No unfortunately, all the fingers are still in good condition. After looking at everything and seeing the condition of the parts , the only thing I can come up with is that the throw out bearing isn't extending enough to even push on the fingers or not enough to make the clutch disc separate from the fly wheel. And as much as I hate to say it I think it's problem is on the hydraulic side.. what's crazy is that those master and slave cylinder have 0 miles on them and the pedal is hard and stiff like it should be. The last thing I'm gonna do before I put every thing back together is change the pilot bearing and re align the clutch disc. After that put it all back together , see what happens , if it's still the same Im going to buy the already bleed slave and master cylinder assembly. If that doesn't work then it's getting lit on fire lol.

 

I chased a disengagement problem on one of my cars. the new gm master cyl I bought failed immediately. if I recall correctly a factory crimp on it didn't get crimped well enough letting the rod and body move together, instead of the rod pushing against the body and moving independently. I chased this issue for weeks knowing that t56 were stubborn to bleed. two 5 second tack welds fixed it.

 

Maybe I'm missing something but is it possible to watch the fork move when the pedal is pushed,? If so I would have a helper push it and just watch what happens. have done a couple clutch jobs, on 60s car that didnt have hydraulics though. So I lean toward the hydraulics and if not that the pressure plate itself failed but before I replaced it I would want to watch if the throwout bearing is pushing the fingers in or not.

 

I mean the hole that the slave cylinder goes in too is not all that big, I guess I would be able to see if its moving, by not having it bolted in all the way, making the visibility even harder to see. I thought maybe the starter hole instead but the fly wheel covers up most of what would be visible. I mean like I said it broke the shipping straps on the slave so it is moving, but to what extent I am not sure.. I got the pressure plate off just now, clutch disc looks brand new, Inside of pressure plate contact surface also looks good too, pretty impressed to be honest with the quality, it was an Ebay stage 2 clutch, and with the power it puts down it really grabbed well. That's also why I am surprised that its having an issue.. Going to re align and install everything today hopefully if I have time and go from there.


Thanks for all the help and ideas guys I appreciate it!

 

I am sure you have done almost all of these steps but I'm still gonna list them. Start at the pedal assembly. Look for broke/ worn master cylinder rod. Leaking hydraulic line/ decreasing reservoir fluid. Is the slave cylinder bolted tight to the bell housing? (personally guilty of this one) As said earlier new hydraulics can be bad out of the box. On the trans side how does your pivot ball look? It should be a perfect dome no flat spot or pointy. How does the fork look where the throw out bearing rides? A few thousands of an inch on the fork side results in a greater pedal distance. Then move to the clutch assembly. If it was still in the jeep I would ask that you pump the clutch quickly a few times before going into gear. If it's easy to get in gear with 3 or 4 pumps it's usully air/bad seals.

 

I'll give the pumping method a shot once I get the trans back in, currently having trouble getting the input shaft to line up ,and slide in.. in the process I managed to dump all of the trans fluid all over me and then it fell on me , thank god it's not all that heavy. Not sure why bits giving me so much trouble now I've done 3 times before by myself , ran out of time today will try again either tonight or in the morning ..
Thanks again

 

Hey guys, sorry it has been a while but I finally got the ol turbo jeep back on the road! When reinstalling the trans I had issues with the alignment of the clutch disc, took it all off again re-aligned clutch disc to pressure plate. Trans slid right in this time, bolted it all together, felt clutch pedal same firm pedal. Turned on the jeep and it went right into gear like nothing ever happened... What the heck right?? Didnt even replace the slave or master, My conclusion to this issue was that the clutch disc stuck to either fly wheel or pressure plate not allowing it to stop spinning once the clutch pedal is pressed.. Just figured Id post this just in case any one has this issue with their jeeps.

Thanks again to everyone with their tips and suggestions. Sure am happy to have it back on the road again.