Installing receiver hitch on 2019 latitude
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 8
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From: St louis area
Year: 2019
Model: Cherokee (KL)
Engine: 3.2
So I am thinking of installing a hitch. My question is do I really have to install a new valance in place of my factory setup? It looks like the part the hitch would go through pops out. Also, does the factory wiring harness really cost almost as much as the receiver????? Do the 3rd party wiring harnesses work ok? I want to instal the factory hitch because I like how it slides in the frame and not like those that hang low because they bolt on. Thoughts or suggestions?
thanks
k
thanks
k
Banned
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 27
Likes: 6
From: Emerald Coast
Year: 2018
Model: Cherokee (KL)
Engine: V6
I'm ordering a new Cherokee because of that, and the electronics... In the past, I was able to order the "towing package" for heavy duty alternator, transmission cooler, etc. and always got a hitch installed by U-Haul since they were the "towtal" experts in the experience. However, since this Overland came with all that, adding the trailer package seemed extraneous. I erred. The spec sheet did not include important details, such as:
The receiver coming through the rear fascia is important, even though the U-Haul does not extend below the differential.
The factory towing package has wiring integrated with the computer/display controls that is not mentioned, probably coordinating LED/HID/conventional lighting variables.
Having this retrofitted would be problematic, and I fail to see the point in paying an installer for more problems - even if it it U-Haul and they try their best to avoid troubles.
Paying the depreciation for a new ride with this option promises to be well worth the expense. What's the point of having money if you don't want to spend it?
Best of luck with your effort. I'm taking the easy way out, but - that's just me.
Ciao!
The receiver coming through the rear fascia is important, even though the U-Haul does not extend below the differential.
The factory towing package has wiring integrated with the computer/display controls that is not mentioned, probably coordinating LED/HID/conventional lighting variables.
Having this retrofitted would be problematic, and I fail to see the point in paying an installer for more problems - even if it it U-Haul and they try their best to avoid troubles.
Paying the depreciation for a new ride with this option promises to be well worth the expense. What's the point of having money if you don't want to spend it?
Best of luck with your effort. I'm taking the easy way out, but - that's just me.
Ciao!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: St louis area
Year: 2019
Model: Cherokee (KL)
Engine: 3.2
so I agree but when I picked up my jeep, I didn't see the need for the hitch to justify the cost of the dealer installing it. It would have been a couple grand they said. I also am not pulling a camping trailer. I would be using it for a small 8' utility trailer at most. Just hauling off tree trimmings or pulling a jet ski trailer with a Kayak or 2. I don't think I need the alternator or trans cooler options because of this. I just didn't know if I needed to replace the whole lower fascia piece or if the knockout in teh middle would be able to accept the bezel.
so I agree but when I picked up my jeep, I didn't see the need for the hitch to justify the cost of the dealer installing it. It would have been a couple grand they said. I also am not pulling a camping trailer. I would be using it for a small 8' utility trailer at most. Just hauling off tree trimmings or pulling a jet ski trailer with a Kayak or 2. I don't think I need the alternator or trans cooler options because of this. I just didn't know if I needed to replace the whole lower fascia piece or if the knockout in teh middle would be able to accept the bezel.
it is more than just installing the hitch. I work at the factory where they are built if it doesn't get the factory tow package it is a aluminum bumper under the plastic and the factory tow package is a steel bumper with a different plastic covering. Yes I agree it does look like it just pops out but it don't.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: St louis area
Year: 2019
Model: Cherokee (KL)
Engine: 3.2
I went with the aftermarket. I was able to do it cheaper than what the wiring harness would have cost me from MOPAR. I know it isn't the top option but it fit my needs and budget. I don't have a tow package and I wont be hauling anything larger than a small Jon boat trailer anyway so it works. The issue I soon discovered with the aftermarket receivers are:
1. Since it sits lower than factory option, you need a substantial rise on the hitch to tow level. The bar I got is the one that is completely exposed because i didn't want to cut any of the fascia of the rear end. Because of this, I needed a 6" rise to bring my trailer up to level or just above level.
2. The aftermarket receiver fits like a glove but the play in the muffler on the Jeep causes them to make slight contact. this sounds like my spare tire is hopping around in the back. I will fix this by putting in a thin buffer to deaden the vibration. Probably a thin strip of gasket material should do it.
3. You will have about 1" of extra wire in the wire harness to split between the plug n play on the rear lights. I found it easier to fish the wires from the driver side to the passenger side and up to the light first. I installed that side, pulled the slack out and secured them as I pulled back to the driver side. then I fished up to the driver side and finished securing. It was also much easier to secure the signal box where the wires come in and out of, if you remove the fender well cover. Opens that space right up for you. As far as the wiring harness kit goes, This was the first time I ever installed something that claims you have everything needed to install that actually had everything I needed to install. It was nice.
I used the Curt 13171 receiver hitch and the Tekonsha 118779 wiring harness. Total cost $192.49
The hitch mount was the curt 45090. It is an 8" drop/6" rise.
1. Since it sits lower than factory option, you need a substantial rise on the hitch to tow level. The bar I got is the one that is completely exposed because i didn't want to cut any of the fascia of the rear end. Because of this, I needed a 6" rise to bring my trailer up to level or just above level.
2. The aftermarket receiver fits like a glove but the play in the muffler on the Jeep causes them to make slight contact. this sounds like my spare tire is hopping around in the back. I will fix this by putting in a thin buffer to deaden the vibration. Probably a thin strip of gasket material should do it.
3. You will have about 1" of extra wire in the wire harness to split between the plug n play on the rear lights. I found it easier to fish the wires from the driver side to the passenger side and up to the light first. I installed that side, pulled the slack out and secured them as I pulled back to the driver side. then I fished up to the driver side and finished securing. It was also much easier to secure the signal box where the wires come in and out of, if you remove the fender well cover. Opens that space right up for you. As far as the wiring harness kit goes, This was the first time I ever installed something that claims you have everything needed to install that actually had everything I needed to install. It was nice.
I used the Curt 13171 receiver hitch and the Tekonsha 118779 wiring harness. Total cost $192.49
The hitch mount was the curt 45090. It is an 8" drop/6" rise.
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