Good work! Ill have a package going out for you on Monday

 

Thank you Ianf. Final update of the night... Oil pan is back on. I expect it to leak like its nobodys business... Omg what a pain in the ***. Couldnt figure out where the studs go to bolt down the coolant lines...does it matter much? Im freakin exhausted. Tomorrow is junk yard day to find a rocker arm bolt and then some 02 sensors for my ford taurus that sips gas like its champagne. Stay dirty my friends. If all goes well we should be firing it up tomorrow.

 

Hey guys! Just wanted to let you all know the oil pan was torqued on today. I put oil in the jeep. I forgot to put the oil filter on so when i fired it up it shot a ball of sludge out of the oil filter hole and about 2 quarts of oil very rapidly sprayed out from the engine bay and about 3 feet across the garage and up the wall and all over the floor. Oops!

So got the filter on and damnit wouldnt you guess the oil turned black again very quickly. I will probably have to keep doing frequent oil changes but it shouldnt have any huge loose chunks of sludge to suck up through the oil pump anymore.

When i started it up my oil pressure went up to about 80. Huh thats high...turned it off and back on again and oil pressure went past 80 into the 100 range and i called ODgreen up and he said that is impossible and that the sender was bad.

Ran out to autozone and picked up a sender put it in and voila pressure is sitting at 40 at idle.

One thing i want to ask you guys about. When i had the pan off i rotated the crankshaft by hand to TDC for reinstalling the rocker arms. But while i was rotating the crankshaft the #6 cylinder was hissing. It is losing its compression. I forgot to take out the spark plugs and apparently didnt need to due to the compression loss.

I am going to assume this is probably from sludge making a piston ring stick. If that is the case would the rotella t3 and marvel mystery oil solution help unstick the piston ring?

Well thanks again for all the support guys. This long frustrating journey is almost over. I will be back with a final update and perhaps even a video later. =)

 

Ah and just a note on the methodology of the madness...i dont plan on taking that oil pan off again. I used rtv on the block at the front and rear slopes. And then used rtv on the pan side front and rear slopes so as to create a good seal.

I couldnt figure out where the studs bolted on to the tranny cooler lines. Will they be ok not being bolted to the pan with just moderate street driving?

 

Ask and you shall receive:

 

That is the guide that i followed in order to get the bolts back in but the brackets on the tranny cooler lines dont seem to fit in any of the spots where the studs are at. I checked it twice as well.

On a positive note the engine seems to have ALOT more power now. If i ask it to go its gonna go. The new shocks are incredible. No more concussions from speed bumps. My axle is still pushed over to the passenger side though even with the track bar rebuild. And im having a real hard time getting the brakes to bleed properly so the brakes are real spongy.

But its running like a champ! No more valve train ticking.

 

Ok...so earlier today my fiancee wasnt paying attention while i was trying to bleed the brakes and the master cylinder went dry... Options? Ive got 21 dollars left for this month and need this to be on the road by the 21st.

 

Fill the m/c and start over at the furtherest bleeder working to the nearest. Then bleed the master cylinder.

 

Master cylinder doesnt seem to want to bleed. Getting zero pedal pressure.

 

This is after you've done all the fittings at the brakes or the m/c won't let you bleed them? Might have to pull the m/c and try bench bleeding it to find out if it's good..

 

Right did all the brakes and we werent getting any air bubbles out of hte lines. The pedal still goes straight to the floor with little or no resistance. Do the lines going into the master cylinder strip out as easily as the ends that go into the soft brake lines for the caliper? Will a normal open ended wrench be enough to get them out?

 

If the lines haven't been loosened in a while it's best to use a line wrench. Only takes one time to round them off. Mine takes a 12mm.

The pedal wouldn't pump up and hold pressure at all before you would break open a bleeder?

 

It wouldn't hurt to soak the fittings with some penetrating lube and a flare nut wrench (line wrench) is the way to go. Maybe borrow one? P.S. congrats on getting your engine running!

 

So from the suggestions so far and research i should be getting a bleeding kit for the master cylinder and a line wrench. Pull the MC and bench bleed it then repeat the bleeding process?

 

You can do it with the line wrench and a big old rag.

Place the rag under the cylinder and bleed the master by cracking the fittings loose a bit just like you would a bleeder on a caliper or wheel cylinder.