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well I started doing my lift... it was going well then BAM!

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Old 01-26-2011, 12:15 AM
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Default well I started doing my lift... it was going well then BAM!

questions at the bottoms


well all the bolts came off easy, sway bar (in the trash), axle u bolts...

then I removed the shocks bolts... WTF broke all 4, so I had to pull up the carpet and cut open access to the shock mounts... plan to fill in the area with expand-a-foam, found some minor rust in the cargo area...almost nothing... also found where it was coming from, small rust hole was letting water in under the carpet...

then the rear eye on the drivers side leaf came out fine, BUT U need to drop the tow hitch...

then I tried to remove the drivers side rear leave front eye bolt... it is stuck to the sleeve... I broke out the handy dandy angle grinder


Q1: I know at 3" I do not really need to mess with the upper control arms... however... how far do I need to SHIM the lower control arms?

Q2: How can I stop the bolts from getting stuck inside the sleeves?

update and pics in the morning
Old 01-26-2011, 12:26 AM
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q1, probably dont need to. I bought my xj with basically 4.5" and it had stock CA's
q2, anti-sieze. buy a big bottle for a few bucks. dont waste time with the 99 cent packets.
Old 01-26-2011, 12:33 AM
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Penetrating oil will help with the bolts sticking to the sleeves. Like liquid wrench or pb blaster. Seafoam has a new penetrating oil might give that a try too. Spray it on and let it sit for a while. Like a day or longer for better results
Old 01-26-2011, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by krawlthis
Penetrating oil will help with the bolts sticking to the sleeves. Like liquid wrench or pb blaster. Seafoam has a new penetrating oil might give that a try too. Spray it on and let it sit for a while. Like a day or longer for better results
didnt work on mine at all sadly. It just had to be the last control arm bolt that had to be siezed. I tried plenty of pb blaster, a BFH, a ball joint press rigged up to push the bolt out with an impact, and a combination of the above things with mapp gas. Had no luck and it was 2 days before my wheeling trip lol. Oh well, use a sawzall and got a new bolt the next morning.
Old 01-26-2011, 07:07 PM
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had to cut out the other side too... man this thing has been a PITA
Old 01-26-2011, 07:43 PM
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Yeah my first build involved a lot of heat and cutting.

Q1--- Are you taking it to an alignment shop after your install? If you do ask to see what your caster angle is at. I think spec is 7*. At 3" you may not need to mess with the caster shims.

Q2--- I use anti seize. Days before I hit the trail I usually run the leaf bolts out then torque them in. Just part of my check list and to make sure those bolts move.
Old 01-26-2011, 07:52 PM
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q2 aaaaa spray and work bolt back and forth out and in out and in out and in until ur arm burns and u loose 20 pounds. or cut open with grinder (scrappin main leaf) and air chisel on bushing slit
Old 01-27-2011, 12:17 PM
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just got a set of JK Rubicon shocks and springs with only 16k miles on them... I have no use for the springs... but now I have almost brand new shocks

only paid $35 for everything
Old 01-27-2011, 05:12 PM
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got the rear finished...

3" lift springs installed

axle shims installed

rear sway bar removed

JK rubicon rear shocks modified and installed

compressed and extended the suspension several times... sitting around 21" hub to bottom of fender flare... so should settle a little more as I start driving it



tomorrow we install the front...

before




after

Old 01-27-2011, 06:39 PM
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why is the sway bar in the trash???? for $50 a set of rough country quick disco's make it much nicer to drive!!! i know i'm gonna get the wrath of the no swaybar folks but it is there for a reason...
Old 01-27-2011, 07:18 PM
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Honestly, unless your taking turns and cornering at high speeds, those dumb old things dont help with squat...unless you just like to drive fast
Old 01-27-2011, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by clacker
Honestly, unless your taking turns and cornering at high speeds, those dumb old things dont help with squat...unless you just like to drive fast
i drive mine everyday to work and at highway speeds it's drivable but i wouldn't want to have to avoid something....just saying for $50 i'll disconnect it before i go wheeling..i like my truck to take an off ramp at 50mph without feeling like you are going out the window.. they are a safety device and do make the truck far more stable.. one wrong move and you get a good look at the driveline
Old 01-27-2011, 08:01 PM
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the rear sway bar really doesn't do much
Old 01-27-2011, 08:03 PM
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maybe he meant rear sway bar?
Old 01-27-2011, 09:35 PM
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[QUOTE=ericfx1984;832815]got the rear finished...

3" lift springs installed

axle shims installed

rear sway bar removed

JK rubicon rear shocks modified and installed



He did say that it was only the rear sway bar


Quick Reply: well I started doing my lift... it was going well then BAM!



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