Hello, I searched threads for this info with no success. I need to replace my tires soon. I’d like to get something beefier than the stock Firestone’s but I don’t want road noise Any suggestions? I have a stock 2016 trailhawk. Also, I’m looking for good quality brake rotors. Mine have warped twice. First time the dealer replaced the fronts because they were under warranty. I guess I’ll upgrade the pads too. Any suggestions on these items?

 

You posted in the XJ forum, so you won't get as many responses as you will in the correct forum.

But since you are here, I will respond to your rotor question. All but a couple rotor manufacturers import foreign made rotors.
I have always been a fan of Raybestos. So, I usually use Raybestos Rotors and pads. The big tip is you need to "mate" or breakin your pads and rotors.
Do a search and you will find the procedures on the net.

Good Luck.

 

Last I looked ALL of the manufacturers source from China. A few that claim made-in-the-USA only did the final machining and painting in the US.

 

I'm pretty sure Centric rotors are completely made in the USA. And I really like them. Affordable, well-made, and haven't had one warp yet. Can't speak for the new-version Cherokees, but I like to pair the Centric rotors with either the Hawk LTS pads or the EBC Yellowstuff pads.

As for tires, I'm a huge fan of Kumho Road Ventures. If you plan on off-roading a lot, get the LT rated tires. Otherwise get the P rated version. Minimal road noise, yet a reasonable tread for the dirt.
But, since you are here in the XJ forum and considering getting brakes and tires.... why not just bite the bullet, spend just a bit more money, and trade the KL in for a nice, old XJ??

 

I've seen numerous reviews stating that Centric only does the final machining and coating of the rotors, and the initial forging/casting is done in Asia. That's not to say they're low quality though, because China is quite capable of producing quality steel and parts. It's the price wars and drive to the bottom that's caused most major brands to carry an economy line of replacement automotive parts, that are made as cheaply as possible

 

I highly doubt your rotors are actually "warped." More likely you have uneven pad deposits on them causing brake jutter. Can you feel it through the pedal? Chassis? Both? I'd recommend you use a higher temp pad to prevent the overheated pad from adhering to the hot rotor when stopped at a light, etc and leaving a deposit. As someone noted above, Hawk LTS is an excellent compound, so you may want to consider that.

 

Ah, you very well may be correct. You probably know better than I. It was a few years ago that I looked into it and was led to believe they both cast and final machined here in the states. Agreed on the race to the bottom, and it's also bloody difficult to really track down where everything comes from and where the work is done.

 

Thanks Sig220. I’ll do some research. Much appreciated

 

Sorry guys, I didn’t realize I was on the wrong thread. I’m a newbie at forums. Thanks for that info. I’ll look into it. Have a good one.

 

I feel a pulsating when I slow from high speeds. Not much in the pedal though. I’m pretty sure it’s the drivers side. I never knew it could be the pads. The first time it happened, the Jeep sat for three weeks while I was away. After driving it the first time after sitting, I noticed a significant pulsating. I was told that the pads might have weakened the rotor because it was sitting in one spot. I may not be explaining it correctly though. Anyway, the dealer said they gave me new rotors because it wasn’t even two years old yet. So you think if I change the pads only, the pulsating May be eliminated? It has 46k on it. Thanks for all that great info.

 

I hardly ever drive my wife's Acura RDX, but last time I did I asked her why hadn't she told me about the brakes? They pulsated as they were applied. She said she never noticed till I pointed it out. On her last oil change (she goes to the dealer) They told here she needed new brakes front and rear at a cost of like $580. I told her I could do the brakes for cost of pads and rotors which turned out to be app. $140 per axle. I told her that I would only change the front first and if she still had a problem we would do the rear. She only had about 33K on it at the time and I knew there should be plenty of pad left.
So, I ordered up a set of pads and rotors (Raybestos) and changed them one afternoon. The old pads had tons of wear left in them and the rotors looked clean. Could have turned the rotors and reused them, but I already had the new ones. Brakes now feel great, no pulsating, just smooth friction! She says they feel better then when they were new. Of course, we took the time to "burnish/mate the pads and rotors" with a series of firm but not locked up stops after they were warmed up. As a side note, my Mom drove a Honda Accord for 18 years and 266,000 until she wanted something else. I checked it out before selling it. The brakes still had pad left when I changed them and no pulsating but had never been changed before!
You won't know in most cases by eye which (pads or rotors) are causing your problems. Some, yeah you can see the glaze or buildup but not many in my experience. So I always consider them a set when I do brakes....if there is pulsating. If you wanted to take the time, you could save a little money by having the rotors turned and replacing the pads but for just a little bit more you can replace the rotors with new and save the time from having them turned.
I guess what I am saying is why buy/change just pads when the problem is still there you will have to go through the labor again when it could have been fixed the first time with pads AND rotors. Get a good set of pads and rotors and start with the front axle. You can check the rears for brake pad wear, but I wouldn't change them for pulsating until I have replaced the front. Because I think you will eliminate the pulse when you change the front.

I have never worked on a 2016 Jeep the wife's RDX is a 2017 though.... lol

Good Luck!

 

Often when a car sits out in the elements for a long time, the rotors will rust (they're cast iron), and the pad will often rust to the rotor or leave some sort of "mark" on the rotor. You get in and notice the petal pulsing when you brake. My first advice to anyone who encounters this is to go through the standard brake bedding procedure, and don't be shy about it. Also, don't come to a complete stop and drive around afterwards to let the brakes cool. That usually fixes the problem, especially if you're running a more aggressive pad compound.

 

thanks brother. I don’t mind spending the money. I just want quality parts and I want them to last a reason amount of time.

 

IJM brake bedding can be done at any time? Or just when new parts installed?

 

Bedding can be done at any time, I’ve done it successfully on several vehicles to stop pulsing. Some pad material is more prone to leave uneven deposits than others. Pad deposits do cause a lot of brake pulsing complaints, but few folks realize that so they just pay for new brakes. Bedding the brakes is free and can help diagnose brake issues. If done correctly and the pulsing disappears, then new brakes are not yet needed. Of course brakes do wear and warp, so pulsing is certainly not caused only by uneven pad deposits.


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