want to add a inch
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Mines all rubicon as well. You could do like me and throw 3/4 spacers up front and lift shackles in the back. You could also use an add a leaf. I know everyone's gonna rape me for this but I would add 3/4 inch blocks in the back. I ran em for a while and didn't have any problems with axle wrap. Might worry about it with larger blocks but you can definitely run 3/4 without issues. I think 3/4 might do it for ya if u don't wanna trim.
Last edited by Slick761; Mar 20, 2013 at 07:33 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
P.s. blocks are cheapest but like I said 3/4- maybe 1" is as big as I would go. Also make sure ur brake lines still have plenty of xtra, especially the rear, if it is too short swap it with one from a yj. Finally if you put spacers up front you can add shims to the lower control arms to help fix the caster. I added shims to mine. U can make em or buy em from.... Oh crap I can't think of the place right now.... If you wanna go that route let me know and ill explain how to set up the caster/pinion angle etc.
Last edited by Slick761; Mar 20, 2013 at 07:49 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
U know that to get 3/4 inch lift with a shackle you have to use a shackle that is 1.5 inches longrr then stock right? The thing I don't like about shackle lifts is that they change your pinion angle. Do you have a slip yoke eliminator? If you so you want the pinion pointed at the output shaft on the transfer case. If not you want the pinion slightly lower then parallel to the output on the transfer case. You can use shackles but either way you will need degree shims to set up the pinion angle. Again let me know and I will explain the procedure for setting front and rear pinion angles.
Last edited by Slick761; Mar 20, 2013 at 11:26 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Ok... I actually know a good website that explains it with pictures and everything. That will probably be more beneficial then me just trying to explain with words. When I get home from work tonight I will find the url and post it for you.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
There we go http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm
Use an angle finder to get the pinion angle and use the chart on the website for front caster. For rear use an angle finder to match the angle of the output on t-case to the rear pinion (slip yoke) or use it to point the rear pinion at the t-case output (double cardan) in both cases you want the rear pinion a touch low to compensate for axle wrap on acceleration.
Use an angle finder to get the pinion angle and use the chart on the website for front caster. For rear use an angle finder to match the angle of the output on t-case to the rear pinion (slip yoke) or use it to point the rear pinion at the t-case output (double cardan) in both cases you want the rear pinion a touch low to compensate for axle wrap on acceleration.
Last edited by Slick761; Apr 10, 2013 at 08:41 PM.
Just throwing this out there, but why not just do a little trimming and/or bumpstop it, and leave it at 3.5"? If you add another inch, and still dont trim or bumpstop it, you can still rub, because you'll still have the same amout of suspension travel, and when you flex the tires can still get stuffed up into the fenders.
Just my 2 cents worth, but I'd do things to prevent the rubbing instead of just lifting it more.
Just my 2 cents worth, but I'd do things to prevent the rubbing instead of just lifting it more.
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