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So I take back not being happy about the wiring harness being cut. Still wish they did not cut the hinges though.
Having pigtails made it easier to check the regulator and actuator to see if they worked.
They appear too.
Anybody ever take apart an actuator to refresh it?
Started diagnosing my overheating issue and did a block test. Test showed the presence of fumes in my coolant. So I pulled the dreaded 0331 head off to find it cracked in the usual spot. Stated weighing my options of replacing the head or the entire engine since it’s always had lower engine knock above 3000RPM since I bought it used with 220,000 miles. Pulled the pan off and wiggled the rod caps. Sure enough they were loosey goosey. Pulled one of the caps off to find the crank was severely damaged. Felt like sand paper. Which is funny because the “mechanic” I bought it from said he rebuilt it, ha ha! So I immediately started pulling the engine out and got it strapped to a pallet. Thinking about a Titan reman. Still waiting for them to answer a few questions I had about what heads they use. Then it looks like I’ll be making the 11hr drive from WV to Fl to deliver the core and bring back the replacement engine. Man, aren’t jeeps fun? All jokes aside, I really enjoyed working on it. It’s gave me a lot more confidence to tackle some other daunting projects that I’ve been putting off.
When my 01 went up with a 159k on it. I bought a ATK rebuilt from Advance Auto. Had a shop install it as I wasn't going to do it outside in January. 3 year warranty. They source a heavier casting head as well. So far over a year later no problems at all.
Checked the brake lines for leaks and may have tightened the line to the drivers rear wheel cylinder a smidge much as it got a bit soft. The fitting looks ok tho. Wheel cylinder, i dont know. Mightve cracked a line for all i know. Its stainless so i went a bit tighter than i usually do. Im not driving it right now anyway. Started to fab a new fuel vapor line, but decided to go stainless with everything. Painted some more, and evicted a wasp nest from under the PDC.
Its not much, but doing anything with the XJ right now is a win in my book.
So I take back not being happy about the wiring harness being cut. Still wish they did not cut the hinges though.
Having pigtails made it easier to check the regulator and actuator to see if they worked.
They appear too.
Anybody ever take apart an actuator to refresh it?
Yes, but not on an XJ. The one I refreshed just needed a new gear (F150).
So the plugs did not look to bad. Ignore #4 that is a newer plug from when I had that P304 last year. But they are all going bye bye anyway. Hold on to #4 for my next misfire. LOL.
So all the plugs are in. Alternator is in. Belt is tightened to about 150 according to my belt tension gauge.
So taking a page out of 00xjfreedom's book doing the Viper Coil mod from Ksuspensions but bought a Mopar coil and wires separately.
The Spectra they sell has 4 mounting points and they give you 4 washers, nuts, and bolts. The Mopar only has two. But there are a couple holes there not punched through.
He used a soldering iron and punched through the holes. I was thinking of doing the same but by heating up a steel rod and punching them through.
Decided against it. Grabbed some lock washers and decided I will use all 4 washers on just the two bolts.
Another thing I don't like is using the self tapping screws that secure the coolant overflow for the bracket and coil.
Some little M4 bolts, nuts, lock washers,and some M5 washers (little more surface area) are going to be used to secure it now.
Was thinking of making the hole bigger. In the bracket it would not be an issue but really did not want to drill the overflow tank.
M4's fit without a problem. Also figured add some split loom to the harness.
Last some spark plug wires and some separators for them.
See how much of this I get done today. LOL.
Hey Ralph, So how your liking it? I'm guessing the col you used is a Mopar 56032520AF? Also the wiring harnes did you make or buy it? Thinking about doing this also. thanks.
Hey Ralph, So how your liking it? I'm guessing the col you used is a Mopar 56032520AF? Also the wiring harnes did you make or buy it? Thinking about doing this also. thanks.
Seems fine. Yes used that coil and purchased just the harness and bracket from Ksuspensions. Oh and the Taylor 8 mm wires for a 4.0.
Yes, but not on an XJ. The one I refreshed just needed a new gear (F150).
One of the reasons I love having spare parts is just so I can take them apart.
Probably take one of the actuators apart as much as I can to see what I can see.
Probably break something or not be able to put it back together though. LOL.
But it will be a learning experience.
So yesterday I got those broken bolts out of that hinge plate and let the plate soak in some Evapo-Rust.
Oh and in case anybody is interested they are a M8 with an 1.25 thread pitch. I read that some guys just
use regular bolts so.........
Today I got all the double sided tape residue off the door from the molding and the strip inside that is
on the rear door between that and the front door. I can't tell you guys enough how much I like the
3M 08984 adhesive cleaner I use. Not cheap but.......
So I guess I will give the door a good washing and figure out what to do next.
So I figured after I washed and dried the door and before I start to deal with the rust on her would try an experiment.
So this is the door as is.
I taped off a section.
I forgot to clay the section. I have that Mother's kit. I even researched if you could put up the clay bar after you opened it and used it a little.
You can. Just spray it with the lubricant and put it in an air tight container.
Anyway with the crappy Turtle Wax products we sell in the store that I use and have on hand. The polishing compound toned it down some but not enough.
So I hit it with the rubbing compound which did a much better job. Then hit it with the liquid wax.
Could not get a good shot for some reason but if you look close.
My buddy in AZ told me what he thinks I should do. All Mequiars stuff. Clay first, the fine cut cleaner, the swirl remover, some glaze, and last their paste wax.
Have to see how much of the smaller rust issues I can deal with first so plenty of time to overthink this. LOL.
Not a show car. I just don't want the doors to stand out if I do put them on. Not to mention the $50 in materials. MLOL.
Actually I think the exact opposite. Despite my crappy detailing skills and the so so quality of the Turtle Wax
products I use where my paint is good it is pretty good. I don't think I can bring the doors up to par using
Turtle Wax products. I might have to resort to the higher end stuff. So thinking give it a shot with the Turtle Wax
stuff, see how they compare, and if necessary try higher end products.
First thing is taking care of what rust there is on that door first though.
