i just started drivin my 2000 cherokee after doin a RC 3inch lift and now i have a small vibration at 35mph only under throttle. i replaced the u joints on the rear shaft thinkin that was the problem but it didnt do a damn thing. also as i switched lanes today my jeep decided to shake VERY violently. what would cause that. i stillhave stock tires on it also... please help guys.

driveline angle (rear driveshaft) on vibration more than likely, as for violent shaking...the most likely culprit is tracbar if your lift used a relocating bracket make sure the bolts are tight and loctite them.

The vibration at 35mph sounds like drive line vibes, you will need a sye or a t-case drop. So far as shaking violently during lane change, sounds like the steering angles up front are out of whack somewhere. Did you swap out the trackbar with an adjustable one or relocate the stock one? More info on the violent shaking would be helpful in helping diagnose the problem further.

i didnt do anything with the steering. all i did was undo the front sway bar while i was installin my lift and i put it back on. the lift kit was just coils, shocks, and add a leaf.

Well at 3" of lift you need to at least adjust the trackbar or your axle will not be centered. Also when lifting any vehicle every component up front must be in good condition, if not problems will show up real quick. Is the shake more in your seat or the steering wheel?

I have a 4.5" rough country and I haven't had this prob. Dont get a t case drop if you plan on 4 wheeling. Very bad idea. Get a slip yoke eliminator best thing you could do. And back to the vibs, it prolly has to do with the trac bar

I agree, but if money is tight a t-case drop is a temporary fix. A sye is the way to go, unless you like replacing u-joints every 6-8 months which is not much fun. Although I know a bunch of people on here will tell you they run a t-case drop and have never had any issues. Every xj is different I suppose.

That's true but I guess it also depend on if you have a HP or LP rear end. Personally I don't want to move the t case from it's factory spot unless I got a better one that requires some tweaking

Front diff's are HP(00+) and LP, not rear diff's.

**** I sounded like a noob. I meant front end lol my bad

Check alignment. I had the same problem and all I ended up having to do was adjust my tie rod

did you get it alligned after you did the lift?

you should be able to use the stock tb at only a 3" lift

also did you go full pack or just aal, if did a full pack usually takes a few weeks for the springs to drop down to the 3"

alignment is definately called for if over 1.5 inch lift... but i just had the same problem.. a tc drop is needed.. until u can afford a sye or hack n tap...

go to lowes and get some 1" square tubing. drop the transfer case crossmember. cut a piece of tube to length and drill holes thru . remove the factory stud from the unibody, and bolt the spacer between the frame and crossmember with new grade 5 or better hardware...

Hmm.... Check this out brotha. http://www.truehi9.com/index.html

I believe he was referring to a factory set up...