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That is some rough paper, I suspect you are getting at what it is worth but then knocking a dingleberry off with a USB stick sounds like even less fun.
Finished installing my napier precision fender flares. Took the jeep out to do a quick shake down
How did the installation of the 3M gasket? Mine was a PITA! I even heated it to make it more pliable. As I screwed the flares on, it kept shifting and pulling off the flare. I pulled them off and tried to fix it, but it kept doing it.
The the 3M rubber trim went on smoothly. No issues, it does peel off a little on one corner but that's because I didn't trim the flare enough to sit flush against the body.
So I worked for about 4 hours last night on whatever the issue with my Jeep is. Originally thought it might be the fuel pump ballast resistor... but it's not. Voltmeter is showing input of 12.5 volts and an output of 10.5 volts. THAT 24 year-old part is functioning fine.
I thought it might be the MAP, but I swapped a MAP in from a '96 with the same result. I think I've narrowed it down to the fuel pressure regulator. I just replaced it, BUT I paid like 13 bucks for the thing on eBay (dumb idea, I know). Fuel pressure is showing about 10 PSI on the rail. I don't know if my gauge is accurate, but I hooked up an attachment to the gauge and checked my tire pressure with it and it's showing correct within 2 PSI... so it seems like it should be working.
The Jeep has gone from starting and running for a few seconds and then DYING, to starting, and running at good idle for about 5 seconds, droop below idle and run like it's got a lopey cam for 5-10 seconds, and then do that back and forth... to then not even starting at all.
If it is in fact the FPR, I don't think I've ever heard of one declining in function so quickly. I attempted a couple of things to try and "diagnose" the problem, but it turns out, I had the function of the return system BACKWARDS so my diagnostic "hacks" weren't working. I mixed up which line was pressure and which line was return and didn't even think about it until this morning, so when I made my "hacks" to "bypass" the FPR, all I was doing was dropping fuel pressure down even more. It was going in the rail through the pressure line and running right back out the return.
So, tonight on the way home, I'm going to pick up a new FPR... either a BWD or a GP Sorensen... then we'll see what happens.
Replaced the captive front output stabilizer bearing in an NP242 I've been building. Took a couple of hours. Tried pulling it out with a socket welded to the bearing but it just broke the welds. Had to pull the needle bearings out and cut an angled slit in the race then work it out that way. What a pain
So.. after 2 hours of hunting for the water leak between the bell and oil pan I gave up and put a sticker on the hood.. lol That will certainly make it run better.
As for this leak, I'm down to the Heat system now. Everything else has been cleaned and checked.
So.. after 2 hours of hunting for the water leak between the bell and oil pan I gave up and put a sticker on the hood.. lol That will certainly make it run better.
As for this leak, I'm down to the Heat system now. Everything else has been cleaned and checked.
The only one that I cant see it behind the head (i think) but all the rest are solid.. I think I may have to have the local jeep shop (AMS Raleigh) do a pressure test on it.
So.. after 2 hours of hunting for the water leak between the bell and oil pan I gave up and put a sticker on the hood.. lol That will certainly make it run better.
Drained the tranny from the pan and refilled. Took about 2.2L. I did this once about 20K miles ago. I meant to do it several more times but didn't follow through.
Fluid is brownish pink but makes a pretty clear film. No burnt smell at all.
