Vinyl Flooring Installation
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Vinyl Flooring Installation
So I finally decided to buy a vinyl floor for my 96 Cherokee. It said 4 Door Exc. Sport but I had no idea what that meant since all of the styles had the same floor plan. I guess they meant it didn't fit 2 doors.
1) The kit comes with some padding for front seat floor, back seat floor and trunk area. The flooring is 2 sheets of thick, textured vinyl without any cutouts and it is oversized (on purpose so you can trim it).
Here's the trunk piece. Its slightly molded.
2) After removing the original carpet, I laid down the padding. The front piece had a cutout for the shifter but I had to make a cutout for the transfer case shifter. I also cut out some diamonds for the rear piece so it would fit better.
3) I laid the original carpet on top of the vinyl piece to layout where I would make my cuts. I used the rear seat molding as a guide since it lays rather flat and is overcut.
4) I did the installation solo but I don't recommend it as it took some effort in the Georgia heat to do it myself. I had to constantly trim off from the top of the front piece until it would go all the way up. Then I trimmed the passenger side and installed the plastic side pieces, the seat belt and then the seat. The console was next and then I worked on the driver's side. It smoothed out as I installed the seats and trim but between the rear seat floor it never smoothed out. I guess heat and time might mold that down. Also, the floor mats serve to smooth out the front footwells (you see what they look like without the mats) and I expect that they will relax over time.
I'll tackle the trunk tomorrow. Its too hot right now to continue.
Would I do it again? Well my Jeep was only $500. The carpet smelled like mildew and after I pulled it I could smell cat ****. I would do it again but I would enlist my wife to help for sure.
1) The kit comes with some padding for front seat floor, back seat floor and trunk area. The flooring is 2 sheets of thick, textured vinyl without any cutouts and it is oversized (on purpose so you can trim it).
Here's the trunk piece. Its slightly molded.
2) After removing the original carpet, I laid down the padding. The front piece had a cutout for the shifter but I had to make a cutout for the transfer case shifter. I also cut out some diamonds for the rear piece so it would fit better.
3) I laid the original carpet on top of the vinyl piece to layout where I would make my cuts. I used the rear seat molding as a guide since it lays rather flat and is overcut.
4) I did the installation solo but I don't recommend it as it took some effort in the Georgia heat to do it myself. I had to constantly trim off from the top of the front piece until it would go all the way up. Then I trimmed the passenger side and installed the plastic side pieces, the seat belt and then the seat. The console was next and then I worked on the driver's side. It smoothed out as I installed the seats and trim but between the rear seat floor it never smoothed out. I guess heat and time might mold that down. Also, the floor mats serve to smooth out the front footwells (you see what they look like without the mats) and I expect that they will relax over time.
I'll tackle the trunk tomorrow. Its too hot right now to continue.
Would I do it again? Well my Jeep was only $500. The carpet smelled like mildew and after I pulled it I could smell cat ****. I would do it again but I would enlist my wife to help for sure.
#6
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well being in Georgia, wet carpet never dries out here either.
The reason is that I wanted something that won't stain and is easy to wipe down. My friend had a Ramcharger with vinyl flooring. I always liked it and the interior looked a lot cleaner.
My next step is to get something better than the WalMart floor mats.
The reason is that I wanted something that won't stain and is easy to wipe down. My friend had a Ramcharger with vinyl flooring. I always liked it and the interior looked a lot cleaner.
My next step is to get something better than the WalMart floor mats.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I get that but a good set of floor mats will handle that and keep everything contained in them. The carpet is quite easy to clean if you pull it out once in a while and pressure wash it and dry. Along with the fact of it being quiet and turns more heat with the pad than the other does. I noticed on the OP pics that his floors looked very good, no rust.
I had this happen on a farm truck I had a 4x4 3/4 ton with them the floor rusted out, but I never pulled them out to dry either and that truck fought the was for over 20 yrs but the floor was the only rusted area.
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#8
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I bet a heat gun and a wallpaper roller will get those remaining folds out-
just a suggestion- you may have already tried that route
Looks good
just a suggestion- you may have already tried that route
Looks good
#10
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 2.5L MFI
Finally! Someone that has installed this stuff and described it in detail! Subscribed, an dido on the heat and roller, that would definatley help. Also, take it on a a 30 min drive and let the trans tunnel get nice and toasty. That should make it settle
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So its been a while since I did this. Wanted to follow up with some thoughts.
1) If you want it as quiet as the carpet, you need extra insulation than what comes with the kit
2) Don't be overzealous in cutting the vinyl like I was. At the bottom rear seat cushion on the pass side there is a fold that was caused by my rushing the job. (in other words, don't do this in 102 deg Georgia heat, even in the garage its hot)
3) Wrinkles won't work themselves out over time so you need to use adhesive to make it stick. For me to do this I would need to remove everything again so I am letting it go as it is good enough for me for now.
4) It is very easy to keep clean. When you wear combat boots everyday as I do, floor mats haven't been cutting it.
5) Water. My Jeep gets poured on by the sprinkler system every day. Lucky I don't have any leaks. I need to check though to ensure the Southern humidity isn't causing moisture to form under the vinyl. After the summer heat passes, I'll pull the vinyl completely out to check. I will also adhere key areas (Tranny hump) but leave enough free to check periodically. If it is storing a small amount of moisture, I'll just keep some Camp Dry in the Jeep otherwise I will need to make a vapor cutout or two.
6) Would I do it again. Yes. The vinyl is durable. I hate cleaning carpets and I hate lingering smells. I would love to make the seats vinyl if I could keep them cool in the summer sun.
1) If you want it as quiet as the carpet, you need extra insulation than what comes with the kit
2) Don't be overzealous in cutting the vinyl like I was. At the bottom rear seat cushion on the pass side there is a fold that was caused by my rushing the job. (in other words, don't do this in 102 deg Georgia heat, even in the garage its hot)
3) Wrinkles won't work themselves out over time so you need to use adhesive to make it stick. For me to do this I would need to remove everything again so I am letting it go as it is good enough for me for now.
4) It is very easy to keep clean. When you wear combat boots everyday as I do, floor mats haven't been cutting it.
5) Water. My Jeep gets poured on by the sprinkler system every day. Lucky I don't have any leaks. I need to check though to ensure the Southern humidity isn't causing moisture to form under the vinyl. After the summer heat passes, I'll pull the vinyl completely out to check. I will also adhere key areas (Tranny hump) but leave enough free to check periodically. If it is storing a small amount of moisture, I'll just keep some Camp Dry in the Jeep otherwise I will need to make a vapor cutout or two.
6) Would I do it again. Yes. The vinyl is durable. I hate cleaning carpets and I hate lingering smells. I would love to make the seats vinyl if I could keep them cool in the summer sun.
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