Im new to this forum, and i come looking for help.

I own a 2wd 2000 jeep XJ, 6 inch lift, 32" tsl super swamper radials with stock wheels.

I have heed these tires on a 3 inch lift for about 6 months(had the lift maybe a year), i recently went up three more inches(2 weeks ago), upgraded LCA's only, uppers stock.

I now have a issue with my camber, where as i didn't before the lift, i checked for play on the in the wheels when lift was installed.

i have brought it in for an alignment, camber is off by about -.9 degrees on each front wheel. i find it hard to believe these two numbers could be basically identical if it where worn ball joint or hub.

caster is obviously off due to the control arms, and the toe is perfect. if anyone has any ideas please let me know.

P.S. my toe is living proof of the measuring tape toe alignment, it near perfect

 

you need adjustable control arms. you want between 5 and 7 degrees of caster.

 

Maybe a drastic change in caster manipulated a already near out of tolerence camber?

 

I'm just wondering why lift a 2wd?

 

it's a solid axle - lifting it cannot change the camber of the wheels.

You're looking at either a bent knuckle, bent axle tube, or bad ball joints.



btw - I wanna see a picture of your 2wd lifted 6" from the front. That axle has to look pretty funny without the diff bulge.

 

Why lift a 2wd? I think a lifted cherokee looks good, and hope to convert it to 4wd later. I guess having a 2wd makes me some kind of poser around here, but whatever. Don't see how its relavent to my cambe issue.

Also, the fact that it off the same amount on both sides down to the tenth of a degree strikes me as odd, if it were caused by a worn suspension component or bent axle.

Thanks for the warm welcome, it appreciated and please excuse my grammar, I'm on a cellphone

 

I believe castor can affect the camber, being that the spindle does not pivot in a true verticle axis, if you have enough castor, you will start to change camber.

 

X2

 

see i think this is a possibility, the lowers being changed out and not the uppers effected the castor. this is the only thing that has changed in my alignment wise since the lift. i also did notice my tires sounded a tad bit louder afterwards, probably due to the tire sitting more on the "knobbies" of the tires.

i just don't wanna throw 100+ dollar uppers on then still have a camber issue, and still have to iron that out.

i guess i will buy uppers(which in reality only need to be 1/2 inch longer than stock), and before purchasing will double check for hub play, and ball joint play.

 

this will help with arm length issueshttp://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/..._Arm_Chart.htm

 

lol, i actually saved this chart of control arm lengths a while back.

but as i am reading more into alignment characteristics pertaining to camber/castor, castor angles only affect camber in turns, and not while the vehicle is static or not moving, like on an alignment rack.

so i am still confused as to why i would get a .9 degree camber on BOTH sides, if it were a hub/ball joint issue, or even bent axle. the axle would have to be bent PERFECTLY in the middle and evenly bent to the tenth of a degree to achieve a even amount of camber like this on both sides. and mechanical issues would have to be identical on both sides also.

 

also i am running lowers for up to a 4.5" lift, shouldn't this mean to get uppers for up to a 4.5" lift to bring the caster back in where it is supposed to be? if so, uppers for a 4.5" lift are stock length