I like to keep my interior as stock in appearance as possible. By that i mean that I don't necessarily have to keep everything as it was from the factor, but I do want it to look like it very well could have come from the factory that way. I like things to match. I just got in the mail a stock fog light switch since mine didn't have one originally.

I also am wanting to use the tansmission power/comfort switch location for a winch in/out button.

 

I wouldn't recommend that -- there are going to be times you're going to want to get out of the truck to winch.. I debated doing an in-cab button, but like the flexability of the plug-in switch. Warn's switch comes with at least a 6' cord ... I just wrap it up and store in the center console when not using .


Warn also has a wireless controller...

 

Yeah. I wasn't going to take the port for the wired remote switch out of the equation. I am just adding another hard mounted switch to the interior. Many folks have done this.

 

I don't see why you couldn't do both.

In regards to the lights, given the current draw, you wouldn't want to use a standard automotive relay (40A). Pick up something like this:
1-switch
1-relay

Batt+ (from batt directly or at fuse box) -> Relay Terminal 1, Relay Terminal 2 -> lights via inline fuse, Light ground to fame
Batt+ (Fused, tie into fuse at fuse box) -> SW1, SW2 -> Relay SW Terminal 1, Relay SW Terminal 2 -> GND

If you can't mount the relay super close to the battery/fuse box, use a 150A inline fuse between it and the battery.

Easy.

 

I think you could definitely use one switch for all relays. It only takes microamps to trigger a relay.

You're going to have a huge mess of wires under the hood. I really hope you know what you're doing when it comes to proper wire sizes, what fuses to use, and grounds.

Just for reference, I have a 136a alternator and 4awg wires with five 55w lights and I can hear the alternator strain when I turn those on.

I recommend you upgrade to 1awg wires and a 160a alternator.