, the coefficient of expansion is different between the aluminum and the steel so the heads "work" (slide over each other) and tend to cause head gaskets to fail. This is a known trait with racing engines, but those are maintained more frequently.

The NP247 is much better than the older NP249 because of a redesigned clutch system. I believe they are not a sealed unit anymore but are lubricated by the case fluid, but don't quote me on that. This may be the reason they need a special fluid.

The NP242J and NP242HD are second generation t/cases with the only major difference being they don't have speed sensors in them. Those are inside the transmission now. The "J" used with the 4.0 has a rubber boot on the output shaft and the "HD" from the V8 has an aluminum tailshaft housing.

Go to wjjeeps.com for more info.

 

I think I will just stick to the 4.0

Found an 02' with the 4.0 but it is full time 4wd. Which leads me back to doing a t-case swap. And I think those full time 4wd come with some funky drive shaft up front that requires a conversion kit which adds to the cost of building the Jeep.

Not sure why it is so hard to find a 4.0 with the SelecTrac?

 

Would you buy it anyway? It has the all time 4wd but it sure is nice and clean.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/5753676405.html

 

My 242 Selectrac has a front driveshaft with a double-carden joint and a CV joint at the diff. You can get away with a 2" BB by resetting the slip joint length (adjustment collar), but for anything else, you need to change the CV to a u-joint WHICH requires changing the diff yoke. Changing the yoke is tricky in getting the pinion bearing preload right. The new shaft will have the slip joint in it.

The 242 is more common in the 99-01 4.0 WJs. After that, they had to be ordered that way. People got lazy and didn't want to have to worry about a t/case shifter so the 247 became more popular, especially with women.

 

Is it hit and miss finding a WJ that has the carden joint and u-joint already in place so you don't have to worry about that or what is the story on that?

Sorry for all the questions. Going from XJ to WJ are two different worlds. If I run across a clean XJ I am snatching it up.