What lift?
#1
What lift?
Hi guys,
I'm from Australia and own a xj. I'm looking at importing a full long arm kit of around 5-6 inches of lift.
Australian companies want way too much for very little gear so it's actually better to import from the states myself.
Which kit would you recommend for quality and price? Being all the way over here I don't want too many problems.
I was thinking if an iron rock off-road kit. Or a Clayton.
Is Clayton worth the extra $$?
Any others to consider?
I'm from Australia and own a xj. I'm looking at importing a full long arm kit of around 5-6 inches of lift.
Australian companies want way too much for very little gear so it's actually better to import from the states myself.
Which kit would you recommend for quality and price? Being all the way over here I don't want too many problems.
I was thinking if an iron rock off-road kit. Or a Clayton.
Is Clayton worth the extra $$?
Any others to consider?
#3
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I have run 2 Iron Rock long arm lifts on an XJ and a ZJ.. I have LOVED them both.. Very beefy.. The problem with IRO though is because of the drivers side Iron Y control arm, you are limited to keeping your Dana 30 (LP or HP) in the front. They do not make the Y to fit any other diffs. You can run whatever you want in the rear though. The clayton kits are NICE and allow the use of any types of front or rear diffs but for the money, I trust my Dana 30 in the front as I am not an extreme wheeler. The Dana 30 is plenty strong for anyhting up to 37" tires in my opion, especially trussed and sleeved.
#5
::CF Administrator::
Out of the two you have picked I would go with the Clayton. But for the price, with the overseas shipping, why not just get the tools you need and buy the materials, and make one yourself? Just a thought...
Never realized the laws were so strict over there...makes about zero sense when you have some of the roughest and harshest terrain of just about any other country in the world, LOL
Never realized the laws were so strict over there...makes about zero sense when you have some of the roughest and harshest terrain of just about any other country in the world, LOL
Last edited by Rogue4x4; 09-04-2014 at 10:21 AM.
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well IMHO you picked 2 of the better kits offered and I just went over all the details of each again, being I personally have owned neither one. I do know people that I 4 wheel with that have the Clayton and have looked at it installed on their XJ. It is a very nice HD kit and a long arm that quite few here run and are happy with.
FWIW I would choose the Clayton Long Arm as it seems to be a little more HD than the Iron Rock to me. The fact of where you are plays a role in what kit I choose and having to order parts if needed it just seemed a little less......maintenance required with it JMHO.
Always glad to hear from you fellows from "Down Under" and hear about your XJ's.
FWIW I would choose the Clayton Long Arm as it seems to be a little more HD than the Iron Rock to me. The fact of where you are plays a role in what kit I choose and having to order parts if needed it just seemed a little less......maintenance required with it JMHO.
Always glad to hear from you fellows from "Down Under" and hear about your XJ's.
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#8
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Isn't arb based in Australia? Seems kind of azz backwards to not be able to lift a rig but have one of the best traction control device manufacturers based there...
Back on topic I would go with Clayton. Heard nothing but great things about them
Back on topic I would go with Clayton. Heard nothing but great things about them
Last edited by 884x4; 09-04-2014 at 09:00 PM.
#11
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Model: Cherokee
Yeah aus is pretty strict when it comes to cars from licenses to modding one.Like if you make a car faster the brakes and suspension have to be upgraded.You pay more for your license plate and insurance if its modded also.
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have run 2 Iron Rock long arm lifts on an XJ and a ZJ.. I have LOVED them both.. Very beefy.. The problem with IRO though is because of the drivers side Iron Y control arm, you are limited to keeping your Dana 30 (LP or HP) in the front. They do not make the Y to fit any other diffs. You can run whatever you want in the rear though. The clayton kits are NICE and allow the use of any types of front or rear diffs but for the money, I trust my Dana 30 in the front as I am not an extreme wheeler. The Dana 30 is plenty strong for anyhting up to 37" tires in my opion, especially trussed and sleeved.
#14
All Arb do is expensive 2 inch lifts lol
#15
Out of the two you have picked I would go with the Clayton. But for the price, with the overseas shipping, why not just get the tools you need and buy the materials, and make one yourself? Just a thought... Never realized the laws were so strict over there...makes about zero sense when you have some of the roughest and harshest terrain of just about any other country in the world, LOL