well I started doing my lift... it was going well then BAM!
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
well I started doing my lift... it was going well then BAM!
questions at the bottoms
well all the bolts came off easy, sway bar (in the trash), axle u bolts...
then I removed the shocks bolts... WTF broke all 4, so I had to pull up the carpet and cut open access to the shock mounts... plan to fill in the area with expand-a-foam, found some minor rust in the cargo area...almost nothing... also found where it was coming from, small rust hole was letting water in under the carpet...
then the rear eye on the drivers side leaf came out fine, BUT U need to drop the tow hitch...
then I tried to remove the drivers side rear leave front eye bolt... it is stuck to the sleeve... I broke out the handy dandy angle grinder
Q1: I know at 3" I do not really need to mess with the upper control arms... however... how far do I need to SHIM the lower control arms?
Q2: How can I stop the bolts from getting stuck inside the sleeves?
update and pics in the morning
well all the bolts came off easy, sway bar (in the trash), axle u bolts...
then I removed the shocks bolts... WTF broke all 4, so I had to pull up the carpet and cut open access to the shock mounts... plan to fill in the area with expand-a-foam, found some minor rust in the cargo area...almost nothing... also found where it was coming from, small rust hole was letting water in under the carpet...
then the rear eye on the drivers side leaf came out fine, BUT U need to drop the tow hitch...
then I tried to remove the drivers side rear leave front eye bolt... it is stuck to the sleeve... I broke out the handy dandy angle grinder
Q1: I know at 3" I do not really need to mess with the upper control arms... however... how far do I need to SHIM the lower control arms?
Q2: How can I stop the bolts from getting stuck inside the sleeves?
update and pics in the morning
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
q1, probably dont need to. I bought my xj with basically 4.5" and it had stock CA's
q2, anti-sieze. buy a big bottle for a few bucks. dont waste time with the 99 cent packets.
q2, anti-sieze. buy a big bottle for a few bucks. dont waste time with the 99 cent packets.
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Penetrating oil will help with the bolts sticking to the sleeves. Like liquid wrench or pb blaster. Seafoam has a new penetrating oil might give that a try too. Spray it on and let it sit for a while. Like a day or longer for better results
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Year: 2000
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didnt work on mine at all sadly. It just had to be the last control arm bolt that had to be siezed. I tried plenty of pb blaster, a BFH, a ball joint press rigged up to push the bolt out with an impact, and a combination of the above things with mapp gas. Had no luck and it was 2 days before my wheeling trip lol. Oh well, use a sawzall and got a new bolt the next morning.
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah my first build involved a lot of heat and cutting.
Q1--- Are you taking it to an alignment shop after your install? If you do ask to see what your caster angle is at. I think spec is 7*. At 3" you may not need to mess with the caster shims.
Q2--- I use anti seize. Days before I hit the trail I usually run the leaf bolts out then torque them in. Just part of my check list and to make sure those bolts move.
Q1--- Are you taking it to an alignment shop after your install? If you do ask to see what your caster angle is at. I think spec is 7*. At 3" you may not need to mess with the caster shims.
Q2--- I use anti seize. Days before I hit the trail I usually run the leaf bolts out then torque them in. Just part of my check list and to make sure those bolts move.
#7
q2 aaaaa spray and work bolt back and forth out and in out and in out and in until ur arm burns and u loose 20 pounds. or cut open with grinder (scrappin main leaf) and air chisel on bushing slit
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Year: 1996
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just got a set of JK Rubicon shocks and springs with only 16k miles on them... I have no use for the springs... but now I have almost brand new shocks
only paid $35 for everything
only paid $35 for everything
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
got the rear finished...
3" lift springs installed
axle shims installed
rear sway bar removed
JK rubicon rear shocks modified and installed
compressed and extended the suspension several times... sitting around 21" hub to bottom of fender flare... so should settle a little more as I start driving it
tomorrow we install the front...
before
after
3" lift springs installed
axle shims installed
rear sway bar removed
JK rubicon rear shocks modified and installed
compressed and extended the suspension several times... sitting around 21" hub to bottom of fender flare... so should settle a little more as I start driving it
tomorrow we install the front...
before
after
#10
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
why is the sway bar in the trash???? for $50 a set of rough country quick disco's make it much nicer to drive!!! i know i'm gonna get the wrath of the no swaybar folks but it is there for a reason...
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
i drive mine everyday to work and at highway speeds it's drivable but i wouldn't want to have to avoid something....just saying for $50 i'll disconnect it before i go wheeling..i like my truck to take an off ramp at 50mph without feeling like you are going out the window.. they are a safety device and do make the truck far more stable.. one wrong move and you get a good look at the driveline
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO 242
[QUOTE=ericfx1984;832815]got the rear finished...
3" lift springs installed
axle shims installed
rear sway bar removed
JK rubicon rear shocks modified and installed
He did say that it was only the rear sway bar
3" lift springs installed
axle shims installed
rear sway bar removed
JK rubicon rear shocks modified and installed
He did say that it was only the rear sway bar